The Heart Sutra 佛説摩訶般若波羅蜜多心經 BUSSETSU M A KA HAN NYA HA RA M I TA SHIN GYOU The Heart of the Perfection of Wisdom Sutra. 観自在菩薩, 行深般若波羅蜜多時, K A N JI Z

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1 My O Henro San Acknowledgement, thanks and notes to this diary I w ish to express m y deepest gratitude and lo ve to the K o o b o o D a ishi, the B u d d has, B o d h isattvas and Jizoo B osatsu f or being w i t h m e o n the O H e n r o San. I than k the m f r o m the b otto m o f m y heart f o r their g u i dance, protection, blessings, teachi ngs, patience and support the y ga ve m e d uring this j o urney. I also a m grateful and of fer m y than ks to the henro that I m et o n this pilgri m age f o r their f r iendship, support and ad v ice along the w ay, especiall y H a nafusa-san and K o j i, as w e l l as the k i n d people o f S hi k o k u f or their h ospitability, generosity, and the m a n y osettai the y besto wed o n m e. M y special than ks g o to N a h o k o w h o shared w i t h m e the highs and l o ws o f m y p ilgri mage, provided m e w i t h lo ve and support at all ti mes, and m a de m e laugh at m y o w n m iser y w h e n things w e re tough. A n d I a m especiall y grateful to her f o r m a k i n g the dail y b o o k i n gs at h otels, r y o kans and m i nshu k us, w i t h o ut w h i c h I m i g ht ha ve had to sleep rough at ti mes. T he diary, as it is w r itten here, is basicall y w h at I w r ote w h i lst being o n the j ourney. It has a m i n i m al n u m ber o f edits, as I w a nted f o r m y e m oti ons and feelings to be reflected that I experienced at the ti me o f w r i ting. M y lo ve, gratitude and b lessings g o to all. A r m i n H o w a l d O c t o ber

2 The Heart Sutra 佛説摩訶般若波羅蜜多心經 BUSSETSU M A KA HAN NYA HA RA M I TA SHIN GYOU The Heart of the Perfection of Wisdom Sutra. 観自在菩薩, 行深般若波羅蜜多時, K A N JI Z A I B O S A G Y O U JI N H A N N Y A H A R A M I T A JI W h e n the B o d h isattva A v alo k ites vara w as practicing the deep Perfection o f W i s d o m, 照見五蘊皆空, 度一切苦厄, S H O U K E N G O U N K A I K U U D O I S S A I K U Y A K U he intuiti vel y percei ved that the f i ve aggregates are all e m pt y; thus passed be y o n d all suffering and diffic ulty. 舎利子, 色不異空, 空不異色, S H A R I S H I S H I K I F U I K U U K U U F U I S H I K I Sariputra, f o r m d oes n ot differ f r o m e m ptiness, and e m ptiness d oes n ot differ f r o m f o r m. 色即是空, 空即是色, S H I K I S O K U Z E K U U K U U S O K U Z E S H I K I F or m is e m ptiness, and e m ptiness is f o r m; 受想行識, 亦復如是, J U S O U G Y O U S H I K I Y A K U B U N Y O Z E the sa me is true f or feelings, perceptions, f or mations, and c onsciousness. 舎利子, 是諸法空相, S H A R I S H I Z E S H O H O U K U U S O U Sariputra, these are the characteristics o f the e m ptiness o f all d har mas: 不生不滅, 不垢不浄, 不増不減, F U S H O U F U M E T S U F U K U F U J O U F U Z O U F U G E N T he y neither arise n or cease, are neither de filed n or p ure, neither i nc rease n or decrease. 是故空中, 無色無受想行識, Z E K O K U U J U U M U S H I K I M U J U S O U G Y O U S H I K I T herefore, i n e m ptiness there is n o f o r m, n o feelings, perceptions, f or m ations, or consciousness; 無眼耳鼻舌身意, 無色聲香味触法, M U G E N N I B I Z E S S H I N N I M U S H I K I S H O U K O U M I S O K U H O U N o eye, ear, n ose, ton gue, b o dy, or m i n d; N o f o r m, sound, s mell, taste, touc h, or m i n d o b ject; 無眼界, 乃至無意識界, M U G E N K A I N A I S H I M U I S H I K I K A I N o eye sense-sphere, u ntil w e c o me to n o consciousness sense-sphere, 無無明, 亦無無明盡, 乃至無老死, 亦無老死盡, M U M U M Y O U Y A K U M U M U M Y O U JI N N A I S H I M U R O U S H I Y A K U M U R O U S H I JI N N o ignorance n or the ending o f i g n orance, u ntil w e c o me to n o o l d age and death n or the ending o f old age and death; 無苦集滅道, M U K U J U U M E T S U D O U 2

3 N o T r uth o f S uf fering, C a use o f Su f fering, C essation o f S uf fering, n or Path to the C essation o f suf fering. 無智亦無得, 以無所得故, M U C H I Y A K U M U T O K U I M U S H O T O K K O T here is n o w isdo m, n or is there attain ment, f o r there is n othing to be attained. 菩提薩埵, 依般若波羅蜜多故, B O D A I S A T T A E H A N N Y A H A R A M I T A K O B e cause B o d h isattvas rel y o n the Perfection o f W i s d o m. 心無罣礙, 無罣礙故, S H I N M U K E G E M U K E G E K O N o t h i n g o bstructs their m i n ds. B e cause o bstructions exist n ot, 無有恐怖, 遠離一切顛倒夢想, 究竟涅槃, M U U K U F U O N R I I S S A I T E N D O U M U S O U K U U G Y O U N E H A N the y ha ve n o fear and pass far be y o n d all illusio ns and i magination and a wa ken to u lti mate N i r vana. 三世諸佛 依般若波羅蜜多故, S A N Z E S H O B U T S U E H A N N Y A H A R A M I T A K O A l l the B u d d has o f the past, present, and f uture, b y rel y i n g o n the Perfection o f W i s d o m, 得阿耨多羅三藐三菩提, T O K U A N O K U T A R A S A N M Y A K U S A N B O D A I attain U nsur passed Perfect E n l i g hten ment. 故知般若波羅蜜多, K O C H I H A N N Y A H A R A M I T A T herefore, k n o w that the Perfection o f W isdo m 是大神咒, 是大明咒, 是無上咒, 是無等等咒, Z E D A I JI N S H U Z E D A I M Y O U S H U Z E M U J O U S H U Z E M U T O U D O U S H U is the great m y sterious m a ntra, the great m a ntra o f illu m i nation, the supre me m a ntra, the u nequaled m a ntra 能除一切苦, 真實不虚, N O J O I SS A I K U S H I N JI T S U F U K O w h i c h can re m o ve all suf fering, and is true and n ot false. 故説般若波羅蜜多咒, 即説咒曰, K O S E T S U H A N N Y A H A R A M I T A S H U S O K U S E SS H U W A T S U T herefore is said the M a ntra o f the Per fection o f W isdo m: 羯諦羯諦, 波羅羯諦, 波羅僧羯諦, 菩提薩婆訶, G Y A T E I G Y A T E I H A R A G Y A T E I H A R A S O U G Y A T E I B O JI S O W A K A G A T E G A T E P A R A G A T E P A R A S A M G A T E B O D H I S V A H A 般若心經 H A N N Y A S H I N G Y O U T he H eart S utra. * * * 3

