南華大學數位論文

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1 THESIS FOR THE DEGREE OF SOCIOLOGY NAN HUA UNIVERSITY THE CHANGE OF SEX OCCUPATIONAL SEGREGATION A CASE STUDY ON COSMETICIANS GRADUATE STUDENTYANG CHUNG-HUA ADVISTORPH.D. YANG CHING-LI

5 Title of ThesisThe Change of Sex Occupational SegregationA Case Study on Cosmeticians Name of InstituteSociology, Nan Hua University Graduate datejune 2003 Name of studentyang Chung-Hua Degree ConferredM.S. AdvisorPh.D. Yang Ching-Li Abstract Due to inherence of sex and cultural construction of gender. Men and women usually voluntarily or compulsorily choose jobs embedded to gender-stereotype. Those choices has not only enforced the gender-stereotype in labor force market but also created occupational segregation. Nowadays, there are more and more people participating jobs against gender-stereotype: not only for women s selection on men s job, inverse trend also sparkled in recent years. In the past, most related studies focused on female workers experiences of entering men s work. This thesis discusses the contrary path: men goes into women s work. A case study of cosmetician is presented. Three questions are answered by this thesis: (1) How male cosmeticians influence the content of the job? (2) Would the entrance of male cosmeticians create more hierarchic positions and occupy the higher position? (3) What are the challenges and adaptive strategies for male cosmeticians? This issue discuses former topics by qualitative research method. And we try to understand the options that malesfemalescorporations and customers have. We mainly use in-deep interview and use second data as the collection method. The Result shows that the change of the conservative notion and the enlightenment of the community. Furthermore there are more and more styles of cosmetics came from Europe and America. That not only increases the working opportunities for males but also makes more males entering the cosmetic occupation. Because male cosmeticians just emerge these years, it doesn t cause notable effects on the cosmetic ecological field. And there are no signs show that males entering the cosmetic occupation can raise the occupational prestige or make occupation

6 revaluation. But this phenomenon still causes two effects. One is de-femininity. That reverses the idea of occupational sex labeling; another is good competition. That offers the stimulations to females. Besides, there are three motivations for males to devote themselves to the job. First, interest the main reason male cosmeticians entry the work. Second, personal characteristic which the condition they wants. Last but not least, the change of occupational structure and older social opinions. After entering the cosmetics occupation, males don t get better treatment not only on their job content but wage. But, the gender makes them catch customers attention easily. Entirely, customers accept the male cosmeticians easily but it differences by area or age. At the same time, we saw the male cosmeticians have followers. This differs from female. There still are some embarrassing situations. For instance, female feels embarrass because of their service. Although the gender brings some advantages or shortcomings, they still work on it by job satisfaction and fulfillment. Totally, effects of structural factors and occupational achievements on the cosmetic occupation aren t very large; the personal characteristic is the main factor. Keywordsgender-stereotypesex occupational segregationthe choice of non-traditional occupationscosmeticians

10 gender-stereotype Bradley ReskinPadavic Hayghe sex occupational segregation male-dominated occupations female-dominated occupations Coventry Coventry199950

11 Jacobs cosmeticians 1 index of sex occupational segregation n S 1/2 M I F i i =1 n M I i F i i

12 3 (induction) (statistical) (quantitative)

13 snow ball bbs post , , , , , , , , , p.541

14 bbs A A A A A A A

15 6 1.3 B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 * C1 C2 C3 1.5 D1 25 D2 25

16 7

17 8 2 EL bobbi brown CDM.A.COriginsX.A.CSisley Sonia Rykiel

18 9 Bradley Reskin and Padavic Bradley Bradley Bradley

19 Bradley Clark and Ehrenreich Bradley (sex occupational segregation)

20 11 Birkelund Watts Jacobs1989Coventry1999 Reskin( ) sex labeling male-dominated occupations female-dominated occupations neutral-dominated occupations devalue dual labor market theory Anker horizontal segregation vertical segregation Anker

21 12 gender theory human capital theory market discrimination Olson1990Anker1997 gender sex gender

22 Wood Wood

23 14 Anker Cejka and Eagly1999 Anker

24 Wood1999 occupational gender-stereotyping Gatton Dubois and Faley Pierre HerendeenMooreNagle1994GattonDuboisFaley1999 / GattonDuboisFaley

25 statistical discrimination Olson group data 4 rationally Olson / theory of gender organization GattonDubois and Faley / 4 group data Paulette Olson1990

26 Jacobs Reskin Jacobs Jacobsen Greenwood Coventry Rosenfeld and Spenner1992Coventry1999 Rosenfeld and Spenner masculinity image Bradley

27 Jacobsen1994 Woodland1995Lazarsky1999Glass Bradley infiltration 5 invasion 6 takeover 7 5 infiltration 6 invasion 7 takeover

