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1 2014 年 4 月 APRIL 2014 情繫水鄉大澳懷舊居停 SEA LIFE SPEND THE NIGHT IN TAI O VILLAGE 穿越時空古城平遙今貌 TIME TRAVEL Visit the ancient city of Pingyao 紳士品味倫敦裁縫精製 FRONT ROW MEET LONDON S FINEST TAILORS

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3 目錄 Contents // 專題 FEATURES // 40 中國 China 穿越時空 Time travel 漫步平遙古城隨處可見歷史遺蹟 History looms large on a stroll through the ancient city of Pingyao IMAGES. Cover, Tai O: Courtesy of the Tai O Heritage Hotel. Pingyao: Mark Parren Taylor. Savile Row: Getty Images 香港 Hong Kong 情繫水鄉 Sea life 到訪大澳水鄉, 感受香港質樸的一面 Get another view of the city on a visit to the fishing village of Tai O 34 人物 Profile 舞者足跡 Pointe to pointe 芭蕾舞星吳振紅喜愛旅遊, 並從中得到啟發 Travel inspires ballet star Chan Hon Goh 48 美國 America 海濱樂園 Beach ball 暢遊美國西岸, 到橙縣享受陽光海灘 We hit the West coast for a sunny outlook at Orange County 英國 Britain 紳士品味 Front row 倫敦裁縫街 Savile Row 擁有優秀的工藝傳統 London s Savile Row has a proud tradition of fine craftsmanship 20 澳門 Macau 重點保育 Well preserved 澳門為古蹟建築推行復修及活化計劃 The strategy to protect Macau s heritage sites 60 時尚生活 Lifestyle 品酒文化 In good spirits 各大酒廠致力讓品牌名字更深入人心 Drinks companies raise the bar on branding April 2014 Horizon 3

4 目錄 Contents // 生活專欄 DEPARTMENTS // 地平線上 On the horizon 在香港 澳門及全球各地舉行的精采盛事 Event highlights from Asia and around the world 16 美食紛陳 Dine out 推介世界各地熱門餐廳的美食 Hot spots for the best flavours from around the region and farther afield 18 恬謐居停 Horizontal 精選的世界頂級酒店, 讓你在旅途中放鬆身心 Rest and relaxation await in world-class accommodation 潮流物語 Fashion 穿西裝襯衫不一定只為商務需要, 也可以輕鬆隨意 Wearing a suit doesn t always mean business 70 科技玩意 Gadgets 介紹一些別具巧思的高科技產品 Some bright ideas from the world of technology 72 醇美佳釀 Wine 我們的品酒指南助你選購佳釀 Our tasting guide may help with your next purchase 74 噴射飛航 TurboJET 公司簡介船隊資料服務全面周到推廣優惠美食與飲品點滴與心聲 About our company Vessel information Servicing every need Promotions Food & beverages Some thoughts to share IMAGES. Hotel: Spencer Lowell 4 Horizon April 2014

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6 編者的話 Editor s note // 歡迎詞 WELCOME // 夕陽斜照下的香港漁村大澳 Hong Kong s Tai O village at sunset 每次旅程都是一次增廣見聞的機會, 把你的視野帶到另一境界 澳門擁有 400 多年中西文化交流的歷史, 其歷史城區包括多個廣場及 20 多處建築, 成功列入 世界遺產名錄, 澳門特區政府一向十分積極保育及活化這些建築, 成功的例子多不勝數, 而不少私人機構亦不遺餘力參與 本期, 我們會帶大家走訪由古炮台改建而成的精品酒店, 細賞當中葡式建築細節 ; 以及在福隆新街一邊瀏覽街上成行成市的手信店, 一邊欣賞兩旁保存完好的建築群 談到保育, 位於香港大嶼山的大澳文物酒店, 也是活化歷史建築的一個成功例子, 在翻新的過程中, 小如用一口釘, 也要經過多番考量, 免得破壞原來的建築結構 不過, 大澳吸引的地方豈止是這家酒店, 簡樸的棚屋展現著昔日漁村居民的生活面貌, 還有風味獨特的地方小食 至於中國山西的平遙古城, 由 14 世紀至今, 避過了一次又一次的現代化衝擊, 古樸典雅的建築仍處處可見, 並隱約透著昔日大戶的氣派, 多已活化成為博物館或餐廳 此外, 我們還為愛好水上活動的旅客推介南加州陽光充沛的海灘 ; 為紳士們揭示英國倫敦 Savile Row 度身訂造的竅妙 ; 為酷愛佳釀人士介紹烈酒品牌特設的酒吧 就從今日開始, 展開你探索新世界的旅程吧! EVERY OVERSEAS TRIP is an eye-opening experience, broadening our horizons to a wider world. Macau is a city where East-West interactions began more than 400 years ago. It contains more than 20 buildings and public plazas that are included on UNESCO s World Heritage List. Over the years, Macau s government has done a great deal to preserve and reinvent the city s cultural heritage, with a number of private corporations also funding projects more recently. In this issue, we ll introduce you to a boutique hotel that occupies an old fort and take a trip to Rua da Felicidade. Lined with souvenir shops, the street is part of a cluster of well-preserved historical buildings. The Tai O Heritage Hotel on Hong Kong s Lantau Island is another prized example of successful heritage conservation. During the renovation, to ensure the integrity of the original structure, even the placement of small nails required careful research. The appeal of Tai O goes far beyond one hotel, however. The photogenic stilt houses in the fishing village and the local snacks are other reasons to visit this quaint retreat. Farther afield, in the city of Pingyao in China s Shanxi Province, much has escaped the bulldozing force of urbanisation since its construction in the 14th century. Having been transformed into museums or restaurants, many of the city s beautiful historic buildings can still be explored by visitors. This issue also offers tips for modern indulgences. We explore the top beaches in southern California; bespoke tailoring in London s Savile Row; and exceptional brand-owned bars in Asia. Whatever your pleasure, we hope you savour the experience. 麥慶儀 Vivian Mak 編輯 Editor 6 Horizon April 2014

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8 作者簡介 Contributors STEFFAN LEYSHON- JONES 居於香港的 Steffan 在過去 10 年拍攝過不同主題的圖片 本期, 他再以鏡頭為我們記錄澳門受保育的歷 CYNTHIA ROSENFELD Cynthia 曾為 紐約時報 等刊物撰稿 這次, 她為我們報道南加州沿岸海灘美景時, 不禁想起故鄉那飄自太平洋的溫暖海風 BARBARA LAWSON 在倫敦居住的 Barbara 曾在 金融時報 衛報 等報章工作, 本期, 她帶我們到著名的 Savile Row 街, 欣賞裁縫師們的精湛 Published by BAUER MEDIA HONG KONG LIMITED Unit 604-5, 6/F, 625 King s Road, North Point, Hong Kong Tel: Fax: Website: Editorial enquiries: horizon@bauermedia.com.hk 史建築物現貌 Photographer Steffan has been capturing all manner of subjects for more than 10 years. He shot our feature on the restoration of Macau s architecture. Cynthia has contributed to publications including the New York Times. Writing about the California coast for this issue made her homesick for Pacific Ocean breezes. 工藝 London-based Barbara has worked for the Financial Times and the Guardian. In this issue she reports on the exacting skills of Savile Row s tailors. Executive General Manager Asia Pacific, Bauer Custom Media Niall Murphy Publishing Director Petula Kincaid Business Manager Graham Cheung 張劍波 Editor in Chief William Fraser Editor Vivian Mak 麥慶儀 Deputy Editor Graeme Park Chief Sub Editor Andy Gilbert Creative Director Shaun Horrocks Designer Kenneth Chan 陳健朗 Picture Researcher Pam Cheung 張妙嫻 Production Director Jimmy Tse 謝文忠 Assistant Production Manager Chris Wong 黃昭健 Production Controller Philip Chan 陳偉傑 Advertising Enquires ASIAN INTEGRATED MEDIA LIMITED Managing Director Hong Kong, Peter Jeffery Advertisement Manager ALAN CAMPBELL Alan 曾在香港 上海及北京等地工作了 15 年, 現已回到故鄉溫哥華 他這次為我們專訪當地著名的芭蕾 ROBIN LYNAM Robin 是位專業劉伶, 卻也享受跟人分享品酒心得, 不時撰寫有關酒的文章 本期, 他為我們介紹各款名酒, 以及烈酒品牌 KHAREN HILL 攝影師 Kharen 是個芭蕾舞迷, 她在吳振紅位於溫哥華的芭蕾舞學校為她拍照, 並深深受學校優美的環境及充滿創意的氛圍所 peterjeffery@asianimedia.com Hong Kong, Advertisement Director Joanne To joanne@asianimedia.com Dominic Chan dominic@asianimedia.com Singapore & Malaysia Joseph Yap / joseph@asianimedia.com 舞演員兼教師吳振紅 Alan spent 15 years working as a journalist in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Beijing. For this issue he interviewed the ballerina Chan Hon Goh, back in his native Vancouver. 在亞洲專為當地精英而設的酒吧 A career barfly who also writes from time to time, Robin gives Horizon s readers a guided tour of Asian watering holes dedicated to elite brands of wines and spirits. 感染 Photographer Kharen shot Chan Hong Goh at her ballet school in Vancouver. A lover of ballet, she found the school s creative environment to be both beautiful and inspiring. Horizon magazine is published monthly by TurboJET and is produced for TurboJET by Bauer Media Hong Kong Limited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of TurboJET. All rights reserved. Copyright 2014 by TurboJET. Opinions in Horizon magazine are the writers and not necessarily endorsed by TurboJET. TurboJET and Bauer Media Hong Kong Limited accept no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other material. Manuscripts, photographs and artwork will not be returned unless accompanied by appropriate postage. 中華商務彩色印刷有限公司承印香港新界大埔汀麗路 36 號中商大厦 14 樓 Printed by C&C Offset Printing Company Limited 14/F, C&C Building, 36 Ting Lai Road, Tai Po, New Territories, Hong Kong 8 Horizon April 2014