4 20 June 2009 T he Heart S utra... T he w o r ds that I w i l l be spea k i n g m a n y ti mes o ver the ne xt fe w m o nths, at least 1 76 ti mes, t w ice at ever y te m p le. I ha ve had the desire to w a l k the O H e n r o San f or close to three years, ever since N a h o k o and I v isited the C i t y o f K o c h i i n W h i le w e w e re there I felt a strange sense o f déjà vu about ha v i n g been i n Shi k o k u in a pre v i o us life and, o n seeing the occasional henro o n the road, created in m e the desire, m a y be the need, f or e m bar k i n g o n this j ourne y o f 1,200 k i l o metres and 88 te m p les. M u c h has happened since that ti me. M y relationship w i t h N a h o k o has bec o me m o re beauti f ul, deeper, and f reer, despite a v er y scar y m o m e nt last y ear in the U K that I had thought w o u l d spell the end o f o ur relationship. W h at w as just a f leeting thought and desire i n 2006 beca me, o ver ti me, reality. I w as per m itted to take 4 ½ m o nths leave w i t h o ut pa y f r o m w o r k, and I tried to read as m u c h as there w as about the journe y ahead. R ealisi ng that n othing I d read w o u l d realisticall y prepare m e f o r the experience. I realise that learni ng the H eart Sutra o f f b y heart w o u l d be a c hallenge, b ut I a m h o peful to be able to m aster it b y the ti me I f i nish m y j o urney. A p art f r o m the H eart S utra, there is the pilgri m s oath that I need to take before e m bar k i n g o n the journey. Pilgrim Oaths D u r i n g the pilgri mage 1. I w i l l belie ve that the K o b o D a ishi w i l l save all li v i n g beings and that he w i l l al wa ys be w i t h m e. 2. I w i l l n ot c o m p lain i f things d o n ot g o w e l l w h i le o n the pilgri m age, b ut consider such experiences to be part o f ascetic training. 3. I belie ve that all can be saved i n the present w o r l d and I w i l l co ntinuall y ask to be able to achie ve enlighten ment. T he Ten C o m m a n d m ents see m a little easier f or m e b ut, gi ven m y propensit y f o r exaggeration and b oasting, so me m i g ht be a little m o re d i f f ic ult to achie ve than others. A co uple o f the m at least, the 2 nd and 3 rd I d o n t thin k I should ha ve too m a n y proble ms w i t h though I d ne ver k n o w w h at c hallenges and tests the K o b o D a ishi w i l l be thro w i n g m y w ay. Ten Commandments 1. I w i l l n ot har m li fe. 2. I w i l l n ot steal. 3. I w i l l n ot c o m m it adultery. 4. I w i l l n ot tell a lie. 5. I w i l l n ot exaggerate. 4

5 6. I w i l l n ot speak abusi vely. 7. I w i l l n ot equi v ocate. 8. I w i l l n ot be greedy. 9. I w i l l n ot be hateful I w i l l n ot l ose sight o f the T r uth. The Henro s Gear K o n g o z ue the w a l k i n g stic k, signi f y i n g the K o b o D a ishi and the support he w i l l g i ve m e d uring the journey. A l s o the gra ve m a r ker in olden da ys, w h e n the pilgri m d ied o n the journey. H a k u i (long sleeved) or O i z uru (short sleeved) w h ite v est also the henro s f u neral shroud. W a gesa the stole, indicatin g o ne s co m m it ment to the O H e n r o San so me say it signi f ies a hol y person. S u gegasa the c onical hat, signi f y i n g o ne s c offin. Juzu or N e z u the rosary. N o k y o c h o the te m p le sta m p b o o k. O sa me-f u da na me slips. Z u dabu k uro the bag f or the te m p le paraphernalia. K y o o h o n the sutra b o o k. I ncense and candles. Jirei - s mall bell to help the henro to f ocus o n the j o urney. It is also custo mar y f or a pilgri m to m a ke a w ish to the K o o b o o D a ishi before setting o ut o n the j o urney. M i n e is v er y si m p le, I belie ve: I N E E D T O K N O W W H A T I N E E D T O L E A R N. T o da y i n f o ur w ee ks ti me I shall be at S y d ne y A i r p ort, w a iting to cla m ber aboard a Q A N T A S f l i g ht. It w i l l be the beginning o f a v er y special journey. 6 July 2009 I spent part o f the w ee ken d thin k i n g about w h at to take to Japan, and this m o r n i n g I w o k e u p feeling a little o ver w hel med about the co m i n g ad venture. M a y be running scared. I co uldn t decide o n w h at to take o n the O H e n r o San, and reading about w h at others had taken m a k es m e even m o re c on f used. D o I ta ke a sleeping bag? W i l l it be too h ot, too cold? Is m y bac k pac k g o i n g to be too hea v y? I f I w a n t to stay o ver n i g ht i n a M i ns hu k u, w i l l there be o ne? W h e re can I w ash and dr y m y c lothes, w h i c h are sure to get ver y d irt y and s mell y? C a n I w ash m y sel f i f I sleep o ut at n i g ht? A l l pre-departure ner ves, so I tell m y sel f. I m sure all w i l l be w e l l at the end. 5

6 7 July 2009 M y f riend F rann y f r o m B a lti m o re M D, w h o m I m et at M a c D o nald s i n G e ne va in w h e n I w as o n an extended tour o f E u r o pe sent m e this m essage last n i g ht: He y A r m i n-d o n't be ner v o us. I f m y m e m o r y ser ves m e correctly, didn't y o u cli m b the H i m a la yas? W e l l, k n o w y o u are o l der, w iser & ha ve that ex perience u n der y o u r belt... so this O'henr y San (whatever;) it'll be a cinch f o r an o le pro li ke y o u. Plus in the old da ys there w e re n o p h o nes, fanc y dr y w ea ve clothes etc...w hen are y o u lea v ing? A n d N a h o k o, n ot g oing w i t h y o u? It'll be reju venating & terri f ic! F o r y o u, this is j ust another c hapter, or f o r that m atter another b o o k i n the E n c y c lopedia's o f the A d v e ntures o f A r m i n H o w a l d. I l oo k f o r w ard to reading so me c hapters ; ) R e la x...there's al wa ys w w.facebo o k.co m/l/;hotels.co m. K i d d i n g! W e l l, n ot really. Y o u roc k! C iao! C o u nt d o w n... " Day 1-2 August Kamiita Town D istance (km) 1 6 Vertical (m) <100 T i m e Ta ken (hrs) 6 Te m p les R y o o zen ji 1 (Vultures Pea k) G o k u ra k u j i 2 (Pure L a n d) K o nsenji 3 (Golden Sprin g) D a i n i ch i j i 4 (Te m p le o f the G reat Su n) Jizooji 5 (Earth B earer s) A n ra k u j i 6 (Everlastin g Jo y) Day One o f m y journey. I g ot a shoc k w h e n I b oarded the o vernight b us at S hinju k u and realised the c urtains w e re to be closed d uring the journey, there w e re n o toilets o n the b us, and m y blan ket had the faintest s mell o f v o m it o n it. C o ntrar y to earlier i ntentions I p o p ped t w o sleeping tablets and g ot at least a fe w h o urs rest. T he rain pelted d o w n as the b us drove through O sa ka in the dar k, and it w as pleasantl y co ol w h e n it p ulled into T o k ushi ma at 0600 hrs. I had a cup o f cof fee and a sand w i c h, b ut this m eant I d m issed the train to the B a n d o Statio n and had to w a it f or 45 m i n utes f or the ne xt. T rains in S hi k o k u d o n t run as o ften as the y d o in T o k y o! Y esterda y had been a lo vel y day, even though N a h o k o and prepared o ursel ves f or n ot seeing each other f or three w ee ks. I m sure I ll m iss sleeping w i t h her, as she w i l l be w i t h m e. N a ota ka and Y a o k o ca me late m o r n i n g, just i n ti me to tr y to assist w i t h the i nstallation o f the w ashing m a c h ine (without success, N a h o k o w i l l ha ve to f i n d a trades man to d o this). W e had l u nc h w i t h the m, and then too k a q uic k trip to S hinju k u to p urc hase a L o nel y P lanet p hrase b o o k (a great relief to m e, because the electronic b o o k that I ha ve d oesn t see m to d o w h at I need) and a batter y charger f o r m y little C a n o n. I g uess I ve d o ne all that I c ould ha ve d o ne. N o w I a m read y f or the f irst step o f tho usands. L a ter i n the da y 6