28 19 Bradley1993William GDP GDP GDP

30 21

31 22 MISASA KANEBO SHISEDO SHU UEMURA IPSA KOSE CLARINS YSL GIVENCHY CARITA BIOTHERM HR LANCOME ORLANE GUERLAIN CHANEL ELIZABETH ARDEN CLINQUE BORGHESE ESTEE LAUDER BOBBI BROWN M.A.C. ORIGINS X.A.C CHRISTIAN DIOR SISLEY SONIA RYKIEL MAX. FACTOR

32 23 Bobbi Brown ESTEE LAUDER M.A.C. Christian Dior

33 Total Total Total

34 SONIA RYKIEL CHRISTIAN DIOR X.A.C 1 2 BOBBI BROWN M.A.C / 1. X.A.C/ 2 2. ESTEE LAUDER 7 3. BOBBI BROWN M.A.C./ ORIGINS 1 6. SISLEY 3 7. SONIA RYKIEL 8. CHRISTIAN DIOR 1 1

35 B1 B

36 27 20 B1 A2

37 28 B2

38 D2 A3

39 30 B3

40 31

41 B1 B4

42 33 40

43 34 B8

44 35 Bradley infiltration invasion takeover Bradley Bradley

45 36

46 37

47 38 D1 D2

48 39 11 A Cejka Eagly

49 40 A7 12 B1 12

50 A2

51 42 A2 A4 A4 A2 A7

52 43 B4 B4 B2

53 44 B1

54 45 B1 B1 Truss Goffee Jones

55 46 13 A3 A5 13 line staff 19955

56 47 A3 A1 A1 B2 /

57 48

58 49 B B2 B3 B2

59 50 SHISEDO KANEBO SISLEY MAX FACTOR ESTEE LAUDER BOBBI BROWN M.A.C. 14

60 51 the choice of nontraditional occupation D1

61 52 D2 D

62 53 B1 A3 A3

63 54 D2 1

64 55 2 A5 D1

65 56

66 A3 A3

67 58 A5

68 Bradley invasion takeover

69 60

72 63

73 64

74 / p

75 () Anker, Richard 1997 Theories of occupational segregation by sex: an overview, International Labour Review, 1363, p Birkelund, Gunn Elisabeth 1992 Stratification and segregation, Acta Sociologica, 351, p Bradley, Harriet 1989 Men s workwomen s work, Polity Press Across the Great DivideThe Entry of Into Women s Job, In C.L. WILLIAMS (Ed.), Doing Women s Work : Men in Nontraditional Occupations, p10-27, Newbury Park, CA: Sage Publications.

76 67 Cejka, Mary Ann and Eagly, Alice H Gender-stereotypic images of occupations correspond to the sex segregation of employment, Personality and Social Psychology, 254, p Coventry, Barbara Thomas 1999Do Men Leave Feminizing Occupations, Social Science Journal, 361, p Gatton, D. S, Dubois, C. L. Z, Faley, R. H 1999 The Effects of Organizational Context on Occupational Glass, Jennifer Gender-Stereotyping, Sex Roles, 40, p The Impact of Occupational Segregation on Working Conditions, Social Forces, 683, p Greenwood, Adriana Mata 1999 Gender and jobs: Sex segregation of occupations in the world, Hayghe, H. V International Labour Review, 1383, p Women s Labor Force Participation, Family Economics and Nutrition Jacobs, Jerry A Review, 114, p Long-Term Trends in Occupational Segregation by Sex, The American Jacobsen, Joyce P Journal of Sociology, 951, p Sex segregation at work: Trends and predictions, Social Science Journal, Lazarsky, Mary G. H. 312, p Men s Work,Women Work : A Sociological History of the Sexual Olson, Paulette Division of Labour in Employment, Labor Studies Journal, p The Persistence of Occupational Segregation: A Critique of Its Theoretical Underpinnings, Journal of Economic Issues, 241, p

77 68 Pierre, R., St. Herendeen, N. M., Moore, D. S. Nagle, A. M Does occupational stereotyping still exist, The Journal of Psychology, 128, p Reskin, Barbara 1993 Sex segregation in the workplace, Annual Review of Sociology,19, p Reskin, B and Padavic, I Women and Men at Work. Thousand Oak: Pine Forge Press. Rosenfeld, Rachel A. and Spenner, Kenneth I 1992 Occupational Sex Segregation and Women's Early Career Job Shifts, Work and Occupations, 194p Truss, CatherineGoffee, Robert and Jones, Gareth 1995 Segregation Occupations and Gender StereotypingA Study of Secretarial Work in Europe, Human Relations, 4811, p Watts, Martin 1998 Occupational gender segregation: Index measurement and econometric modeling, Demography, 354, p William, C.L Doing Women s Work: Men in Traditional Occupations, Newbury Park, CA:Sage Publications. Wood, Clare 1999 Gender and Choice in Education and Occupation, Gender and Education,113, p Woodland, Stephen 1995 Gender Segregation and Social Change: Men and Women in Changing Labour Markets, British Journal of Industrial Relations, 334, p

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