9 入住澳門文華東方酒店盡享 漫遊澳門 世遺之旅 EXPLORE UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES WHILST STAYING AT MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU 澳門文華東方酒店邀您體驗兼具娛樂與知性的 漫遊澳門 世遺之旅, 讓您不僅可以享受福布斯旅遊指南五星評級肯定的酒店設施及服務, 亦可在專業導遊的帶領解說下, 深度探索世界級文化歷史古跡和訪澳必遊的名勝景點, 以與眾不同的人文角度, 親身體驗最真實動人的澳門 訂房或查詢, 請致電 漫遊澳門 世遺之旅 推廣有效期至 2014 年 12 月 29 日, 價格由澳門幣 4,988* 元起 優惠包括 : 豪華客房或套房住宿一晚 御苑餐廳雙人自助早餐 四小時專人導覽城市旅遊, 行程包括聯合國教科文組織所列之世界遺產和旅遊名勝等, 且導覽解說可選擇英 中 粵 日或韓語 精選葡國特色迎賓禮品 酒店內免費高速互聯網服務 * 需另加壹服務費及零伍政府旅遊稅 ** 條款及細則適用 Mandarin Oriental, Macau invites you to an inspiring Macau Cultural Discovery holiday where you will experience the cultural diversity of this former Portuguese colony through an in-depth escorted tour to world-class cultural and historical spots, as well as other intriguing destinations all over Macau. For reservations, please call The Macau Cultural Discovery package is available until 29 December 2014, with rates starting from MOP4,988 *. The package includes: One night s accommodation in a luxurious guestroom or suite Buffet breakfast for two at Vida Rica Restaurant Four-hour city tour highlighting UNESCO World Heritage Sites led by an experienced tour guide available in five languages English, Mandarin, Cantonese, Japanese and Korean Themed turndown amenities during the stay Complimentary use of the Internet throughout the hotel * Price is subject to 10% service charge and 5% government tourism tax. ** Terms and conditions apply. 地址 ADDRESS: 澳門文華東方酒店 Mandarin Oriental, Macau 澳門外港新填海區孫逸仙大馬路 Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau

10 地平線上 On the horizon // 澳門及香港活動一覽 WHAT S ON IN MACAU & HONG KONG // 帆船好手揚帆出發, 在怒海中挑戰自己 Set sail for adventure on the high seas this spring 帆船 盛會 Regatta revelry 帆船好手在區內乘風破浪 Nautical events making waves in the region 為期一周的勞力士中國海帆船賽於 4 月 16 日在香港遊艇會揭開戰幔, 今年預計有約 15 艘帆船參賽, 從維多利亞港啟航, 競相以最快速度前往菲律賓蘇碧灣, 全程約 565 海里 這項兩年一度的大賽於 1962 年首辦, 是亞洲的頂級帆船大賽 與此同時, 香港遊艇會舉辦的首屆 Hong Kong Race Week 於 4 月 17 日展開, 約 150 艘單人或雙人操控的小帆船從遊艇會設於港島南區的熨波洲基地出發, 圍繞淺水灣 赤柱和大潭灣比賽 名列前茅的選手有機會代表香港參加國際賽事 帆船好手克服航程中各項挑戰, 贏取勞力士中國海帆船賽獎盃 To win the Rolex South China Sea race trophy, sailors face tough seas 最佳觀賽地點 VANTAGE POINTS 勞力士中國海帆船賽於下午 1 時 20 分展開, 參賽帆船由香港遊艇會出發, 向維港東面航行, 尖 沙咀星光大道是欣賞船隊浩浩蕩 蕩出發的上佳位置 在帆船 離開維港後, 可以登 入遊艇會的網站查閱 最新戰況 The Rolex China Sea Race gets underway at 1:20pm and the Avenue of Stars in Tsim Sha Tsui offers a good view. From the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club in Victoria Harbour, yachts will sail east. Once they are out of view, they can be tracked on the club s website. A WEEK of sailing action begins on 16 April with the start of the Rolex China Sea Race at the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club in Hong Kong s Victoria Harbour. The biennale event has become one of Asia s premier sailing competitions since it was first held in Some 15 yachts are expected to compete in the 565-nautical-mile voyage from Hong Kong to Subic Bay in the Philippines. The club s inaugural Hong Kong Race Week gets underway on 17 April. About 150 sailing dinghies (inclduing Optimists, Lasers and 420s) will sail out of its Middle Island base on the south side of Hong Kong Island in a regatta around Repulse Bay, Stanley Bay and Tai Tam Bay. The top sailors will be battling it out to represent Hong Kong in future competitions. 勞力士中國海帆船賽 :4 月 16 日 ; Rolex China Sea Race: 16 April; Hong Kong Race Week: 4 月 17 至 21 日 ;17-21 April IMAGES : Yacht; trophy: Rolex / Daniel Forster 10 Horizon April 2014

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12 地平線上 // On the Horizon // 士兵故事澳門樂團的音樂推廣系列之一, 包括演出史特拉汶斯基的著名室內歌劇 士兵的故事 ; 這個經 筆墨情濃 Painted past 典巨作劇力萬鈞, 講述一名士兵 香港藝術館舉辦 存念 萬青屴 將他的小提琴技巧與魔鬼交易, 珍藏師友饋贈書畫印展覽, 展出 以換取財富 書畫名家萬青屴的 140 多件師友所 贈的國畫和書法作品 ; 參觀者還可 SOLDIER OF FORTUNE The Macau Orchestra will perform Stravinsky s The Soldier s Tale as part of its Music Promotion series. Full of dramatic changes in the time signature, it tells the story of a soldier who trades his fiddle to the devil in return for wealth. 4 月 25 至 26 日, April 東方風采香港蘇豪區荷李活道的多間藝廊攜手舉辦香港東方藝術周, 新開幕的兩依藏博物館是今次活動的主要場地, 中國書法藝術家馮明秋定於 4 月 8 日在館內舉行講座 EASTERN PROMISE The galleries along Hollywood Road, in Hong Kong s Soho district, are coming together for a week-long celebration of Asian Art. The newly opened Liang Yi Museum will be a key venue and will host a seminar from Chinese-calligraphy artist Fung Ming-chip on 8 April. 4 月 3 至 12 日, 3-12 April 拉克洛什於 1925 年製造的嵌翡翠琥珀化妝盒, 現於兩依藏博物館展出 Made in 1925 by Lacloche, this nécessaire is one of a collection on show in the Liang Yi Museum 以看到萬青屴和藝壇好友的往來書札 ; 一封封親筆書信有助加深認識 20 世紀中國藝術界的發展 THE HONG KONG Museum of Art s Bonds of Memory: Wan Qingli s Collection of Chinese Art Given by His Teachers and Friends exhibition features more than 140 Chinese paintings, seals and works of calligraphy given to the acclaimed artist. Handwritten letters sent between Wan and his artist friends will also be on display, offering insights into the development of Chinese art throughout the 20th century. 展期至 4 月 23 日, Until 23 April Boldness is precious; soul is integral: Ink on paper scroll by Li Keran (1976) 可貴者膽 ; 所要者魂 : 李可染寫於 1976 年的書法卷軸 生活色彩 In living colour 世界知名的台灣雕塑家朱銘首次在香港舉行大型個展 刻畫人間 朱銘雕塑大展 ; 展覽在香港藝術館舉行, 展出 120 件來自 人間系列 的雕塑, 每件作品均色彩鮮明, 分別以銅 鋼及陶器等物料雕成, 呈現朱銘眼中的人間百態 JU MING Sculpting the Living World at the Hong Kong Museum of Art is world-renowned Taiwanese sculptor Ju Ming s first large-scale solo show in Hong Kong. Bringing together 120 works, each of the Living World family is a brightly coloured character wrought from materials including bronze, steel and ceramic, and set in poses that embody the artist s impressions of human nature. 游泳 是朱銘雕塑大展的作品之一 Swimming is one of the many Ju Ming pieces in this major exhibition IMAGES: The Soldier s Tale: tanglephotography.co.uk. Swimming and scroll: Courtesy of LCSD. Lacloche nécessaire: Courtesy of Liang Yi Museum 展期至 6 月 15 日, Until 15 June 12 Horizon April 2014