7 I arri ved at Te m p le #1 and it too k m e so me ti me to f i g ure o ut w h ere the store w as to b u y the henro essentials, and to get the order o f things at the te m p le right. I even spotted the y o u n g, serious m a n w h o d been sitting ne xt to m e o n the o vernight b us f r o m T o k y o. H e o b v i o usl y is also d oing the O H e n r o San. I m sure neither o f us w o u l d ha ve g uessed that the other w as also about to e m bar k o n this j o urney. F i n d i n g the w a y to Te m p les #2 & #3 w as q u ite straight f or w ard. N u m ber 4 turned o ut to be a little tric k ier, m a i n l y because I can t read the street signs, w h i c h p uts m e at a considerable d isad vantage 1. S o I ended u p i n the w r o n g valley, m u c h to the a m use ment o f t w o locals w h o o f fered m e c old tea then drove m e i n their little v an to the D a i n ic hiji. T here w e re d o n uts o n the car par k, a clear sign there m ust also be h o o ns a m o n g the Japanese y o uth. T h is lift I recei ved w as the secon d osettai 2 I d recei ved o n the day. T he f irst I recei ved bet ween Te m p les #2 and #3 w h e n I stopped at the local barbershop f or a head shave (well, al m ost, m y head is n o w c o vered w i t h a 0.5 m m f u r). W h e n I w a nted to pa y f or the ser v ice, the elderl y w o m a n refused to accept the m o ney, saying it w as an osettai. Suc h generous people! A t Te m p le #5 the w o m a n i n the sta m p of f ice o f fered m e a rice ca ke. B y the ti me I d reached Te m p le #5, the heat had bec o me o p pressi ve. T he route to Te m p le #6 l o o ked straight f or w ard o n the m a p w h i c h it reall y w as n t, and a v er y sli m Japanese w o m a n and I k ept f o l l o w i n g each other in turn, and losin g o ur w ay. N a h o k o had b o o ked m e f o r the night into Te m p le #6, and I g ot a reall y n ice roo m w i t h airc onditioning. W h at lu x ur y! T he c oin o perated laundr y w as also v er y m u c h appreciated. T here w as a serv ice in the M a i n H a l l c onducted b y the head priest, a v er y k i n d m a n, w h o later ser ved us beer and sake i n the dining hall. T here w e re about ten henro in the dining roo m, six o f w h i c h are wal k i n g henro. T h ree o f the m spo ke excellent E n g l ish, and t w o had even been to Tas mania. I n the sho w er I n oticed I d de veloped a h orrible heat rash o n m y thighs. I m i g ht w ear short pants to m o rro w. G o t a b it o f sunbur n o n m y ar ms (and p ossibl y head I ha ven t c hec ked), b ut m y legs and feet are f i ne. B rea k fast w i l l be at 0630 hrs, and then it s a 2 1-k i l o m etre w a l k to F u j iidera (#11), w h i c h w i l l be the springboard f o r tac k l i n g the dreaded #12 (Burning M o u ntain) the f o llo w i n g day. Day 2-23 August Yoshinogawa City D istance (km) 2 1 Vertical (m) 300 T i m e Ta ken (hrs) 1 0 Te m p les Juura k u j i 7 (Ten Jo ys) K u m a dai nichi 8 (Bear Valle y) H o o r i n j i 9 (Dhar ma W h eel) 1 A t that ti m e o f m y p i l gri m age I hadn t as y et learned to l oo k f or the l ittle red arro ws and ot her tell tale signs that m a r k the pat h 2 G i f t to henros it is actual l y c onsi dered a gi ft to the K o o b o o D a is hi, and it is n ot allo wed f or a henro to ref use an osettai 7

8 K i r i hataji 1 0 (Cut C l oth) F u j i i dera 1 1 (Wisteria) B rea k fast w as at 0630 and m ost henros w e re o n the road b y I m et the E n g l ish speaking c ouple at Juura k uji again, and w e too k p h otos o f o ne another 3. A m o n k s c hanting c ould be heard f r o m far a way, w h i c h ga ve the v alle y a v er y special a m b iance. It beca me h ot as I trundled to w ar ds Te m p le #8. T w o old w o m e n o f fered m e c old tea after Te m p le #9, and I ad m i red their single, p i n k cactus f l o w er o f w h i c h they see med to be ver y proud. U n f o rtunatel y I left the g uide b o o k and m a ps behind, and after a brief scare about w h at I d d o w i t h o ut the m a ps I w a l ked bac k o ne k i l o metre to retrie ve this v ital tool. Te m p le #10 l o o ked ver y benign o n the m a p, b ut n o o ne had told m e there w o u l d be m o re than 250 steps to cli m b in the m e rciless heat. T hat left m e ex hausted. I d been w o n deri ng w h y I hadn t heard m u c h f r o m K o o b o o D a ishi, b ut he w as clearl y there w h e n I stopped at a s mall store to get so me f o o d. T he elderl y shop keeper asked m e i nto the c oolness o f the shop, then c ut u p ¼ o f a h u ge w ater m e l o n into p ieces and asked m e to sit d o w n to eat the m. A s I w as f i l ling m y w ater b ottles, the f i ve henros f r o m last night also w a l ked b y i nc l uding a y o u n g m a n f r o m T o k y o, K o j i, w h o w i l l be w a l k i n g f or seven da ys before returning bac k to w o r k. T here w as also a henro w h o w as carr y i n g a 2 k g heav y C a n o n ca mera (he d sent h is P C bac k that m o r n i n g, he said), a y o u n g co uple, and a m a n o f about m y age w h o is d oing the O H e n r o San in o ne g o. I crossed the fertile Y os hi no-ga wa (river) f lats as clouds w e re gathering o n the f or m i dable m o u ntain ranges that I ll ha ve to cross to m o rro w. I w as nearl y responsible f o r the injur y o r w o rse o f a w o m a n in Y oshinoga wa C ity, b ut she w as saved b y the K o o b o o D a ishi s i nter vention. I d asked a w o m a n in a par ked car f o r d irections, and she k i n d l y g ot o ut to sho w m e the w a y. A f ter than k i n g her and returning m y b o w, she w a l ked bac k w ards o nto the road, i nto the path o f an o nco m i n g car. I n a f lash I grabbed her ar m and yan ked her o ut o f har m s w a y. T he f i rst drops o f rain began to fall as three henros (Koji) and the o ne w h o is d oing the O H e n r o San i n o ne g o said o ur pra yers at Te m p le #1 1. B u t as w e w a l ked bac k to the Y os hino R y o kan the sk y w as blue again. L a ter j ust had a v er y nice c on versation w i t h H a na f usa san (the m a n w i t h the ca mera) and N a k a ya ma the m a n w h o is d o ing the O H e n r o San in o ne g o he is 64 y ears old. W e tal ked about m a n y things, Japan, A u stralia o ur li ves etc. A s to the q uestion o f w h at m y w ish f o r the O H e n r o San w as, I replied that I w as tr y i n g to f i n d o ut w h at I need to k n o w, and I w a nt to learn m o re about m y sel f. A s f or the m, they b oth h o ped f o r happiness i n their l i ves and g o o d health f o r their fa m i l ies. 3 A t this te m p le I also m et a m a n w i t h o nl y o ne toot h w h o had d o ne the O H e nr o San an i ncredible 406 ti mes i n 62 y eaars, i nc l uding 40 w a l k i n g) 8

