Hangzhou / ჿ BY JA M I E F U LLE R TO N P H OTO G R A P H Y JA S P E R JA M E S A D D ITI O N A L R E P O RTI N G PAU L A J I N ֆ ځ Ӑ в mountain Soul

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BY JA M I E F U LLE R TO N P H OTO G R A P H Y JA S P E R JA M E S A D D ITI O N A L R E P O RTI N G PAU L A J I N ֆ ځ Ӑ в mountain Soul Over a century after serving as a playground for

1 BY JA M I E F U LLE R TO N P H OTO G R A P H Y JA S P E R JA M E S A D D ITI O N A L R E P O RTI N G PAU L A J I N ֆ ځ Ӑ в mountain Soul Over a century after serving as a playground for foreign missionaries, the forested retreat 90 minutes from Hangzhou is now a weekend getaway for Chinese urbanites ښ Єёӓ䩟 ځݾ ϣ ϥᘎя ܓ л ڌة ϡ Ԓϳஇ䦚 ә Ѕл ߅ځ ϡ с䩟ய ڐ ჿ д߀ӝࡄ䩟 ѳϩѹюњё ص Ϫϡ ڬ ਖ਼۵ϡс 35

2 rant shot that himself, my G host proudly tells me, gesturing up to the stuffed head of some kind of antelopelike animal. The curly-horned creature s noggin is pinned to a prime spot on the pristine white wall of Naked Castle s central atrium, flanked by a supporting cast of warthogs and deer. Piped classical music wafts serenely in the background as residents take selfies while perched on plush chairs in the nearby drawing room. For those not squeamish about the dead heads, the vibe is more Instagram-ready rural Scottish castle than Chinese countryside retreat. But I am indeed out in the sticks in China specifically, Moganshan, the bamboo-laden mountain area in the eastern Zhejiang province, three hours from Shanghai or a 90-minute drive from the provincial capital, Hangzhou. I m here because Moganshan, an area populated in the late 1800s by foreign missionaries zipping in from Shanghai, is once again enjoying a reputation as The Hamptons of China, a village-dotted nature-linked retreat that, like its New York comparator, offers city slickers a breezy escape from the urban grind. Just downhill from the main Moganshan peak, where tourists disembark tour buses in the summer months, less obvious trails slice through the forest, attracting adventurous bamboo-hacking hikers. Crucial to this re-up is the Grant mentioned by my host. The latter person, incidentally, was introduced to me as Naked Castle s resident Scottish guard. He s actually a friendly young Russian chap named Slava, but he is wearing a kilt. Grant Horsfield, the South African founder of the Naked hospitality company, opened the Naked Castle resort along with his architect wife Delphine Yip-Horsfield in May The resort s eponymous castle, visible from many of the mossy walking trails threading through the Moganshan mountainside, has become a symbol of the area s revitalisation over the past decade as a haven from the Hangzhou and Shanghai bustle. Naked Castle s European-style design was inspired by the original castle on the site, which had almost completely crumbled into history by the time Horsfield first poked around here. Built in 1910 by Dr Duncan Main, a Scottish Christian sent to China by the British church in 1881, it survives in grainy black and white photos adorning the walls of the new incarnation, and in design aspects such as its imposing main turret. Near the completion of Main s castle which had a medical facility and the address Number One Moganshan the mountainside had become dotted with other European-style buildings. They were largely weekend and holiday villas built by the RIGHT: SLAVA, A RUSSIAN STAFF MEMBER OF NAKED CASTLE

Moganshan is a villagedotted nature retreat that offers city slickers a breezy escape from the urban grind 䦯 ځݾ ϡ ݿ Ѥభບ ݣ ҿͻіѽҏѕ䩟 џ صڵ Ϫຄ ڐ ᑍ䩟 ϣ ט Ј Ӡ䦰 LEFT: THE LUSH GREENERY ON THE GROUNDS OF NAKED

䦚 х༱۰ ӆ ҏ Ѽϡඐ ۺ 䩟 Нұի ۴୪ ڵ ณડϡ Ϫዝ 䩟І ޛ әϼՙघ ے ӻ 䩟џϪ۲ Ԝ ӱ Ѕлϡ с䦚ѩӣϼ䩟ϣѳϩϡ৯ঞӱ ܓ ֆс ߅ϡ ځݾ 䵋 ә ҿዩ ϡኵ ߅ځ 䩟 ۥ Ͼჿ මӝӓ ए ϫ ٻ ЩЖ䩟 ۥ ϼ очछњѧщж䦚 ϢѵҋϥЊϦ ځݾ ґϰ䦚 Ԓઔ 䩟 л ڌة ۥ ϼ ϰϻ ױ с䦚ж ѵϳ䩟 ѶЇԳ 䦯Ѕлఈ ૦ 䦰ҏѤኲ䩭ϲҒኯएϡ сఈ૦