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14 地平線上 - 寰宇 // On the Horizon Global // 免費欣賞意大利於每年 4 月舉行文化周, 位於佛羅倫斯 羅馬 米蘭和威尼斯的國立博物館和歷史遺蹟均可免費入場 由於活動極受歡迎, 務必提早預約 參與活動的景點包括羅馬競技場 威尼斯美術學院, 以及收藏了達文西 米開朗基羅和拉菲爾等藝術大師作品的佛羅倫斯 Uffizi 美術館 FREE FOR ALL Every state-run museum and historical site in Florence, Rome, Milan and Venice is free to enter during Italian culture week in April. The event is popular, so book in advance. The sites include the Colosseum in Rome, the Venice Academy and Florence s Uffizi galleries, home to works by Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo and Raphael. 藝術彩蛋 到紐約尋找充滿藝術感的大型復活節彩蛋 Search New York for its artful Easter-egg sculptures 復活節尋蛋遊戲 Fabergé Big Egg Hunt 本月在紐約舉行,200 多隻復活節彩蛋會放置在市內多處地點 這些大型彩蛋由多位世界知名藝術家 設計師和建築師親自粉飾, 當中包括 Tracey Emin Diane von Fürstenberg 和 Zaha Hadid 等 彩蛋會分別放置於紐約五個行政區的公眾地方, 參加者可根據一個童話故事的線索尋到彩蛋的位置 活動由著名珠寶品牌 Fabergé 贊助, 三位獲勝的參加者各可獲贈一枚特製的黃金鑽石彩蛋吊墜, 分別鑲上贊比亞祖母綠 Scavenger hunt 文 /Text Graeme Park 莫桑比克紅寶石或贊比亞紫藍色寶石 在 4 月 22 日, 這些極富收藏價值的大型彩蛋將由蘇富比進行慈善拍賣, 所得善款將透過 Studio in a School 和 Elephant Family 兩個慈善組織, 分別用於拓展紐約公共學校的藝術教育和保護亞洲區內的瀕危大象 4 月 9-17 日, 9-17 April 時尚檔案倫敦的維多利亞和艾爾伯特博物館將舉辦高級訂製時裝展 : 意大利魅力時裝展 ( ), 透過介紹奠定意國時裝超卓地位的代表人物和機構, 探索其時裝底蘊, 展示 Dolce & Gabbana Prada 和 Versace 等品牌的經典款式 STYLE FILES London s Victoria and Albert Museum is hosting a major exhibition of Italian couture. The Glamour of Italian Fashion explores Italian fashion through key individuals and organisations that have contributed to the country s reputation of high style. Items from fashion houses such as Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Versace are on display. 4 月 5 日 -7 月 27 日 5 April-27 July Dolce & Gabbana 於 2000 年設計的靴子是意大利時尚展品之一 Dolce & Gabbana boots made in 2000 are part of an exhibition on Italian fashion 水花四濺 Make a splash 潑水節是泰國的新年慶典, 於每年旱季結束時舉行, 這也是全年最炎熱的時間, 全國各地數以萬計的民眾都會在街上打水戰, 慶祝這個盛大節日 潑水不僅可以帶來清涼快感, 也代表洗掉前一年的厄運, 迎接新的開始 SONGKRAN, Thailand s New Year celebration, falls at the end of the country s dry season, during what is typically the hottest time of year. Festivities are marked by huge water fights across the country, with thousands of people taking to the streets in celebration. While cooling, the water actually symbolises the cleansing of bad luck from the previous year. 4 月 日, April, songkran2014.com 14 Horizon April 2014

15 IMAGES. Water fight: Pornchai Kittiwongsakul AFP/Getty Images. Musician: Tim Mosenfelder Getty Images. Shoes: Courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum MORE THAN 200 oversized eggs will be displayed in New York in April as part of the Fabergé Big Egg Hunt. The sculptures have been fashioned by some of the world s leading artists, designers and architects, including Tracey Emin, Diane von Fürstenberg and Zaha Hadid. Each egg will be placed in a public place within the city s five boroughs, with clues to their whereabouts written in a fairy tale. The hunt is sponsored by renowned jeweller Fabergé and three successful egghunters will win a special eggshaped pendant in gold and diamonds, set with either Zambian emeralds, Mozambican rubies or Zambian amethysts. On 22 April, Sotheby s will auction the egg sculptures and funds raised will go to support arts programmes in New York public schools and efforts to protect the endangered Asian elephant. 4 月 1-26 日, 1-26 April 弗里曼特爾街頭藝術節的街頭表演節目 Saurus The Fremantle Street Arts Festival features street performance Saurus 藝滿街頭 Streets alive 弗里曼特爾街頭藝術節是澳洲最大型的藝術盛事之一, 預計會吸引逾 10 萬名訪客參加 在藝術節舉行期間, 西澳洲珀斯的弗里曼特爾市內各處架設室外表演場地, 觀眾可欣賞到音樂 喜劇 馬戲和歌舞等表演 MORE THAN 100,000 visitors are expected to attend the Fremantle Street Arts Festival, one of Australia s largest arts events. Expect to be entertained by music performances, comedy routines, circus acts and cabaret numbers on specially built outdoor stages throughout the city of Fremantle, in Perth, Western Australia. 在紐約街頭展出的彩蛋作品, 每件設計均獨一無二 Each of the eggs displayed on the streets of New York is unique 在泰國, 慶祝新年要準備全身濕透 Ring in the Thai New Year with a super soaking 爵士樂韻 4 月 日, April All that jazz 一年一度的新奧爾良爵士樂及傳統文化節不僅只有爵士樂, 還呈獻其他類型的音樂 這個連續在兩個周末舉行的音樂盛會, 由 Eric Clapton Arcade Fire Santana Preservation Hall Jazz Band 和 Alabama Shakes 等為觀眾獻上美妙的歌聲 MANY GENRES are represented at the annual New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival, not just jazz. It s two weekends featuring performances by Eric Clapton, Arcade Fire, the Preservation Hall Jazz Band, the Alabama Shakes and other acts. 4 月 25 日 -5 月 4 日, 25 April-4 May Wayne Shorter 去年在新奧爾良爵士樂節獻技 Wayne Shorter playing at the 2013 New Orleans jazz festival April 2014 Horizon 15

16 美食紛陳 Dine Out // 頂級餐廳及酒吧指南 A GUIDE TO THE BEST RESTAURANTS AND BARS // 位於北京老胡同內的穆祿, 供應糅合中式及馬來風味的菜式 A mix of Chinese and Malaysian cuisine awaits behind the doors of MULU Beijing 胡同美食 Perfect hideaway 走進北京的老胡同品嚐新派私房菜 Step into one of Beijing s historic hutongs for a private-dining experience 位於北京東城區老胡同內的穆祿私房菜館供應糅合中式與馬來風味的菜式 館子的名稱源自馬來西亞婆羅洲一個以石灰岩洞聞名的地區 Mulu, 而該區已被列入聯合國教科文組織的 世界遺產名錄 若想到這家餐館品嚐美食, 最少要提早兩天訂座 大廳內的清代桌子可以坐 12 人, 另有以榻榻米佈置的小廳, 可招待十位客人 掌廚的大廚被大家暱稱為 寶桂媽媽 ; 她曾在台北經營傳統台菜餐廳多年, 廚藝了得 與寶桂媽媽一同工作的還有廚師李理, 他曾在多間五星級酒店任職, 有十年經驗 餐廳每兩星期轉換菜單一次, 但客人可以隨時來一碗媽媽炮製的牛肉麵和中式點心 馳名菜式包括..馬來咖喱薯仔牛腩 醉雞和創新口味的凱撒沙律 共冶一爐 Blend it 位於香港上環的 Man Mo Café 餐廳小巧玲瓏, 供應口味與別不 同 融合中法風味的精美點心 招牌美食之一的鵝肝小籠包將 高級法式美食加入著名中式美點, 備受食客歡迎 SERVING A SEEMINGLY unusual fusion of Chinese and French cuisines, Man Mo Café is a cute little dim sum eatery in Hong Kong s Sheung Wan district. Culinary mash-ups such as the foie gras xiao long bao fuse fine French delicacies with classic Chinese staples and are proving popular with diners. Man Mo Café 的番茄意大利水牛芝士餃子 Tomato mozzarella dumplings at Man Mo Café BLENDING THE cuisines of Malaysia and China, MULU Beijing is a private dining room located in a historic hutong, or alleyway, in the city s Dongcheng district. The restaurant takes its name from a region of limestone caves in East Malaysia that has been inscribed on UNESCO s World Heritage List. Diners are advised to book at least two days in advance. The main dining room seats 12 people around a Qing Dynasty-era table, while a smaller tatami room has space for 10. In the kitchen, Pao-Gwei or Mama, as she is affectionately known heads up the cooking and draws on years of experience running a traditional Taiwanese restaurant in Taipei. Alongside her is chef Chester Li, who brings a decade of experience that includes various five-star hotels. Although the set menu changes every two weeks, diners are encouraged to ask for Mama s beef noodles and Chinese pastries. Other dishes that have appeared on the menu include Malaysian beef curry with potatoes, drunken chicken and a deconstructed Caesar salad. muluworld.com 16 Horizon April 2014