9 Day 3-4 August Tokushima City D istance (km) 34 Vertical (m) 1,500 T i m e Ta ken (hrs) Te m p les Shoosanj i 1 2 (Burning M o u n tai n) D a i n i ch i j i 1 3 (Te m p le o f the G reat Su n) T o da y w as tou gh! It began at 0430 hrs w i t h the ascent o f the f irst m o u ntain range in total dar k ness, usin g m y head torc h. I w as a little ner v o us being i n the f o rest o n m y o w n, n ot k n o w i n g an ything about the w o o ds and the (slight) c hance o f gettin g l ost. I m a de stead y progress to the C h o o d o-an (about 600 m etres high) w h ere the trac k f lattened o ut to a lo vel y ri dge w a l k, then it descended a fe w h u n dred m etres (verticall y) to the R y u usui-an (temple), then it w as u p again to the 762 m high Jooren-an. I clearl y felt the presence o f the K o o b o o D a ishi, f o r I w as f l y i n g u p the m o u ntain. I w as c on v i nced he w as carr y i n g the pac k f o r m e! O n the w a y d o w n, again several h u n dred m etres v ertical, I stopped and shouted o n a l oud v o ice K o o b o o D a ishi, arigatoo! -... toooo, ca me bac k the echo f r o m the surro unding m o u ntains. T hen I said pra yers o f than ks: T o m y father f o r h is g u i dance and w h at he had d o ne f or m e, and I said sorr y f o r ne ver tr y i n g to u n derstand hi m. T o m y m o t her f o r the l o ve she d gi ven m e, and I said sorr y f or ne ver sho w i n g m y appreciatio n. T o m y brother C h r istophe f or helping m e to bec o me w h at I a m. T o m y brother H a ns-peter f o r h is eternal f orgi veness even though I had o ften been spiteful and cruel to hi m o ver long periods o f ti me. T o m y sister I rene f o r being the o ne o f m y siblings w h o d best u n derstood m e m ost o f the ti me and f o r being m y sister-i n-ar ms. A n d I than ked and sent m y lo ve to N a h o k o, the true lo ve o f m y life, and the star that is l o o k i n g after m e. V arious reports I had read tal ked about the horrors o f the B u r n i n g M o u ntain Te m p le, and to be prepared to w a l k f or six h o urs f r o m Te m p le #1 1. A g a i n I f le w u p the last t w o k i l o m etres o f steep trac k, and f o u n d m y sel f o n a beauti f u l, w i de gra veled path o verl oo ked b y i m p ressi ve granite sculptures o f D e ities and their protectors. T he te m p le itself is v er y beauti f ul, nestling in a 650 year o ld cedar f o rest. I m ust ha ve been o ne o f the f i rst o nes there, f or there w e re o nl y f i ve candles b urning, and n o ne o f the m l it b y w a l k i n g henros. I g ot a real thrill seeing the B u r n ing M o u ntain sta m p p ut i n m y no k y ocho, the te m p le b o o k. T hen I headed d o w n the steps f r o m the te m p le. A t the beginning o f the w a l k w a y I m et a v er y s weaty K o j i w h o m I d f i rst m et at Te m p le #4, w h o d left at 0500 hrs and also intended to w a l k to Te m p le #13. 9

10 T he trail lead steepl y d o w n w a rd f r o m the m o u ntain f or a fe w k i l o metres, then w e nt u p again f or a w h i le. A b o ut as steep as the T r u gannini T rac k in H o bart, o n l y 1 ½ ti mes as l o n g. O n ce o n top, a pa ved road led to K a m i ya ma T o w n, about seven k i l o metres f u rther o n, o n the v alle y f l o or. I t w as pleasantl y w a r m, w i t h a c ooling breeze c o m i n g f r o m the m o u ntain. O n ce I reached the searing heat o f the valle y f l o or, though, I felt m y energ y draining a way. T he heat reflecting o f f the pa ve me nt see med to suc k u p an y o x y gen there w as. B u t there w e re still eight to ten k i l o m etres to g o. T he stops beca me m o re and m o re f requent, and f i nall y I had to rest ever y 300 m etres or so. I had reached the p o int o f ex haustion. A t last, at around hrs, I reached the Te m p le o f the G reat S un. T he M i ns h u k u M y o zai is l ocated right ne xt to Te m p le #13. I m happy, because I c ouldn t ha ve w a l ked m u c h f u rther. T he grand m o t her too k m y w et clothes o f f m e (ho w bad the y s melled!!!) and sho wed m e to the o f uro bathroo m. D i n ner is about to be served, and I ve al m ost f i n ished a b ottle o f A sa hi D r y. I ve bec o me ver y partial to Japanese beer that and ice crea m! Day 4-5 August Komatsushima City D istance (km) 30 Vertical (m) 400 T i m e Ta ken (hrs) 9.5 Te m p les Joora k u j i 1 4 (Everlasting Peace) K o k u b u n j i 1 5 (Official State) K a n-o n ji 1 6 (Avalo k ites vara) I d o j i 1 7 (Well) O n zanji 1 8 (Gratitude M o u n tain) Tatsueji 1 9 (Arisin g a B a y) T o da y w as l ong and relati vel y f lat, and n ot q u ite as h ot as the pre v i o us da ys had been. T he O H e n r o R oad too k m e n orth w ards f r o m Te m p le #13 to Te m p le #17, w h ere I again turned south. F or the f o llo w i n g t w o h o urs I w a l ked through the cit y o f T o k ushi ma. I had been l oo k i n g f or w ard to a g lass o f iced co f fee and a M o n t B lanc C a ke (topped w i t h c hestnut p uree) and an apple pie, b ut n o cof fee shops w e re to be f o u n d en route, even though I w as w a l k i n g through the capital o f the prefecture o f T o k ushi ma. P lent y o f p har macies and hairdressers, b ut that w as n t w h at I w as after. N o o n ca me and I hadn t eaten f or six h o urs, and n ot drun k suf ficient w a ter. I felt I w as beginning to act and feel irrational, a sure sign o f deh y dration. So I d uc ked into a f r uit shop and b o u g ht six m a n darines, w h i c h I ate at the ne xt corner, j ust sitting o n the pa ve me nt. T hat m ust ha ve been a sight! A l ittle f u rther d o w n the road I b o u g ht a sand w i c h that I g o b b led u p as I w as w a l k i n g. I had just reached R o ute 55 (the R oad to M u r oto C a pe) w h e n a y o u n g m a n o n a b i ke stopped and of fered m e a b ottle o f ice cold P ocari S w eat. W h e n I of fered hi m the osa me-f u da, m y 1 0

