Time Traveling with Sicily
When speaking of Italian wines, most people would immediately think of the famous wines of Tuscany or Piedmont, but there are regions in the country just as great as those two. In the south of Italy on the very boot of the country lies Sicily, where the ancient vineyards of region have great history and quality. Tuscany Piedmont Historical records show that Sicilian viticulture and wine-making go as far back as the year 1500, when the Phoenicians first began planting grapes on the island, and later the Greeks and Romans brought more planting techniques such as using raisins to make Moscato. Sicily has a colourful history and culture, developing a unique flavour for its wines from the integration of a variety of techniques and grapes. Like many old cultures, Sicily also has its own traditional spirits like Marsala. In the 17th century, Marsala became popular like Port and Sherry due to the need to maintain wine over long-distance sea travel. It is a wine bulked up with grape spirit, and was the first alcoholic beverage to make a name for Sicily. Sicilian wines are largely defined by their unique island varietals like the red grapes Nero d Avola and Nerello Mascalese, and the white grapes Grillo and Insolia. Nero d Avola is one of the indigenous grapes commonly used in the local blends, and is sometimes blended with international varieties such as Syrah. However it is also increasingly made with 100% Nero d Avola, as winemakers seek to promote more of a Sicilian identity on their bottles. Sicily today has 23 DOCs and 1 DOCG, and there are such famous terroirs like the volcanic soil in Mt. Etna. For example Etna Rosso focuses on 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Mantellato, while the island s only DOCG area, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, excels in Nero d Avola and Frappato. 1500 Moscato Marsala Marsala Marsala Marsala 20 Nero d Avola Nerello Mascalese Grillo Insolia Nero d Avola Nero d Avola Syrah 23 DOCDOCG Mt. Etna Etna Rosso 95% Nerello Mascalese 5% Nerello Mantellato DOCGCerasuolo di Vittoria Nero d Avola Frappato In this issue s panel tasting, we bring to you 38 Sicilian wines which reveal the intricacies of this island wine region, as our trusted sommeliers taste them one by one. 38
100 point system / 100 points awarded year of tasting best potential year to taste 96-100 Perfect or nearly perfect wine without any flaws, reaching the highest standards in every aspect, and leaving the drinker wanting more. 88 2012 2020A D drink now A suitable to drink now, but will improve with time K allow more maturing time before enjoying 90-95 85-89 80-84 70-79 60-69 50-59 Outstanding wine in every aspect, precise and alluring Outstanding wine with character, reflects terroir Good quality wine with character, reflects terroir, but not outstanding. Simple and straightforward wine, but with minimal character. Dull or flat wine without character Faulty or unacceptable wine
From Left: Billy Yeung, Ian Symonds, Mabel Lai, Chris Lai, JC Viens, Zachary Yu, Tersina Shieh, Wallace Lo, Hood Hon, Akihiko Nosaka Akihiko Nosaka Billy Yeung Chris Lai
93 2013 2023A JC Viens
Wallace Lo 91 2015 2020K
90 2015 2022K Mabel Lai
90 2015 2017K Tersina Shieh 90 2013 2015A Ian Symonds
90 2013 2016A Zachary Yu 89 2013 2016A Wallace Lo
89 2013 2018A JC Viens 89 2015 2020A Chris Lai 89 2013 2025A Billy Yeung
88 2013 2017D Zachary Yu 88 2013 2023A Wallace Lo 88 2013 2017A Tersina Shieh
88 2013 2020A Zachary Yu 88 2013 2016A Akihiko Nosaka 87 2013 2015D Tersina Shieh
87 2015 2022K Mabel Lai 87 2013 2015D Chris Lai 87 2015 2020A Chris Lai
86 2013 2018A Hood Hon 86 2014 2016A Akihiko Nosaka 86 2013 2016D Akihiko Nosaka
86 2013 2016A Mabel Lai 85 2014 2017A Akihiko Nosaka
90 2015 2018A Chris Lai
Wallace Lo 88 2013 2016A
88 2013 2015D Wallace Lo
87 2013 2018A Billy Yeung 87 2013 2016D JC Viens
87 2013 2015A Mabel Lai 86 2014 2016A Akihiko Nosaka 85 2013 2015D Zachary Yu
86 2013 2017A Zachary Yu 86 2013 2015D Hood Hon 84 2013 2014D Ian Symonds
89 2013 2014D Tersina Shieh 86 2013 2014D Ian Symonds
Sicily is always famous for its Nero D Avola. Nevertheless, the diverse terroir could make a huge varieties of wines, like the Nerello Mascalese made in the cool-climate, high altitude area. The style of wine is very similar to Pinot Noir. Like the one from Pasopisciaro and Duca di Salaparuta, showing some hint of Burgundian wines. For Nero d Avola, many producers are now moving from the heavy, over-ripened style to lighter, more elegant style, just like the Cerasuolo di Vittoria from COS and Gulfi NeroBaronj. White wines give me less surprise, but in good shape. I am really impressed by the value of these wine that is really worth to explore different varieties and wine in this region. Nero d AvolaterroirNerello Mascalese Pinot NoirPassopisciaro Duca di Salaparuta Nero d Avola COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria Gulfi NeroBaronj Red Passopisciaro IGT 2007 It s like a Burgundy, with elegant and subtle fruit character and great nose after breathing. COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2007 The blend with Frappato grape make the rustic and big Nero D Avola more balanced, it comes with great intensity and richness, and soft finishing showing the finesse. Frappato Nero D Avola White Wine Gulfi Carjcanti Bianco 2009 Lively mineral and acidity make this aromatic white wine much more balancing. Sicily has grown in leaps and bounds during the past two decades and is rightfully considered the most exciting wine region in Italy today. Winemakers are taking a step back from using international varieties, and visionary star wineries such as Arianna Occhipinti, COS, Azienda Gulfi, Valle della Acate, and Tenuta delle Terre Nere, who all practice organic agriculture and lowintervention winemaking. The high quality across the board also showed that even though Sicily only has one DOCG in Cerasuolo di Vittoria, excellent wines are made all across the region. Etna in particular is a focal point for many seeking out the wines of Sicily. Our top red wine deservedly came from COS, one of the early super stars of Sicily, demonstrating why Cerasuolo di Vittoria is indeed so highly regarded. Pure, complex, and exciting, it was unanimously the most representative of this lovely terroir with 100% local varieties. The top white wine on the other hand, Valle della Acate Bidis 2010, was Inzolia with a touch of Chardonnay, showing how international varieties can help balance the natural appeal of a local favourite. Arianna Occhipinti COS Azienda Gulfi Valle della Acate Tenuta delle Terre Nere DOCGCerasuolo di Vittoria Etna COSCerasuolo di Vittoria 100% Valle della Acate Bidis 2010 InzoliaChardonnay