17 Marcus 餐廳提供精緻法國菜式 ( 上圖 ) Fine French cuisine (above) at Marcus restaurant 煥然一新 倫敦 The Berkeley 酒店內的 米芝蓮兩星級餐廳 Marcus Wareing, 裝修後易名為 Marcus 重新開業 餐廳的新裝潢令氣氛更輕鬆自在, 大廚亦會繼續炮製精美的新派法國菜式 IMAGES. Dumplings: Jonathan Maloney Photography. Whisky: Getty Images Whisky Tango Foxtrot 供應的威士忌加冰 On the rocks at Whisky Tango Foxtrot NEW DIRECTION The two-michelin-starrated Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley hotel has reopened as Marcus. The London fine-dining establishment has opted for a more relaxed outlook, but is still producing excellent modern French cuisine. 品味佳釀吉隆坡的 Whisky Tango Foxtrot 新店, 設計仿照舊日的紳士俱樂部, 店內以皮革作裝飾, 氣派不凡 酒吧精選上乘的威士忌奉客, 但只會整瓶出售 不妨選個悠閒的晚上, 於此細意品味美酒 GOOD SPIRITS Kuala Lumpur s new Whisky Tango Foxtrot has been designed to resemble an old-world gentleman s club, complete with eye-catching leather finishes throughout. The bar is dedicated to fine whisky, but it s sold by the bottle so prepare to settle in. April 2014 Horizon 17

18 恬謐居停 Horizontal // 地理位置優越的豪華酒店 LUXURY HOTELS IN TOP LOCATIONS // 藝術客房新加坡的 Naumi Hotel 推出一系列主題酒店套房, 設計靈感源自法國時裝設計師 Coco Chanel 及美國藝術家 Andy Warhol 的作品 這些套房中, 有部分採取單色調設計, 低調典雅又不失華美, 其他的套房則色彩繽紛 趣意洋溢 ARTFUL IMITATION Naumi Hotel Singapore has launched a set of themed hotel suites inspired by the works of French fashion designer Coco Chanel and American artist Andy Warhol. Some suites are understated and classy in monochrome, while others pop with colour and whimsy. 優美景觀樓高 62 層的南京金奧大廈外觀仿照中式燈籠設計, 而新開幕的南京金奧費爾蒙酒店便是設於這幢地標建築內 ; 酒店的 359 間客房均可飽覽長江美景 全日開放的餐廳 Altitude 設於 60 樓, 坐擁 360 度景觀俯瞰全市, 酒店還有其他六家餐廳和酒吧 FAIR VIEWS Designed to resemble a Chinese lantern, Nanjing s Jin Ao Tower is home to the newly opened Fairmont Nanjing, with each of its 359 guest rooms offering a view of the Yangtze River. Altitude, the hotel s allday dining venue on the 60th floor, has 360-degree vistas of the city and is one of seven in-house restaurants and bars. 南京金奧費爾蒙酒店位於外觀像燈籠的金奧大廈的高層 The Fairmont Nanjing occupies the upper floors of the lanternlike Jin Ao Tower 人間天堂 Paradise found 香格里拉酒店集團在西藏打造世外桃源 The Shangri-La group lives up to its literary namesake in Tibet 文 /Text Graeme Park 豪華酒店集團香格里拉的名字, 出自英國作家 James Hilton 的著名小說 消失的地平線 內虛構的西藏世外桃源 因此, 集團首間開設於西藏的酒店 : 拉薩香格里拉大酒店, 當然亦致力為住客在塵世間建設一方樂土 有何特色? 拉薩是世界上海拔最高的城市之一 酒店位於海拔 3,650 米以上, 共有 289 間客房, 並特設氧氣室, 幫助住客適應高山環境 調適過後, 旅客可信步至布達拉宮等多個景點 布達拉宮被列入聯合國教科文組織的 世界遺產名錄, 昔日曾是多位達賴喇嘛的冬宮 有哪些餐飲選擇? 住客可到香巴拉餐廳及酒吧品嚐正宗西藏料理, 這間餐廳牆上有西藏掛毯及佛教象徵吉祥的 無盡結 等裝飾圖案, 營造出融會傳統與時尚格調的氛圍 酒店還設有全天供應國際美食的雲頂餐廳, 以及香格里拉的招牌川粵菜館香宮 IMAGES. Theatre: Spencer Lowell 18 Horizon April 2014

19 拉薩香格里拉大酒店糅合現代設計及西藏圖案裝飾 The Shangri-La, Lhasa, combines modern design with decorative Tibetan motifs LUXURY HOTEL chain Shangri-La is named after the fictional Tibetan utopia in Lost Horizon, a novel by British author James Hilton. So it is fitting that the group s first Tibetbased property, Shangri-La Hotel, Lhasa, delivers a little slice of paradise to its visitors. What makes it stand out? Lhasa is one of the world s highest cities. The 289-room hotel stands at an altitude of 3,650 metres above sea level and features a special oxygen lounge to help guests acclimatise. Once adjusted, guests can explore the many attractions within walking distance, including the Historic Ensemble of the Potala Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was previously the traditional winter home of the Dalai Lama. What about food and drink? Enjoy authentic Tibetan cuisine at Shambala, an atmospheric bar and lounge where tapestry-covered walls and decorative motifs such as the Buddhist endless knot make a traditional yet stylish statement. Other restaurants include Altitude, the all-day international dining outlet, and Shangri-La s signature Cantonese and Sichuan restaurant, Shang Palace. 復修後的聯美電影院仍保留於 Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles 所在的建築內 The restored United Artists Theatre still stands in the building housing the Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles 皇牌酒店 Ace in the pack 洛杉磯時尚酒店 Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles 所在的建築物於 1920 年代建成, 前身是聯美影業公司大樓, 復修後重現昔日光華 ; 酒店設有 180 間客房, 並保留原來的電影院, 成為藝術團體 LA Dance Project 的會址 THE HIP Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles occupies the former United Artists building, which houses a theatre that was once the movie studio s flagship cinema. Originally built in the 1920s, the building has been restored to its former glory and, alongside the 180 rooms, the theatre space still stands, repurposed as the home of artist collective LA Dance Project. April 2014 Horizon 19

20 旅行專題 澳門 // Travel-Macau // 澳門的建築融合 16 世紀至今的各種不同設計風格, 其中的拱形設計及鮮明色調更是典型元素 Arches and bold colours are typical of the architecture of Macau, which showcases an eclectic array of designs dating back to the 16th century 20 Horizon April 2014

21 WELL PRESERVED 重點保育 文 /Text Tamsin Bradshaw 攝影 /Photos Steffan Leyshon-Jones 澳門的歷史城區經過不同文化的洗禮, 而新法例確保這些歷史建築物得以保存下來 Macau s heritage sites tell of the city s mix of cultural influences. A new law may help ensure these historic structures are here to stay April 2014 Horizon 21