11 na me-slip that c ontains the blessings o f K o o b o o D a ishi (as is the required custo m), he reached i nto his p oc ket and o f fered m e a 1,000 y en n ote. I than ked hi m w i t h tears i n m y eyes and felt u p li fted as I c ontinued m y journey. A n d I b o w e d to the K o o b o o D a ishi and asked hi m to gi ve that m a n his special blessings. Te m p le #18 too k a bit o f searchi ng w h i c h I eventuall y f o u n d after hal f an h o ur o f f o l l o w i n g false trails, then I set o ur f or the last f o ur k i l o metres f o r the day. I n itiall y the trail lead through a beauti f u l ba m b o o f o rest w i t h a deep h ollo w road ha v i n g been eroded b y henros feet o ver h u n dreds o f y ears. I n order to reach the Tatsueji, it is necessary to cross the Tatsue-ga w a. T he bridge spanning the ri ver is a spiritual c hec k p o int, w h ere it is said that people w i t h an i m p u re heart w i l l be refused to cross. I stopped at the bridge and than ked the K o o b o o D a ishi f or his g uidance and being w i t h m e since the co m m e nce me nt o f the j ourney, and asked h i m to g i ve m e the p ure heart to enable m e to cross. T hen I w a l ked across, carefull y ensuring I w o u l d n ot tap the k o n g oz ue o n its surface 4. #19 is an absolute ge m o f a te m p le, and a reall y l o vel y p lace to f i nish the da y s w a l k. T he people at the M i ns h u k u F u na-n o-sato are reall y f riendly, and the m eal (ten dishes incl uding a special l ocal soba) is si m p l y a maz ing. I told the m o f m y p lans o f leaving at 0500 hrs to m o rro w, and they said the y d gi ve m e an o bentoo as an osettai. Day 5-6 August Anan City D istance (km) 24 Vertical (m) 1,000 T i m e Ta ken (hrs) 9.5 Te m p les K a k u r i n j i 20 (Crane F o rest) Tair y u j i 2 1 (Great D ragon) T he O H e n r o San is a little li ke the T o ur de F rance: long, b oring stretches o f f lat ground, i nterspersed w i t h hard m o u ntain top f i n ishes. T o da y w as a m o u ntain stage! L ast night I had asked the h ostess at the m i nshu k u to prepare m e so me rice balls (mochi), because I d intended to skip break fast and be o n the road at 0500 hrs. H o w e ver, I hadn t rec k o ned w i t h the h ospitalit y o f these n ice people. A s I sneaked d o w n the stairs at 0500 hrs, she brought o ut a m a g n i f icent break fast that co uld ha ve fed t w o h u n gr y henro (7 dishes). O n top o f that, she ga ve m e the m o c h i as an osettai. It had rained o n and o f f all night l o n g, and w as still raining w h e n I w as about to leave at 0520 hrs. T he m a n o f fered m e an u m b rella as a gi ft (asking m e to lea ve it so me w here w h e n I didn t need it an y longer) and ga ve m e a b ottle o f f r ozen w ater to c ool m y sel f in the m o u ntains. I w a l ked along the valle y f l o or f o r 9 k m to the to w n o f K a tsuura, then turned left and u p the m o u ntain. Te m p le #20 w as said to be o ne o f the m o re d if f icult o nes, b ut I f o u n d it relati vel y easy. A c oncreted path and occasional steps led to the top. 4 T here is a belief that K o o b o o D a ishi m i g ht be sleepi n g u n der the bri dge. T he origi ns o f this belief g o to a ti m e w h e n the K o o b o o D a ishi w as refused acc o m m o dation o n o ne o f his j our ne ys, and w as required to sleep u n der a bridge. 1 1

12 B i rth g oes w i t h D eath, and F o rtune w i t h M i s f o rtune, I read o n a little inscribed p laque hal f w a y u p the m o u ntain. T he hea vens o pened u p as I said m y pra yers at the te m p le. B u t it w as w a r m and I d i d n t m i n d getting a little w et. A f ter the n o k y ocho (temple b o o k) w as signed I d o n ned the p o nc h o and headed d o w n the m o u ntain. I nearl y stepped o n a h u ge toad that see med to enjo y the w et w eather m o re than I d i d. L i ttle f r o gs ju m ped o ut o f m y w a y, and blue and bro w n-b o d ied crabs held u p their cla ws in a threatening m a n ner. I soon reached the valle y f l o or and crossed the N a ka-ga w a. T hen the path w e nt u p hill again. Te m p le #21 w as said to be o ne o f the m ost difficult o nes f o r w a l k i n g henro (including #12 and 20), b ut I beg to d if fer. A concreted path and steps led all the w a y to the top through a m a g n i f icent o l d cedar and cloud f o rest, w h ere I b o w e d at the te m p le gate. I began m y te m p le routine p utting m y pac k o n a seat, resting m y w a l k i n g staff and d o n ning the sugegasa (sedge hat), p utting o n the w a gesa (stole), w rapping the juzu (rosar y) around m y w r ist, and p utting the z udabu k oro, the w h ite bag w i t h the te m p le paraphernalia o n m y shoulders. T hen I w e nt to c leanse m y sel f at the f o u ntain, b oth hands and the m o uth. N e x t w as the ri nging o f the h u ge bell to announce m y arri val at the te m p le to the D e ities j ust o nce. I al wa ys get particular p leasure ringing the bell and, at this te m p le, the bell to w er w as particularl y beauti f ul. T hen I w e nt to the H o n d o w h ere I lit a candle and three stic ks o f incense. I read the H eart S utra, recited the na me o f the K o o b o o D a ishi three ti mes, and b o w e d and said arigatoo g osai masu. A f ter that I w e nt to the K o o b o o D a ishi s Te m p le and repeated the pra yer routine. A s f or the te m p le itself, the Tair y u ji is a real je wel! It is styled after K o y a San as I ha ve read (and f or this reason also called the W estern K o y a San ) and occupies a large area o n top o f a 6 10 m etre h i g h m o u ntain. T he site is c o vered w i t h enor m o us cedar trees, so me said to be m o re than 1,000 years o ld, and the s w irling clouds created a m y stic at m osphere. T he energ y e manating f r o m this site w as, si m p ly, a maz ing! A f ter say ing m y pra yers I rang the Sakaguc hi-ya i n A n a n C it y to secure a bed f or the n i g ht. A t that ti me it w as around n o o n, and I decided I deser ved the afternoon o f f. S o I w a n dered around the te m p le grounds, soa k i n g u p the energ y o f this sacred site. I felt I w as beco m i n g o ne w i t h the energy. I w as also i ntroduced to organised O H e n r o T ra vel. A s I w as w a iting f or m y te m p le b o o k to be signed, I n oticed a m a n sto w i n g a wa y d ozens o n signed b o o ks into t w o sports bags. A short ti me later the cable car arri ved, d isgorging a group o f bus henro w h o w e nt directl y to the H o n d o (main te m p le) w i t h o ut the ritual w ashing or ringing the bell. T here the leader recited the sutras and others tried to f o l l o w, to the rh yth m o f a s mall clap stic k. T hen the y rushed bac k to the R o pe W a y Statio n f o r their j ourne y d o w n the valle y and presu mably the ne xt te m p le. A s I a m w r iting, a group o f about 20 elderl y Japanese (mainl y w o m e n) just ca me o f f the E hi me B us and trudged into the r y o kan. I c ouldn t help feeling a little superior, ha v i n g c onquered t w o o f the m o re d i f f ic ult te m p les o n f o ot. 1 2

