31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page (Costume Institute

page. 39 Chu Chi-jung Assistant Professor, Graduate Institute of Museum Studies, Fu Jen Catholic University

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 40 2015 (Costume Institute

page. 41 Abstract The Metropolitan Museum of Art s spring exhibition of 2015, China: through the Looking Glass, drew a record number of visitors to the Costume Institute and became the fifth most popular exhibition in the museum s history. Met Gala, the fundraising event designated to benefit the fashion exhibition, also attracted considerable media attention and raised a significant amount in donations to the museum. China: Through the Looking Glasss, an exhibition resulting from a collaboration between the Asian Department and the Costume Institute, was the first at the Institute to combine fashion, film and art in a single exhibition. It presented how, in their creative processes, Western designers were inspired by Chinese aesthetics. How was the exhibition presented, and what issues arose out of the exhibition? Through materials from the museum s website, media reviews, fashion literature, audience responses, and the author s own observation, this article discusses several inter-related issues including the curatorial ideas, exhibition design, the promotion of the exhibition, the ethical dilemma involved in fashion exhibitions, and critiques from the audience. This article concludes that, with abundant resources, the exhibition constructed a succinct curatorial statement. Together with a design team consisting of talents from various fields especially the film industry the exhibition created an unprecedented on site visual experience and established a new milestone in exhibition design. However, the dynamic between the museum and its sponsors, and the ethical issues involved in fashion exhibitions, remains contested. Keywords: curatorial study, exhibition design, fashion exhibitions, museum ethics

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 42 Costume Institute CI (Asian Department) (China: through the Looking Glass) 2014 5 8 16 9815,992 2011 (Savage Beauty) 661,509 (The Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015) CI (Anna Wintour Costume Center) 14 30,000 (Associated Press 2015) (object-based) Wow, Amazing Instagram Pinterest (Friedman 2015)

page. 43 2013 Pinterest Instagram Youtube CI (Andrew Bolton) (Art director) (Michael Hearn)

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 44 CI (Harold Koda) Toward an Aesthetic of Surfaces (Bolton, 2015) (Adam Geczy) A Chamber of Whispers (Geczy, 2015) 1994 (Orientalism) (Richard Martin) 1994 (Edward Said) (trans-orientalism) (fantasy) (Empire of Signs) 11 1 1 1 China: Through the Looking Glasss (illusionary) Through the Looking-Glass, 1 http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2015/china-through-the-looking-glass/exhibition-galleries 2015.8.20

page. 45 1 1 1 980 Manchu Robe 2 981 Hu Die (Butterfly Wu) 3 132 People's Republic of China 4 209 Anna May Wong 5 217 Moon in the Water 6 218 Ming Furniture 7 215, 216 Export Silk 8 214 Calligraphy 9 213 Blue-and-White Porcelain 10 211, 212 Perfume 11 210 Saint Laurent & Opium, Chinoiserie 12 207 Ancient China 13 208 Guo Pei 14 206 Wuxia

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 46 and What Alice Found There 1871 Alice s Adventures in Wonderland 1865 (looking glass) (fantasy world) (ephemeral) (illusionary) 14 (Manchu Robe) 981 (Bernardo Bertolucci) (The Last Emperor) 2 3 wow amazing (Jeppe Hein) 2 2 Rotating views (Bolton, 21 June 2015) http:// www.jeppehein.net/pages/project_id.php?path=works&id=202 2015.8.20

page. 47 2 3

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 48 (through the looking glass) Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations (Stephen Jones) CI 12 (production designer) (Nathan Crowley) Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy 2008 American Woman Fashioning a National Identity 2010 2012 3 3 Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2012

page. 49 4 5 (1) (2) (Diana Vreeland) 4

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 50 5 CI 2004 ( Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century ) 2006 ( Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion ) 2016 CI (Pogrebin & Trebay 2015) 132 1949 (Mao suit) 6

page. 51 6 11 (James Turrell) (minimal) 4 7 4 (Quaker) (sitespecific projects) 2013 http://web.guggenheim.org/exhibitions/ turrell/ 2015.11.14

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 52 7 8

page. 53 (Astor Court) (Ming Court) (Galliano) (Valentino) (Moon in Water) 8 9 9

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 54 Sackler Room 206 10 11 10 11

page. 55 20 Anna May Wong 12 13 CI (Imagineering) (Imagineering showmanship)(pogrebin & Trebay 2015) 1972 CI CI CI 5 (Thomas Hoving) 1972 CI 5Silverman 1980 Bloomingdale Koda Martin Diana Vreeland: Immoderate Style Silverman (Martin & Koda, 1993, 23-24)

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 56 12 (Koda & Glasscock 2014: 27) 6 (J. Taylor 1989) 7 8 CI 6 CI (Stella Blum) 1980 (Palmer, 2008) 7 (Temple of Dendur) (Sackler Wing) (Lipsky-Karasz, 2009) 8 Koda & Glasscock, 2014, 27-29

page. 57 13 (imagination) (simplified) (reductionist) (What is real)