22 旅行專題 澳門 // Travel-Macau // 殖民地時期建築在德望堂坊 ( 右圖 ) 及 St. Lorenzo( 上圖 ) 等歷史悠久的社區得到良好保育 The colonial architecture in the historic neighbourhoods of St. Lazarus (right) and St. Lorenzo (above) has been preserved for posterity 位於福隆新街的餅店 ( 左圖 ) 出品澳門的特色小食, 廣受遊客歡迎 Shops at the lower end of Rua da Felicidade (left) produce Macanese snacks for the tourist trade 隆新街 ( 其葡語名稱的意思是 快樂街 ) 兩旁的典型澳葡時期建築上, 均有雕花欄杆陽台及百葉窗櫺, 可說是澳門最具風格的歷史建築群 1996 年, 澳葡政府曾在此區進行修復工程, 如今街道兩旁商店及食肆林立, 廣受遊客歡迎 然而, 這條街道也見證了澳門紙醉金迷的過去 ; 那裡曾經是澳門的紅燈區, 並匯集賭坊 酒家及鴉片煙館 福隆新街最初期的樓房, 大部分於 1800 年代後期由富翁王祿斥資興建 此外, 他亦在附近興建了清平戲院, 成為華南地區第一家專供粵劇演出的場地, 王祿可謂對中國傳統藝術作出了一定的貢獻 這家劇院於 20 世紀改作電影院, 直至 1992 年結業 最近, 澳門文化局計劃活化該區, 福隆新街及清平 LINED WITH THE LATTICED balustrades and window shutters of its Portuguese-era buildings, Rua da Felicidade Happiness Street is a felicitous display of Macau s heritage. Last renovated in 1996 by the governing Portuguese, the pretty street of shops and eateries is now popular with tourists. But the street also tells the story of Macau s rollicking past: it was once the centre of the territory s red-light district, home to brothels, gambling stalls, drinking houses and opium dens. A wealthy Chinese merchant, Vong Lok, built much of the original Rua da Felicidade in the late 1800s. He also contributed to a traditional Chinese art form with the construction of the nearby Cheng Peng Theatre, the first performance hall 22 Horizon April 2014

23 內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文 Xxxxxx xxxxxxxx xxxxxx xxxxxxxxx xxxxxx xxx xxxxxx Xxxxxx xxxxxxxx xxxxxx xxxxxxxxx xxxxxx xxx xxxxxx Xxxxxx xxxxxxxx xxxxxx xxxxxxxxx xxxxxx xxx xxxxxx Xxxxxx xxxxxxxx xxxxxx xxxxxxxxx xxxxxx xxx xxxxxx April 2014 Horizon 31

24 旅行專題 澳門 // Travel-Macau //

25 內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文內文 Xxxxxx xxxxxxxx xxxxxx xxxxxxxxx xxxxxx xxx xxxxxx Xxxxxx xxxxxxxx xxxxxx xxxxxxxxx xxxxxx xxx xxxxxx 阿婆井前地 ( 上圖 ) 位於列入聯合國教科文組織 世界遺產名錄 的澳門歷史城區之內澳門的歷史建築 ( 左頁圖片 ) 展現不同風格, 受到新古典主義以至儒家的影響, 反映其融合歐亞文化的歷史 Lilau Square (above) comprises part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Historic Centre of Macau With styles ranging from Neoclassical to Confucian, Macau s heritage buildings (left) reflect its fusion of European and Asian history 戲院被列入保育議題之內 澳門今年 3 月 1 日開始實施 文化遺產保護法, 不少古蹟建築會因而受到監管 該法例要求社會各界參與修復澳門歷史古蹟的計劃, 以加強保育及活化集歐 亞建築特色於一身的澳門歷史建築 澳門不少樓宇始建於 16 世紀, 當時葡萄牙人開始在澳門定居, 而澳門的建築深受不同文化影響 ; 由儒家 佛教 道教, 以至摩爾式及基督教設計 在聯合國教科文組織於 2005 年列入 世界遺產名錄 的 澳門歷史城區 範圍內, 便有很多這些歷史建築 該城區位於澳門半島, 當中有道教廟宇媽閣廟 新古典主義建築港務局大樓 私人宅第鄭家大屋, 以及經常見於照片上的大三巴牌坊等多個重要歷史建築 歷史城區並延展至東望洋炮台 : 它由軍事碉堡 教堂與燈塔組成, 坐落於較不為人熟悉 但保存良好的望德堂區 澳門城市規劃學會會長崔世平認為, 把整個建築群賦予歷史價值, 有利推動保育工作 他指出 : 保育整個建築群比保育單一建築更具效益, 因為建築群更能呈現我們想保留的那段歷史 政府對保育澳門文化遺產固然責無旁貸, 私人機構亦積極參與其中 其中一個例子是由葡京酒店集團旗下管理的聖地牙哥古堡酒店 ; 該酒店坐落於砲台遺址之內, 自 17 世紀初起, 這座砲台一直鎮守澳門內港入口 葡京酒店集團於 2004 年購入相關物業, 於 2007 年進行翻新工程, 現時酒店設有 12 間客房 該砲台於 1981 年首度改建成酒店, 當時由政府負責修復工程, 除了修復遺址內的聖雅各伯小教堂, 把教堂內的聖雅各伯雕像擦洗乾淨, 並在堡壘原有的厚磚牆上方興建了一幢葡式旅館, 其客房及餐廳風格一致, 均沿用古老的伊比利亞式設計, 處處可見到高挑 呈半圓形的拱頂 purpose-built for Cantonese opera in southern China. The venue became a cinema in the 20th century before falling into disuse after Recently, both the street and the theatre have become the subject of discussion amid the Cultural Affairs Bureau s plans to revitalise the area. Many heritage structures are expected to be affected by the newly introduced Cultural Heritage Protection Law, which came into effect on 1 March, requiring community involvement in all of Macau s restoration projects, with the aim of improving the preservation and adaptation of Macau s mixed European and Asian architectural heritage. Some of Macau s buildings date back to the 16th century, when the Portuguese first settled there. The significant architectural influences range from Confucian, Taoist and Buddhist styles to Moorish and Christian designs. Many of these buildings are located in the Historic Centre of Macau, an area named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Located on the Macau peninsula, it encompasses important structures such as the Taoist A-Ma Temple, the neoclassical Moorish Barracks, the residential Mandarin s House and the much-photographed Ruins of St. Paul s. The heritage area extends to Guia Fortress a military fort, chapel and lighthouse complex in the lesser-known but beautifully preserved St. Lazarus district. Chui Sai Peng, President of the Macau Urban Planning Institute, says defining a cluster of buildings April 2014 Horizon 25

26 旅行專題 澳門 // Travel-Macau // 澳門房地產投資管理公司力都有限公司, 曾經把不少 澳葡時期的殖民地時期建築改建作現代用途, 豪宅項目 迎就是其中一個例子 迎的原有建築毗鄰阿婆井前 地, 重建工程修復了建築原來的歐式外牆, 然後在外牆之內興建全新的低密度住宅, 當中包括獨立別墅 分層單位及泊車位 阿婆井前地是當年葡萄牙士兵進駐澳門最先找到的食水水源, 據說當時是在一名老婦人的指引下找到, 後來它成為市內主要的天然泉水來源, 而這老地標因此而得名, 也是其保育價值所在 力都有限公司澳門業務董事 Joao Afonso 說 : 談到澳門歷史古蹟, 總少不了一個故事 Afonso 的媽媽是葡萄牙人, 爸爸是澳門土生葡人, 因此他十分重視城中的歷史古蹟 他表示 : 我致力保存澳門的葡萄牙文化 並感慨澳門源自歐洲的影響正在急速消失 他續說 : 現在這輩青少年對這方面教育不多, 因此對葡國文化一無所知 福隆新街吸引了大量遊客, 足以證明歷史根源對澳門旅遊業的重要性 如今遊客來到這條街上已非像昔日般為了尋歡及飲酒作樂, 而是來品嚐傳統葡國和中式美食, 包括葡式蛋撻 杏仁餅 辣肉乾及燒乳鴿等 ; 遊客大可一邊品嚐美食一邊欣賞歷史建築 對很多人來說, 這裡或許只是澳門的歷史一隅, 卻是未來非常珍貴的一部分 聖地牙哥古堡酒店 ( 上圖及中圖 ) 是建於砲台遺址內的精品酒店當局正就福隆新街區 ( 下圖 ) 的保育工作進行籌劃及討論迎 ( 上右圖 ) 是由澳門殖民地時期建築改建而成的現代豪華住宅兩層的鄭家大屋 ( 下右圖 ) 呈現傳統的粵式建築風格 Pousada de São Tiago (top and middle right) is a boutique hotel housed in an old fortress Plans for revitalising the historic Rua da Felicicdade area (bottom) are in discussion The Fountainside (top far right) is a colonial Macanese structure adapted for modern luxury apartments The two-storey Mandarin s House (bottom right) exhibits traditional Guangdong-style architecture 值得一遊 / LOOK OUT FOR 望德堂區 St. Lazarus district 在望德堂坊, 遊人可見到一幢幢古舊 外牆髹上黃色及粉紅色的兩層高樓房, 其中不少建有葡式風格的露台 At St. Lazarus Square, visitors will see old, two-storey houses painted yellow and pink, many of which also feature Portuguese-style balconies. 阿婆井前地 Lilau Square 迎是私人住宅項目, 其殖民地建築外牆經修復後重現昔日風華 鄭家大屋乃位於同區的古老大宅, 呈現傳統粵式建築風格 The Fountainside is a residential building within colonial façades restored to their former glory. The Mandarin s House, a residential complex in traditional Guangdong-style architecture, is also in the area. 福隆新街 Rua da Felicidade 這條 快樂街 是選購手信 品嚐地道美食及認識澳門歷史的好去處 Happiness Street is a place to shop for souvenirs, eat regional dishes and learn about Macau s past. 大三巴牌坊 Ruins of St. Paul s 聖保祿教堂及聖保祿學院經歷數次火災, 現僅存建於 16 世紀 矚目壯觀的正面牆壁 遺址內的天主教藝術博物館保存了原有的雕像及宗教藝術品, 當中包括聖保祿學院碩果僅存的油畫珍藏 Several fires destroyed the Cathedral of St. Paul and St. Paul s College, leaving an impressive 16th-century façade behind. The museum holds the buildings carvings and religious artefacts, including the sole surviving painting from the college. 26 Horizon April 2014