13 A s to m y staff, the k o n g ozue, it l oo ks tattered and definitel y w o rse f or w ear. It is f ra yed at the b otto m and I ve lost the bell o n the w ay. T he staff m ust be cleaned at the end o f the da y and p laced i n an honored p lace, p ossibl y the alco ve, i n the roo m. M y b ottle o f A sa hi D r y is e m p ty. T o m o rro w it w i l l be Te m p les #22 and 23, and I ll be seeing the sea again. L a ter T he Sa kaguc hi-ya isn t too bad a place to stay. M i d afternoon I again m et K o j i w h o w as also f i n ished f o r the day. H e ll be w a l k i n g to Te m p le #23, then g o bac k to w o r k in K a naga wa. Day 6-7 August Mugi Town D istance (km) 43 Vertical (m) 1, 100 T i m e Ta ken (hrs) 1 2 Te m p les B y o o d o j i 22 (Te m p le o f E q ual it y) Ya k u o o j i 23 (Medicine K i n g) I f there w as ever a tough day, this w as the o ne! It began i n a ver y benign m a n ner, w a l k i n g u p a beauti f ul valle y w i t h an abundance o f rice f ields. T h is ga ve w a y to w a l k i n g o n a ridge, o n the left o f w h i c h w as a dense cedar f o rest, o n the right ba m b o o. I w as earl y at Te m p le #22, then headed f or Te m p le #23, 1 9 k ms f u rther o n. N ear the A w a K u k u i I had to decide w h ether to g o to the seaside to w n o f Y u k i, or d o the shorter w a l k along R o ute 55. I c hose Y u k i. I stopped f or a pra yer w h e n I caught the f irst gli m pse o f the sea. A s I w as in c o m m u n ication w i t h the K o o b o o D a ishi, a b uzzard ca me f l y i n g close by. T he ele ments o f w ater and air. N a h o k o s and m i ne... I reached Y u k i around lunchti me and p osted so me o f the things I hadn t used (and w as u n li kel y to use) bac k to N a h o k o: to wel, belt, singlet, and a long sleeved ski v v y. I d ne ver need this i n this heat! O t her ite ms, such as the drin k i n g c up, chopstic ks, fan, thongs had f o u n d their w a y i nto rubbish b i ns earlier. T he coastline around Y u k i w as breathtakingly beauti f ul, and I w o u l d ha ve lo ved to take m o re ti me to take pictures. I i nitiall y w a l ked u p o n the w r o n g side o f the stairs at Te m p le #23, b ut a w o m a n p ointed that o ut to m e and I h o p ped o ver the rails to d o the right thing (left o n the w a y u p). T here w e re steps i n all, incl uding 42 special o nes f or m e n, 33 f o r w o m e n (that corresponds w i t h critical years f o r b oth sexes. B u t m e n and w o m e n see med to be happ y (or j ust ignorant) in usin g either stairs. T he f riendl y m o n k helped m e to m a ke a reser vation at A z u m a M i ns hu k u i n the to w nship o f M u g i. I could ha ve f i n ished m y da y near #23, b ut it w as o nl y hrs and the w eather w as f i ne, and n ot too h ot. A s I w a l ked o n I reflected o n w h at I had learned and recei ved to date o n m y j o urney. I f n othing else, I w o u l d ha ve learned about h u m a n k i n d ness. F r o m the s m i le and b o w f r o m the f lag man o n the road i n h is b l ue suit and w h ite hel met, to the y o u n g m a n w h o ga ve m e m o ne y and a c old 1 3

14 drin k at T o k ushi ma. It had ne ver be f ore been p ossible f or m e to loo k i nto the eyes o f a f lag man dri v i n g past, and I reall y appreciated the m f o r w h at they w e re d o i n g. T he te m perature w as still i n the m i d-30s w h e n entered the 640 m etre l o n g H i w asa T u n nel. T he c old air provided so me relief. A car w as par ked at the end o f the tunnel, and a w o m e n g ot o ut as I w a l ked past, aski ng m e w h ether I w as Ha-w aa-d o san. S he and her h usband, the o w ners o f the A z u m a M i nshu k u, had dri ven to this spot to take m y bac k pac k, to m a k e the last 1 0 k ms easier f o r m e. I w as reall y touc hed b y this generous gi ft, and I f le w the rest o f the w ay. A true g i ft f r o m the K u u k ai to m e! I w as a little w o r r ied about f i n d i n g the m i ns hu k u i n M u g i T o w n, because I had left the m o b i le and m a ps in the bac k pac k. B u t the w o m a n ca me o ut o f the d o or as I ca me near, she m ust ha ve been o n the l o o k o ut f o r m e. E v en though I w as h ot s weaty and s melly, the h osts insisted i n planning f or to m o rro w f o r m e. I had been p lanning o n n ot w a l k i n g m o re than 40 k ms, b ut there d oesn t see m to be an y acco m m o dation around in that area. B etter p ossibilities exist at around 25 and 47 k ms. A t 47 k ms, there w as a m i ns hu k u run b y o ne o f their f r iends, w h o too w o u l d co me and pic k u p m y bac k pac k en-route, she said. I t w as hard to refuse this o f fer. A s to m y p h ysical c ondition, I ha ve heat blisters o n m y head, and thi ghs the l o w er ar ms and legs are sunbur nt, b ut apart f r o m that I m O K. A m a z i n g ly, m y feet are f i ne! I ha ven t de veloped a heat rash bet ween m y legs even though I ha ven t used the anti-c hafing crea m f o r t w o da ys. T he tube m i g ht be the ne xt candidate f or the rubbish bin to lighten m y load. N a h o k o j ust rang; she w as w a l k i n g through a thunderstor m. I k n o w I ha ve ne ver recei ved so m u c h lo ve as I a m recei v i n g f r o m this a maz ing w o m a n. Day 7-8 August Sakihama Port D istance (km) 47 Vertical (m) 400 T i m e Ta ken (hrs) 1 1 Te m p les N o ne A n other tough day, b ut the ne xt f o ur should be easier. I n 1 1 h o urs I c o vered 47 k ms, n o te m p les, g ot f i ve b listers o n m y feet, a m badl y sunburnt, slightl y drun k after 1 ½ b ottles o f A s ahi D r y and I am ex hausted. It w as 0630 hrs w h e n I left, too earl y f or brea k fast at the A z u m a M i ns hu k u, b ut M i y a uchi san pac ked m e in t w o b oiled eggs as osettai. I b o u g ht so me bread at the nearb y L a w s o n Station, w h ere an elderl y w o m a n ga ve m e 1,000 y en as an osettai. I had decided to treat this as a business da y, so I stuc k to R o ute 55, i g n oring the m a n y scenic routes. T he o nl y p urpose w as to reach m y g oal b y the end o f the day. T he route w as generall y f lat w i t h m a n y gentle rises, w h i c h m a de u p f o r the v ertical distance o f the day. 1 4