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 58 9 (Valery Steele) (Steele 2013) 10 (study area) (F. Anderson 2000) (Fashion Theory) (2008) Museums as Fashion Media 9 (Institute of Fine Art) (2015.8.31) 10

page. 59 3 1990 (images) Museum Quality: The Rise of the Fashion Exhibition 2014 Fashion and Museums: Theory and Practice (M. R. Melchior 2014) (fashion museology) 11 (2014) (Peter Vergo) (dress museology) (dress) (Melchior 2014: 12) 11 (high art) (Taylor. 2005)

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 60 (Steele 1998) 12 CI Victoria and Albert Museum V&A 2008 13 2014 (Judith Clark) (Amy de la Hay) (Jeffrey Horsley) Exhibiting Fashion: before and after 1971 2011 2012 (Clark et al. 2014: 232-233; 238-239) (Kyoto Costume Institute) 14 Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology MFIT (Antwerp) Mode Museum MoMU 12 Steele Jules Prown Prown Prown, 1982 Steele 132006 FIT 2006 FIT Museum Quality: Collecting and Exhibiting Fashion & Textile 14 Akiko Fukai)

page. 61 15 V&A (fun and educational) (Steele 1998) 16 (high culture) 2012 (Christian Dior) (The Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts) 2013 ( Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity ) 2012 ( Hollywood Costume ) 1994 1980 CI ( Manchu Dragon: Costumes of China the Ch ing Dynasty ) 17 15 Judith Clark Foreman, 2013 Spectres : when fashion turns back (Clark. 2005) 16 Steele (Menkes, 2012) 17 (Martin & Koda, 1993: 23-24) Jeff Daly Pinterest https://www.pinterest.com/pin/167759154839647034/ 2015.10.10

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 62 Steele 2008 1999 ( China Chic ) (Steele & Major 1999) (Mao suit) Met Gala Met Ball Youtube Instagram Pinterest Instagram Pinterest 18 4 (Max Baucus) (Frank 2015) 5 75 4 2 3 Teen Blog 18 2

page. 63 19 40 20 CI Met Gala CI CI 2015 Raul Avila 59 Productions 21 (Friedman 2015b) 201525,000 175,000 (Friedman 2015b) 2007 6,500 100,000 (Postrel, 2007)2015 1,250 (Robin Pogrebin & Trebay 2015)2007 450 22 (Museum of Modern Art) 350 19 http://www.metmuseum.org/learn/for-teens/teen-blog/2015/a-new-world-china-through-the-looking-glass 2015.11.10. 20 https://www.facebook.com/metmuseum/posts/10153141635252635?hc_location=ufi 2015.11.10. 21 How the Met Gala Avoided Chinese Clichts. 22 Postrel, 2007

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 64 545 (Friedman 2015b) 2015 (Silas Chou) Wendy Deng Marissa Mayer) (Jennifer Lawrence) (Gamerman 2015) (Vogue) (Doyers Street) (Nom Wah Tea Parlor) (Barsmian 2015) CI 1965 (Albert Ten Eyck Gardner) ( 1965 )

page. 65 (Conde Nast) CI 2014 CI CI 1972 1989 CI (Friedman 2015b) CI CI (Campbell 2014) (Hamish Bowles) 2001 CI (Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years) 23 CI CI 24 (S. Cash) (2011) BMW (1998) Armani (2000-2001) 23 2014 Vogue & the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute (Bowles et al., 2014) 24 1990 Phillip Morris 2015 (BP

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 66 25 (selling out) (Cash 2011) 2000 (Chanel) (Karl Lagerfeld) (Horyn 2000) 26 25 2000 (Giorgio Armani) 150 (Wallach, 2006) 26 (Christian Dior) (Versace)

page. 67 1983 (Yres Saint Laurent) (Menkes 2011) (Robert Storr) (Storr, 1987: 19) 27 (Menkes 2011; Steele 2012: 19) V&A Fashion in Motion 28 2008 (Hoye 2009; Pogrebin 2008; Pogrebin & Trebay 2015; "Timeline: Museums and the Recession," 2009; Vogel 2009) 2015 (Museum Association) (Sally Yerkovich) (Yerkovich 2015) 27 (Cadillac) (General Motors) 28 Fashion in Motion http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/f/fashion-in-motion/ 2015.10.10.

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 68 2012 ( Louis Vuitton: Voyages ) 2012 (Cartier) 29 Maggie Q (Village Voice) (Dawson 2015) (Huffington Post) ( Chinese Style, Served Over-Easy ) (Pinkhasov 2015) 1990 29 2014 11 10

page. 69 Editorial: Museums, theme parks and heritage experiences, 1991; Gilmore & Pine, 2007; Macdonald & Alsford, 1995; Sorensen 1989 20 (Philippe de Montebello) (2003) (convergence) 30 3 1 3,612 5,170 1,208 178 103 34 30

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 70 31 32 1 劉宇及孫若男 2015 2015 1 2015 2015 1 31 3298.2 http://www.weibo.com/ p/1008085607588534499db39e542bb7ff6ace81 2016/2/11

page. 71 徐佳 2015 Met Gala 徐佳 2015 Met Gala icon made in China 侯虹斌 2015

31 Contemporary Art and Media Culture page. 72 (Deyan Sudjic) 2001

page. 73 (2001) CI CI CI CI CI CI 33 33 Armani The Art of Motorcycle

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