27 as having heritage value is considered a benefit to conservation efforts. Preservation of groups of buildings instead of individual houses has a greater effect. It really brings back the period of time we re trying to preserve, he says. While the government is predominantly responsible for ensuring Macau s heritage is preserved, the private sector also gets involved. The Hotel Lisboa group, for example, now manages Pousada de São Tiago, a 12-suite hotel located in a fortress that has stood guard at the entrance to Macau s Inner Harbour since the early 17th century. The group acquired the property in 2004 and renovated it in The fortress first became a hotel in 1981, with the government shouldering the responsibility for the work. The chapel on-site dedicated to St. James of the Barra was restored, and the statue of St. James cleaned up. A pousada, or Portuguese inn, was built on top of the thick brick walls of the existing fort. The rooms and restaurant conform to its style with high, rounded Iberian arches of old. Sniper Capital, a Macau-based real-estate investment management firm, has worked on several projects that adapt colonial Macanese structures for modern use. The Fountainside is one such project: the original European-style façades of the buildings next to Lilau Square have been restored, with new, low-density residential villas, apartments and parking spaces housed within the original exteriors. Lilau Square marks the spot where the Portuguese army first found drinking water in Macau, supposedly under the guidance of an old woman, and it became the main source of natural spring water for the city details that give an old landmark meaning and make its preservation significant. The historical side of Macau always has a story, says João Afonso, Director of Macau Operations for Sniper Capital. Afonso has a Portuguese mother and Macanese father, so the city s heritage is dear to his heart. I try to preserve Portuguese culture in Macau, he says, while lamenting how quickly the city s European roots are disappearing. Nowadays, the young kids don t have enough education; they don t know about Portuguese culture. The many tourists who visit Rua da Felicidade demonstrate that a city s roots are also important to Macau s tourism. Instead of brothels and drinking dens, however, today s visitors seek happiness through traditional Portuguese and Chinese dishes. Here, food choices including egg tarts, almond biscuits, spicy preserved meat and roasted pigeon are served amid the street s historic architecture. To many, this is just a little taste of Macau s past, but it is a valuable part of its future. April 2014 Horizon 27

28 旅行專題 地點香港 // Travel-Xxxxxx Travel-Hong Kong // // SEA LIFE 情繫水鄉 自成一國的水鄉大澳, 保留著香港質樸的一面 Visit the fishing enclave of Tai O to experience Hong Kong s rustic side 文 /Text 張志明 /Cheung Chi-ming 建於岸邊的棚屋是大澳最為人熟悉的特色 The stilt houses built along the shores of Tai O are the most distinctive feature of the village 28 Horizon April 2014

29 道沿岸佈滿棚屋, 船隻駛過其中, 情景恍如意大利的威尼斯 然而這裡是大嶼山西部的大澳, 一條極具本土風味的漁村 大澳遠離鬧市, 從大嶼山北面的東涌乘巴士前往, 需時約 40 分鐘 巴士總站旁的永安街, 海味店林立, 一排排掛在商店門外的花膠 蠔豉 魚乾 蝦乾等 像是夾道歡迎來訪的客人 沿永安街前行約一百米, 拐個彎, 一條水道橫在眼前, 一道鋼橋連接兩岸 水道是大澳涌, 昔日人們往返兩岸, 要靠以人手拉動繩纜的舢舨接載, 這種稱為 橫水渡 的交通工具, 有 80 多年歷史, 直到 1990 年代末才被淘汰 沿水道兩岸就是著名的棚屋, 那是蜑家漁民的家, 以樁柱搭成支架, 建於靠岸的海床上 建造棚屋的木材以杉木 坤甸木和紅木為主, 能防止海水侵蝕, 卻不防火 2000 年這裡曾發生嚴重火災, 燒燬近百棚屋, 令不少居民痛失家園 火災後重建的棚屋, 改以鋅鐵及水泥為材料 過了橋來到街市街, 不遠處有座香火鼎盛的關帝廟, 廟對面是大澳碩果僅存的大牌檔其記, 是兩代人經營的老字號, 以凍檸檬茶和烘多士馳名 附近還有多個小攤檔, 賣炭烤魷魚 咖喱魚蛋 炭燒雞蛋仔等 此外還有地道的茶粿, 這種源自客家人的美食, 以糯米粉搓成外皮, 再包上鹹或甜的餡料, 甜的有花生芝麻, 鹹的有眉 ON THE WESTERN COAST of Hong Kong s Lantau Island is the fishing village of Tai O. At its heart is a tidal canal, filled with boats and edged by traditional stilt houses. Rising out of the water, these structures give Tai O an appearance that has led some locals to call the village the Venice of Hong Kong. Although many visitors are lured by the unusual collection of buildings, Tai O also presents an opportunity to experience its slower pace of life. The boutique Tai O Heritage Hotel opened its doors in 2012, inviting guests to spend more than just an afternoon within the quiet community. Frequently fully booked, the hotel s popularity has given rise to a number of enterprising locals launching homestays and bed and breakfasts. The village is relatively far from Hong Kong s downtown areas and the easiest way to reach it is to take a 40-minute bus ride from Tung Chung on Lantau s northern coast. Arriving at the Tai O bus terminus, and before encountering the canal and stilt houses, visitors first come to Wing On Street. Here, seafood shops try to entice customers by hanging dried fish maw, oysters and shrimp at their entrances. A little April 2014 Horizon 29

30 旅行專題 香港 // Travel-Hong Kong // 大澳地道風味 TAI O S AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS 鄭祥興蝦醬鄭祥興蝦醬廠在大澳非常著名, 有 130 多年歷史, 出產的蝦膏 蝦醬皆由大澳附近水域捕獲的小銀蝦製成 製作蝦膏時, 先用石磨把銀蝦磨爛, 加鹽後置於竹篩上, 然後放在陽光下曝曬, 蒸發水分, 變得堅硬 食用時需用油煮開, 鹹中帶鮮 至於製作蝦醬, 銀蝦不用石磨, 只加大量鹽巴, 用棍搗成醬後, 置於大桶之內, 放在陰涼處發酵 然後曝曬三次, 每次七 八小時, 味道較蝦膏更香, 不需用油煮開, 可直接用來炒菜 Cheng Cheung Hing shrimp sauce With more than 130 years of history, the Cheng Cheung Hing shrimp-sauce factory is a Tai O institution. Its shrimp paste and sauces are made from locally caught silver shrimp. To make shrimp paste, a stone grind is used to crush the shrimp. Salt is later added and the shrimp dried under the sun on bamboo sieves. When the paste is used in dishes, it is first cooked in oil. Shrimp sauce is made with large amounts of salt and shrimp, which are pounded into a mush using a pestle before being placed in vats and fermented in the shade. The mixture then spends time under the sun. The result is a sauce that is more pungent than shrimp paste and does not need to be pre-cooked in oil. 插鹽密肚鹹魚插鹽密肚鹹魚, 是大澳漁民的絕活 漁民將捕來的魚整條不用刀剖開, 只用鈎以特別的技巧, 從魚嘴挖出內臟, 再將鹽塞到魚肚內, 曬乾後味道比一般鹹魚更佳 這種醃鹹魚的技巧幾近失傳, 現在只有一兩間店舖仍有師傅懂得這門手藝 街市街一號的順利號, 每年 5 月, 都有本地密肚馬友 鰽白鹹魚出售, 馬友可以加薑絲清蒸, 或切碎用來炒菜 鰽白則宜先蒸後煎, 皮脆肉香, 蘸砂糖吃, 風味尤佳 海味如蠔鼓 ( 上圖 ) 等在大澳的街道 ( 最右圖 ) 隨處有售大澳文物酒店 ( 右圖 ) 供應的下午茶 ( 下圖 ), 特別加入當地特色小食 Dried seafood, such as oysters (above), is a major product sold along Tai O s streets (far right) Afternoon tea sets (below) at the Tai O Heritage Hotel (right) include popular local snacks Salt-stuffed fish Salt-stuffed fish is a specialty of Tai O fisherfolk. Fish innards are removed by hook, through the mouth; salt is then stuffed into the belly and the fish sundried to produce a salted fish. Only a few shops remain with people who know how to carry out the process. Shun Lee Hou at 1 Market Street sells saltstuffed local threadfin and white sea bass every May. The threadfin can be steamed with ginger strips or chopped up and added to stir-fried vegetables. The white sea bass is best steamed then fried. Dip its crispy skin and meat in sugar for a tasty treat. 30 Horizon April 2014