15 I stopped at the b order o f the T o k ushi ma and K o c h i Prefectures (the di v i d i n g line bet ween the D o j os o f Spiritual Awakening and Ascetic Training) f or a brief pra yer. I than ked the K o o b o o D a ishi f or g uiding m e through the initial d ojo, f or the k i n d ness that others ha ve sho w n to m e, and f or allo w i n g m e to gro w. T hen I turned w est and asked hi m f o r h is o n g o i n g g uidance, and to enable m e to achie ve w h at I w as m eant to achie ve d uring this pilgri mage. S o me w here along the w a y a b u zzard and a cro w w e re f o l l o w i n g m e. T he b uzzard f i rst, f l y i n g f r o m p ole to p ole, the cro w f o llo w i n g. T he b uzzard s shrill piiieeee shattering the silence. I too k that as a g o o d o m en. I w a l ked through T o y o T o w n j ust after l u nc h, and w as read y to tac k le the last 1 4 k ms o f relati vel y f lat road to the M i nshu k u T o k u masu. A s al wa ys, the last ten k i l o metres are the hardest. W h e n I f i nall y dragged m y sel f i nto Sakiha ma P ort w i t h three k i l o metres to g o, I w o u l d ha ve gladl y accepted a ride i n a car or caught a taxi, alas there w as n o ne o n o f fer. A s to the pic k- u p pro m ised b y the lad y at last n i g ht s m i ns hu k u, that d i d n t eventuate, as m u c h as I d h o ped it w o u l d. A car henro d o i n g the O H e n r o San in reverse (gyaku-uc h i) stopped his little v an and o f fered m e a m o c h i as an osettai. T hen he ga ve m e a c op y o f the H eart Sutra that had been w r itten 1,200 y ears ago and had the K o o b o o D a ishi s na me o n it. W h at a w o n der f u l g i ft! R eciting the K u u kai s na me w i t h ever y step (Na m u D a ishi H e n j o o K o n g o o) see med to g i ve m ean extra li ft f or the last k i l o m etres. T he M i ns h u k u T o k u m asu is a real f i n d! It faces the ocean and I can hear the h u ge, p o u n d ing surf, stirred u p b y an approaching t y p h o o n. It is o n a ver y p o p u lar sur f beach w i t h 2-3 m etre w a v es. T he son o f the o w ner is an av i d sur fie, and h is attracti ve w i fe speaks g o o d E n g lish. T he y w e re k i n d enough to b o o k m y acco m m o dation f o r the ne xt t w o n i g hts at the M u r oto M i sa k i (Cape). I o n l y g ot f i ve h o urs sleep last n i g ht because m y b o d y j ust w a nted to k eep o n w a l k i n g. It just d i d n t realise it needed a rest. I f i nall y reached f o r the sleeping tablets at 2330 hrs. T o n i g ht, I thin k, the b o d y w i l l be j ust too tired to care and I should be able to sleep... Day 8-9 August Muroto Misaki D istance (km) 1 4 Vertical (m) 300 T i m e Ta ken (hrs) 4 Te m p les H o tsu m isa k i j i 24 (Cape) T o da y w as a breeze. A f ter f o ur da ys o f hard w a l k i n g I decided just to w a l k to C a pe M u r oto (Muroto M i sa k i), f o llo w e d b y a rest day. It rained heavil y o ver night, and the rain w as still pelting d o w n, as I g ot read y to lea ve at 0830 hrs. It rained heavily throughout the da y; it w as l i ke standing in a w a r m sho w er. R eason f or it is that the centre o f a t y p h o o n is n ot too far a wa y f r o m the cape and, though there w as n ot m u c h w i n d east o f the C a pe, it caused ver y heav y rain (and even serio us f l o o d i n g near O k a ya ma o n H o ns hu). T han ks to m y p o ncho the bac k pac k and shirt w e re ke pt reasonabl y dry, b ut m y shoes, soc ks and shorts w e re w r i n g i n g w et. B u t at least the te m peratures w e re w e l l d o w n, and at the C a pe a strong breeze w as co m i n g o f f the ocean. 1 5

16 I m a de it to the C a pe j ust after m i d-day, then too k the short and steep trac k u p to the Cape Te m p le. I al wa ys enjo y ringing the bell to announce m y arri val. T h is ti me h o w e ver I rang it so strongl y that it reverberated f or a m i n u te or t w o, causing a d o g nearb y to bar k. T he H o tel 808 is l ocated adjacent to the te m p le, and I d arri ved w e l l before c hec k-in ti me. S o I left the pac k i n the l o b b y and w a l ked d o w n the tig ht hairpins o f the m a i n road to the cape. I had a long a waited co f fee at a s mall ca fé, and later o n a second o ne w i t h a piece o f cake. I m ust ha ve l o o ked li ke a dro w ned p u p p y d o g as I w a l ked i nto the café d uring a thunderstor m, because the k i n d lad y ga ve m e a to wel to dr y m y sel f, and an u m b rella as I w as about to lea ve. A s I a m w r iting, I just sa w the w eather report f or to m o rro w m o re o f the sa me, lots o f rain caused b y the t y p h o o n. A t least it w o n t be too h ot... T he m a i n p urpose o f the da y f or m e w as to v isit the M i k o radoo (cave) w h ere the K o o b o o D a ishi had trained after lea v i n g the u n i versit y o f N a ra. H e w as 1 9 years o ld at that ti me. H e re he experienced a m y stical ex perience d uring m e d itation, w h i c h he described as the m o r n i n g star w h i c h shines i n the sk y entered m y m o uth. H e also recorded sayi ng w hene ver he loo ked o ut o f the cave, the o n l y thing he sa w w as the ocean and the sk y the the me o f w ater and air recurri ng f o r m e? I pra yed to the K o o b o o D a ishi and b o w e d deepl y three ti mes before entering the cave. A s mall altar is at the end, about 30 m etres i nto the m o u ntain. I pra yed and touc hed roc ks that c ould ha ve been touc hed b y the K u u k ai 1,200 y ears ago. T hen I turned around and tried to i magine w h at he w o u l d ha ve seen w h e n he li ved i n the cave, tr y i n g to ignore the road, g u ide p osts and crash barriers. I felt a strong throbbing i n m y te m p les as is stood in the cave taking i n the i ncredible energ y o f the site. Tears w e l led i nto m y e yes as I said sorr y f o r all the m isdeeds I had d o ne in m y l i fe. A g a i nst m y father, m o t her, brothers, sister, children, grandc hildren, w i v es, partners, f riends, c olleagues, people I had co me into touc h throughout m y life. E ve n to the o l d drun kard at the B raid w o o d Pu b w h ose hat I d stolen. A b usload o f sightseers disturbed m y m e d itation, so I left the ca ve and w a ited f or the m to leave. A s I re-entered, the throbbing i n m y te m p les began again. L a ter o n I w a l ked d o w n to the f oreshore o utside the cave. I w o n dered o n w h i c h o f the big roc ks the m o n k K u u k ai w o u l d ha ve sat o n and m e d itated, loo k i n g across the sea. T hen I w a l ked u p to the h otel again to c hec k i n, w ash m y clothes and take a bath (in that order). S itting i n the h ot w ater and rela x i n g I struc k u p a c on versatio n w i t h an other w a l k i n g henro w h o recalled f o n d l y h is experiences in Tas mania. H e too w as o n his f irst pilgri mage, and w as h o ping to gain an i nsight i nto K o o b o o D a ishi s teachi ngs. O v er d i n ner w i t h the w a l k i n g henro w e w e re joined b y a car and a c y c ling henro. T he y f o u n d it i ncredible that so meone c ould w a l k 47 k ms i n o ne day. T he w a l k i n g henro w as happ y to d o 30, the c y c l ing o ne 80. T he roo m at the h otel is w estern style, and j ust o utside the w i n d o w is a grapefruit tree. T he h otel is so-so, and dinner w as de finitel y o n the m e d i ocre side. B u t I ha ve m y o w n toilet, and to m o rro w is a rest da y! Day 9-10 August Muroto Misaki D istance (km) 1 0 Vertical (m) 200 T i m e Ta ken (hrs) 2 1 6