31 IMAGES. Oyster handler: Getty Images. Street stalls: Martin Williams. Hotel, tea set and stilt houses (previous pages): courtesy of Tai O Heritage Hotel 豆花生, 用竹籠即蒸即賣 清明節前後, 更會以當地生長的植物雞屎藤製成茶粿, 是味道清香的時令食品 其記所在的吉慶街, 有間蓮香酒家, 有四十多年歷史, 以海鮮馳名 沿吉慶街一直走, 村居民宅的大門都敞開, 屋內有人在搓麻將, 屋外有人在洗晾衣物, 遊客可以近距離感受當地居民的生活 自大澳文物酒店於 2012 年開業以來, 過夜旅客的數目日多, 由於酒店房間供應有限, 漁村內也有人開設民宿接待旅客 吉慶街中段, 有一幢由舊村屋改建而成的小型民宿, 樓高三層, 名為歸田園居 經營這間民宿的 Veronica 姓陳, 是原居民, 她將地下變成咖啡館, 分室內和露天部分, 露天茶座種滿植物, 氣氛悠閒 一 二樓共四間客房, 其中兩間有露台, 可眺望街景 天台設按摩浴池, 是鬆弛身心的最佳地方 Veronica 表示 : 我經營民宿, 是希望遊人可以住下來, 感受大澳居民的生活, 慢慢欣賞這裡迷人之處, 從而推廣保育大澳的信息 如何前往 HOW TO GET THERE 從東涌坐 11 號巴士可達 ; 也可在著名的天壇大佛附近的寶蓮禪寺乘坐 21 號巴士前往 Take the No. 11 bus from Tung Chung, which is on the MTR network. Alternatively, take the No. 21 bus to Tai O from the Po Lin Monastery, home to the giant Tian Tan Buddha statue. farther along the street is the main waterway that separates Tai O from the rest of Lantau Island, and along both banks are the famous stilt houses of the Tanka fisherfolk. These dwellings were originally built on the seabed using piles and frames made of hardwood resistant to seawater. Though tough, these woods were still susceptible to fire and, in 2000, a blaze destroyed close to 100 stilt houses, spurring many villagers to seek safer construction methods and rebuild their stilt homes using concrete pilings and zinc sheeting. Until recent decades, the only way to cross the canal was by boat, and a rope-drawn ferry provided this service to the public. The ferry ceased operations in the late 1990s, after 80 years of service, and these days a sturdy drawbridge allows pedestrians to cross the water to the other side of the village. Running alongside the canal is Kat Hing Street, where visitors can take a closer peek into the lives of the village s residents. Through the usually wide-open doors of local homes, people can be seen playing games of mahjong and the streets themselves are a bustle of activity. Also on Kat Hing Street is the long-standing Ki Kei restaurant, a two-generation family operation famous for its cold lemon tea and toast that is one of the few dai pai dong (open-air eateries) in Tai O. All around, however, there are small stalls selling snacks such as chargrilled cuttlefish, curried fish balls and charcoal-baked Hong Kong-style egg waffles. Also available are authentic Hakka teacakes and glutinous rice dumplings with sweet or savoury fillings, which are steamed on the spot in bamboo containers. Hakka teacakes made with Paederia scandens, a local vine in Tai O, have a distinct dark colour and aroma, and they are seasonal delicacies that appear every spring around the Ching Ming Festival, a holiday for visiting ancestors tombs. In the middle of Kat Hing Street is Espace Elastique, a small three-storey bed and breakfast housed in a converted old village residence. Its owner, Tai O native Veronica Chan, has transformed the building s ground floor into a cosy and comfortable café with a plant-filled outdoor terrace. Four rooms occupy the first and second floors, two of which have balconies overlooking the street. The B&B also features a rooftop Jacuzzi for some indulgent relaxation. I opened this homestay in the hope that visitors will stay for a while and enjoy the Tai O residents way of life, Chan says. I hope they appreciate the charms of this place and help to promote its conservation. The Tai O Heritage Hotel, meanwhile, is situated off to the western side of the village and occupies what was previously the Tai O Police Station. Constructed in 1902, the complex is listed as historic April 2014 Horizon 31

32 旅行專題 香港 // Travel-Hong Kong // 寧靜的大澳漁村讓人暫離香港鬧市的繁囂 Tai O s fishing-village ambience provides a break from hectic Hong Kong life 至於位處西面山崗上的大澳文物酒店, 前身為大澳警署, 建於 1902 年, 年前被列為二級歷史建築, 並活化成精品酒店 酒店的助理前堂經理羅家豪表示 : 酒店的設計盡量保存警署原貌 為了不破壞原來的建築, 我們連打一口釘都經過考慮 所有房間的牆壁上都加了一層木板, 將電線等收藏在內, 不用鑿穿牆壁 昔日位於警署地下的報案室, 改建成文物探知中心 ; 其餘地方則改建了九間客房 舊時原有的百葉木窗 英式壁爐 花崗岩石階 長廊外的探射燈等, 悉數保留 二樓的餐廳 Tai O Lookout, 活化前是警署的天台, 現在加建了大型玻璃屋頂, 餐廳內的古董吊燈 卡位座椅等, 均來自 China Tee Club 的捐贈 餐廳供應的三層銀架下午茶, 大澳著名小食如豆腐花 茶粿 雞蛋仔等一應俱全 呷一口紅茶, 坐享窗外樹影婆娑的美景, 悠然自得 意猶未盡的話, 可在海邊欣賞大澳著名的日落美景, 以金黃的晚霞為這一天畫上完美的句號 Open 7 Days a Week Come and Join The Best Parties In Macau

33 IMAGE. courtesy of Tai O Heritage Hotel and was refurbished into a hotel with conservation principles in mind. The hotel is designed to preserve as much of the original police station as possible, says Karl Law, the hotel s Assistant Front Office Manager. In order not to damage the original building, we considered every nail before using it. The walls in each room are covered with wooden panels to conceal new additions, such as wires. The former police report room, on the ground floor, has been converted into an information centre about the area s heritage, while the rest of the two-storey complex has been transformed into nine guest rooms and suites. The station s old wooden window blinds, English-style fireplaces, granite stairs and corridor searchlights have all been restored as part of the preservation effort. The Tai O Lookout restaurant was built on what was previously the station s rooftop, enclosed under a new large glass roof. Its interiors are filled with furniture that previously belonged to the China Tee Club, a historic restaurant in Central district that closed several years ago. Afternoon tea sets, served on three-tiered silver stands, include popular local snacks such as bean-curd pudding, teacakes and egg waffles. Visitors can round off the experience by enjoying the sunset from the shore and views of the village, backed by Lantau s peaks. 相關資料 / WHERE TO GO 食肆 Where to eat 其記 Ki Kei 吉慶街 8 號地下 G/F, 8 Kat Hing Street 蓮香酒家 Lin Heung Restaurant 吉慶街 52 號地下 G/F, 52 Kat Hing Street 住宿 Where to stay 歸田園居 Espace Elastique 大澳文物酒店 Tai O Heritage Hotel 參觀 Where to visit 大澳鄉事委員會歷史文化室 Tai O Rural Committee Historic and Cultural Showroom 永安街 5 號 5 Wing On Street Dragon Restaurant PORTUGESE FOOD 40 Rua da Felicidade, No.40, Macau Tel: (853) / Fax: (853) Business Hours: Daily 12:00pm-3:00pm, 6:00pm-11:00pm PATTY LONG 24 6

34 人物專訪 吳振紅 // Profile-Chan Hon Goh // 文 /Text Al Campbell 攝影 /Photos Kharen Hill 現任教於吳諸傑芭蕾舞學院的吳振紅說, 旅遊經驗可給舞蹈員帶來創作靈感 Be moved: travel can be a source of inspiration for dancers, says Chan Hon Goh of Goh Ballet Academy 舞者足跡 POINTE TO POINTE 作為首席芭蕾舞員, 吳振紅踏遍全球, 但真正能讓她享受到旅行樂趣的, 卻是脫下舞鞋, 拿起教鞭之後 She toured the world as a prima ballerina, but it s in her new role running a dance academy that Chan Hon Goh is rediscovering the art of travel 34 Horizon April 2014

35 旅行專題 地點 // Travel-Xxxxx //

36 人物專訪 吳振紅 // Profile-Chan Hon Goh // 振紅曾經到世界各地巡迴表演芭蕾舞 20 多年, 並以加拿大國家芭蕾舞團首席舞蹈員的身份而廣為人知 這位出生於北京的芭蕾舞者 2009 年宣佈退休, 其後在溫哥華吳諸傑芭蕾舞學院擔任藝術總監一職 新工作仍然以舞蹈為主, 也經常要出國公幹, 最大的分別是, 從前, 雖然每年有五個月巡迴演出, 但作為舞蹈員, 行李要比現在輕得多 她解釋 : 舞蹈員大部分時間都要穿舞台服飾, 個人衣物反而沒那麼重要, 只有需要出席晚宴時才會穿上漂亮的禮服 現在交際應酬較多, 所以行李比以前重許多 吳諸傑芭蕾舞學院由吳振紅父母於 1978 年創辦, 目前有將近 500 個學生, 旨在向大眾推廣芭蕾舞這門藝術 去年, 吳振紅與父母獲頒發英女皇鑽禧紀念獎章, 肯定了他們一家人對加拿大藝術與文化的貢獻 吳振紅記得, 當芭蕾舞蹈員時, 最開心就是到世界各地的陌生城市表演, 但對於當時的她來說, 探索這些城市卻不是最重要的事 她表示 : 如果可以在演出之後多留幾天的話, 我很想去體驗那些城市的不同生活 問題在於, 對一個舞者而言, 有機會放一天假的話, 就應該盡量休息, 不要走太多路或進行太多活動, 必須在兩者之間作出平衡 然而, 吳振紅還是有許多到他鄉遊歷的機會, 惹人羨慕 蘇格蘭的愛丁堡是其中一個讓她特別難忘的地方, 當時, 她清晨飛抵愛丁堡, 並辦妥酒店入住手續, 卻因為時差而不能入睡, 於是徒步到當地著名的城堡 她說 : 我於 2006 年 8 月參加愛丁堡國際藝術節的表演, 看到整個城市充滿活力, 由街頭表演到劇院裡來自世界各地的演出, 到處都有不同的活動 當地的風景 山丘等等, 這一切都讓我留下深刻印象 36 Horizon April 2014

37 吳振紅親自設計的芭蕾舞鞋 PRINCIPAL by Chan Hon Goh Goh designs her own line of ballet shoes, PRINCIPAL by Chan Hon Goh FOR MORE THAN 20 years, Chan Hon Goh travelled the world as a ballerina, most notably as the principal dancer of the National Ballet of Canada. The Beijing-born dancer hung up her pointe shoes in 2009, but dance, and travel, remain a big part of her role as the Director of the Goh Ballet Academy in Vancouver. One big difference back then, as a dancer on the road five months of the year, was how lightly she packed. Our wardrobe was very much on the stage, Goh says. Clothes didn t matter too much, except for the occasional gala reception when I would wear a very fancy dress. Now I have a lot more face time with people, so my suitcases are a little fuller. Nearly 500 students attend the academy founded by her parents in 1978 through which Goh strives 吳振紅告別舞台之後, 在溫哥華的吳諸傑芭蕾舞學院 ( 上圖 ) 悉心培育下一代 With her performing days behind her, Goh mentors a new generation of dancers at the Goh Ballet Academy in Vancouver (above) to bring ballet to the masses. Their efforts were recognised last year when Goh and her parents received the Queen Elizabeth II Diamond Jubilee Medal for their contributions to the arts and culture in Canada. While Goh has fond memories of being a dancer and visiting new countries around the world, exploring these new cities wasn t always a priority. When I had extended stays, I would try to experience what was going on in the city. The challenge, of course, is that whenever dancers get a day off, we really should be resting and not walking around and being too active. It was always a little bit of a balancing act. Nevertheless, Goh enjoyed an enviable amount of sightseeing in far-flung destinations. She says Edinburgh, Scotland, was a particularly memorable place: after arriving in the early morning and checking into her hotel, she tried to get over her jet lag by trekking up to the city s famed castle. When I danced at the Edinburgh International Festival in August 2006, the city was so alive, she says. There was a buzz from all the activities, street performers and theatres presenting shows from around the world. The scenery, the hills and everything, it left a wonderful impression. In the United States, Goh spent long periods with ballet companies in Washington DC and New York City, and recommends both for their monuments, museums and history, and for their inspiring qualities. April 2014 Horizon 37

38 人物專訪 吳振紅 // Profile-Chan Hon Goh // 她也曾在美國首都華盛頓和紐約市的芭蕾舞團擔任舞蹈員, 而且時間頗長 兩個城市她都喜歡, 因為當地有許多名勝古跡 博物館, 悠久歷史, 表演者更可以從這兩個地方獲得啟發 她說 : 你不需要刻意去尋找靈感, 我通常不會這樣做, 但自然會有某些東西讓你印象特別深刻, 悄悄地留在你的記憶裡 你可能曾經看到一座雕像, 或是讀到牆上某些令你感動的文字 多年之後, 當你要扮演某個角色時, 就會突然回想起人生的某個經驗, 將它套用在舞台上, 使表演更生動感人 吳振紅有一名兒子, 年紀只有八歲, 但她已經開始計劃帶兒子前往她去過的地方旅行 我兒子熱愛藝術, 他喜歡畫畫, 以及進劇院看表演 我想再等一 兩年, 就會帶他去倫敦 巴黎和紐約 在這些地方, 他會吸收到許多有關藝術的知識 It s not like you go for inspiration I don t do that but it s inevitable that there will be certain things that will be very memorable and leave their mark unexpectedly, she says. You might see a sculpture or read something on a wall that will touch your soul deeply. Years later, when coming to do a character, you think back to an experience and it adds something to what you are doing on stage. With her son now eight years old, Goh is considering taking him to many of the same places she s visited over the years. My son is very much into the arts. He loves to draw and going to the theatre. I m just waiting a year or two longer before I take him to London, Paris and New York. There is so much that he can take in there. 旅遊裝備 / TRAVEL ESSENTIALS 舒適的衣物與可跟外界保持聯繫的高科技產品都是吳振紅收拾行裝時首要考慮的 Comfort and connectivity are key to Goh s travel packing 旅行途中的必備物品? What must-have items do you travel with? 那一定是手提電腦, 我靠它跟外界保持聯繫, 但有時我也會擔心, 因為那樣一來, 旅行時也不能放下工作 我也會帶 Kiehl s 和 SK-II 的保濕面霜, 因為旅行會讓我的皮膚變得非常乾燥 Definitely my laptop it keeps me connected. Sometimes I dread having it though because work becomes a part of the travel. I also take Kiehl s and SK-II moisturisers because I get very dry skin when travelling. 你會帶哪些服裝? What outfits do you tend to pack? 可以一物多用的, 比如加些配件就能從日間服飾變成晚裝的衣物 我總是會帶一條優質的披肩或圍巾, 這是我的基本配備 舒適的鞋子也很重要 Things that are versatile and that I can easily add to when going from day to night. I always keep a good shawl or scarf with me as an essential. Comfortable shoes are definitely another. 讓你喜出望外的目的地? What surprising destination would you recommend? 廣州 我有 20 年沒踏足廣州, 直到 2013 年才有機會重遊 我去了廣州大劇院 廣州塔和新圖書館 這個城市的變化讓我大開眼界 Guangzhou. I went there in 2013 for the first time in 20 years and visited the new opera house, the Canton Tower and the new library. It was an eye-opening experience to see how much the city had changed. 你還想去哪些地方? Which destinations do you still want to visit? 印度 在我的旅遊清單上, 印度是我還沒去過但很想去的地方 India. It is one of the places on my travel to-do list that I haven t been able to cross off yet and would love to visit. 你去過的地方中, 哪裡讓你覺得最富異國風情? What place have you visited that seemed totally foreign to you? 以色列是一個沒有親自經歷就無法想像的地方, 其環境氣氛 市集和猶太會堂都讓我感到很新奇 Israel was a place you can t really imagine until you re there the atmosphere, the markets and the synagogues. 38 Horizon April 2014