17 Te m p les Shiushooji 25 (Illu m i nati ng Seaport) T o da y had been a designated rest day. I d thought o f f i n d i n g an internet café at M u r oto C ity, b ut there are n o ne in this to w n. Plent y o f f ishing b oats, h u n dreds o f the m in fact sheltering f r o m the t y p h o o n, three harbours and m e ter high sea w a l ls protecting the harbour and cit y f r o m t y p h o o ns and tsuna m is. I used the da y to w a n der d o w n to say m y pra yers at the Illu m i nating Seaport Te m p le, its c hief p urpose being to protect seafarers. T h is m eans I can leave to m o rro w at 0500 hrs. It w as h ot and stea m y all da y long. A n d the hea vens o pened again at hrs. T he cli mate around the cape is a maz ingl y tropical. It re m i n ds m e o f H a w a i i. L o ts o f red hibiscus f l o w ers, h u ge oleander b ushes, and m asses o f w h ite tru m pet lilies that c ost a fair b it i n H o bart, and gro w here as w eed b y the roadside. I m spending the afternoon w r i ting p ostcards and drin k i n g beer. I m also w atching o n T V a d irect telecast o f the K o c h i D a nce Festi val. G reat skill and energ y is p ut i n b y the participants, b ut it isn t q u ite the sa me spectacle as the carni val in R i o. Day August Yasuda Town D istance (km) 43 Vertical (m) 1,000 T i m e Ta ken (hrs) Te m p les K o n g o och o o j i 26 (Vajra Pea k) K o n o m i neji 27 (God Su m m i t) A true m a rathon d istance, and I c ouldn t help co m paring this da y to the second last da y o f this y ear s T o ur de F rance: a l o n g, f lat stage w i t h a couple o f lo w categor y cli m bs to gi ve w a r n i n g to riders o f things to c o me, then a m o u ntai n top f i n ish o n the dreaded M t V entou x that k i l ls riders (figurati vel y and l iterall y). I began w a l k i n g at 0500 hrs, ha v i n g decided to d o w i t h o ut break fast. L ast night s d i n ner really w as belo w par, and I suspect the m eat they ser ved w as w h ale. T he thought o f these h u ge ani mals being hauled o nto the w h a lers, bleeding, w as enough to p ut m e o f f the f o o d. S o I w a l ked d o w n h i ll, singing w i t h a f u l l v o ice all the rousin g songs I k ne w, li ke D ie H i m m e l R ü h m e n des E w i gen E h re and Y o u ll N e ver W a l k A l o ne. I o n l y stopped briefl y in f r o nt o f Te m p le #25 to pra y in f r o nt o f the Jizoo B osatsu, asking f or the K o o b o o D a ishi s protection and g u idance o n this day. I reached Te m p le #26 j ust after 0700 hrs, and w as the f irst o n the da y to ri ng the bell, light a candle, and say the H eart Sutra. T hen the journe y too k m e n orth, m a i n l y along R o ute 55 and the seashore. Y esterda y s p o u n ding seas had g i ven w a y to a cal m, f lat sea, reflecting the blue o f the sky. M y spirits began to f lag as I approac hed N a hari T o w n after seven h o urs o f w a l k i n g. T he M i ns h u k u K i ns ho at Y asuda T o w n w as still m o re than an h o ur a way, and I still had o ne te m p le ahead o f m e. 1 7

18 I left the bac k pac k at the m i ns hu k u and co m m e nced the f o ur-k i l o m etre w a l k to K o n o m i neji, 632 m etres u p. R a i n ca me pelting d o w n just as I co m m e nced the steep section o f the w a l k, and w h ate ver clothes w e ren t w e t w i t h s weat soon w e re soaked w i t h rain. O ne o f the learnings I ll be taking f r o m this j ourne y is that I a m capable o f d oing m u c h m o re than I d ever tho ught p ossible. A n d I k n o w that N a h o k o is p la y i n g a v er y big part i n this. T here w e re a fe w car henro at the top, t w o even w i t h a pro fessional g u i de. T he y l o o ked so clean and neat i n their p ure w h ite c lothing (they even w o re stra w sandals!!), the stuf f o ne sees i n O H e n r o San pa m p h lets. I m sure that the li kes o f m e and an other w a l k i n g henro I m et o n the w a y d o w n w o u l d n t get o ur pictures into the m a gaz ines: s weaty, panting, s melly, dirty, b urnt b y the sun, w as hed b y the rain, b u f feted b y the w i n d, fallen to the ground touc hed b y the f o ur ele ments. B u t that s w h at the pilgri mage is all about, desu ne? Te m p le #27 w as an other spiritual c hec k p o i nt (though I didn t realise it at the ti me b ut than k f u l l y the K o o b o o D a ishi let m e in). T he te m p le itself is q uite i m p ressi ve, and the gardens exquisite. W h e n I f i nall y g ot bac k to the M i ns hu k u K i ns h o, I w as told it w as actuall y closed. B u t the k i n d m a n o n crutc hes too k m e b y car to an other m i nshu k u (I thin k it is the D r i ve-i n-27 ). A s I had d i n ner, the w a l k i n g henro f r o m yesterda y w a l ked i n and w e nt straight to h is roo m. P o or m a n he still has #27 to d o to m o rro w. Feet-w ise, I g ot a ne w b lister ne xt to an o l d o ne o n the left f o ot, a double blister (one o n top o f the other) o n the right, and the o ne o n the heel is so big I had to drain it to get into the shoes. N a h o k o called just as I w as about to g o to dinner. T here had been a 6.2 strength earthqua ke i n T o k y o this m o r n i n g. P.S. Just c hec ked m y w e i g ht. I f the bathroo m scales are c orrect, I m d o w n to 67 k g, 2-3 k i l os less than m y n or mal w e i g ht. N o t that I m ever h u n gry, just getting lean and m ean. Day August Kochi D istance (km) 38 Vertical (m) 1 00 T i m e Ta ken (hrs) 1 0 Te m p les D a i n i ch i j i 28 (Great Su n) T o da y w as the hardest o f all so far!!! It w as 38 k m o f m a i nl y f lat road along the T osa-w a n (Bay), sort o f a longish beach stroll. T he fact that I d o nl y slept f o ur h o urs d i d n t help. A n d the te m perature, u n der a c o vered sk y rese m b ling a heat b u b ble w as in the lo w 40s. It w as alread y b o iling h ot w h e n I left at 0630 hrs, and the s weat w as p o uring f reel y w h e n I had m y f irst stop at C e ntral A k i. I f o u n d a c offee shop and stopped f o r m y f irst cof fee, p l us an apple ca ke. 1 8