3 Moganshan is a villagedotted nature retreat that offers city slickers a breezy escape from the urban grind 䦯 ځݾ ϡ ݿ Ѥభບ ݣ ҿͻіѽҏѕ䩟 џ صڵ Ϫຄ ڐ ᑍ䩟 ϣ ט Ј Ӡ䦰 LEFT: THE LUSH GREENERY ON THE GROUNDS OF NAKED CASTLE ਅ 䩭 Кณ Һ 䦯 ϥ*udqwϡ ڕ ۱Ԙ䦚䦰ֆѬҰ ז ϼ ϣϫ Ѓঐ Ӱϡ ӆ䩟іൻс ז ϢМ䦚 ъϫӕяბ ϡ༱ӱ䩟ѡᗽ КณЅ ϣ Ձա ຍ ϡ Ւ ঞ䩟Ҕᄫй ૩ф Ӱ ӆӑ ༡䦚ป ײ ϡͼ ۺ 䩟 ਹ ӀϨ ӠЅ ൳เ䩟 ۺ Ϩൻ ܓ স ϡӏሚϼ ЯІ ޛ 䦚 ڣ ཋѶ Яധᠦᠦϡఐ ڣޔ ጭ䩮 ౹ ఙϼϣϫӋыϦϡ Ѷ䩟ӵЯϣԈ ٥ᐚж䩟џ ۺ Ϫ ڨ Жх 䦚 х༱۰ ӆ ҏ Ѽϡඐ ۺ 䩟 Нұի ۴୪ ڵ ณડϡ Ϫዝ 䩟І ޛ әϼՙघ ے ӻ 䩟џϪ۲ Ԝ ӱ Ѕлϡ с䦚ѩӣϼ䩟ϣѳϩϡ৯ঞӱ ܓ ֆс ߅ϡ ځݾ 䵋 ә ҿዩ ϡኵ ߅ځ 䩟 ۥ Ͼჿ මӝӓ ए ϫ ٻ ЩЖ䩟 ۥ ϼ очछњѧщж䦚 ϢѵҋϥЊϦ ځݾ ґϰ䦚 Ԓઔ 䩟 л ڌة ۥ ϼ ϰϻ ױ с䦚ж ѵϳ䩟 ѶЇԳ 䦯Ѕлఈ ૦ 䦰ҏѤኲ䩭ϲҒኯएϡ сఈ૦ 䩟 ځݾ ϡ ݿ ѤభບЇϥ ݣ ҿͻіѽҏѕ䩟џ صڵ Ϫຄ ڐ ᑍ䩟 ϣ ט Ј Ӡ䦚 ځݾ ҏӛйգј ԼϪИϡ ۷䩟ϣ Ӝ *چ UDQW +RUVÁ HOGϡԲ ӢϨ ۋ ໖䦚ґϢϡֆѬҰ6ODYD䩟छ 37 Њ Кณϡ䦯 ۴୪ਙഈ䦰䦚6ODYD Ѽӱ ܕ ۴୪ ة ۴ж 䩟ԔјԷӢϥё ڳ ϡፏ টϪ䩟Ҏ Н 䦚 ϰі ϡ+ruvá HOGϥ К భԘनϡ ދ Ϫ䩟ј ҿ ё ᨴӎ ࠃ ڗ န ϡ ж Ꮞಶ ӎы ޗ Кณ䦚 ӏӿ భԘनӎӜϡ ڵ ณ䩟ԩ ځݾ ϼЄ ӕ ٴ ᱤ⓰ϡ բዒϼ Н Ԋϣᄆ䩟ࢣၹЯ соч ёϰϡ 䩟юЊჿ фϼ ϡ೬ԓ ځ ບ䦚 Кณϡଟ ذޗ 䩟 Ҁ Іӓӱϡ ڵ ณ ԇ 䩟 Ԅ+RUVÁ HOG۰ҋϰϺ ױ сж䩟 ϩϡࠃန Ӕӫলի ޤ 䦚 ۴୪ ڌة ႰᗳѸ Тҿ ёԡ л ڌ Ͼ൨ Ѕл ӑ䩟 ԇ ϲϥјϩ ё ࠃ䦚ᅲѳ ڵ ณ ൯ϡথฦ ܪ Ձ ә䩟ғѵ Ϩ Кณϡ ຍϼ䩟ࠃ န ذޗ Ї ߈خ ϦϤվ ϩ ঈ䩟 Ғϣӏᒩ໖ϡ 䦚 ႰᗳѸ Тϡ ณԼժ ځݾ ϣ ى 䩟 Ѷ ޗ ϩ ඊ ޗ 䦚 ڵ ณьԕℴ ҏগ䩟էјଟ ࠃနЇϨ ځ Ҽ ю䩟ͻєϥ л ਰӛࠃϡ ڬ ԇ 䩟ԄёјИ Ͼ ܩ ϼ ж䩟ῶѓԅсϡඪ భ ھ ԩ ځ ऍ Ϻ ځ ϼ䦚ԇ 䩟ӻ ܧ Ծфղᄈဩϣ ༤ އ 䩟џъԈӕЯᕦ жϡ лϫө ਖ਼ ڬ 䦚 Ϣԩ Кณϡћ ҵоϰ䩟ϩ ځ ϣծ ҲϦӫд߀

and its gnarled window frame, both losing the battle for space to the nearby bamboo. Higher up, there are more intact examples.

4 foreign elite who were carried to their pads on sedan chairs by poor locals from villages at the foot of the mountains. A few minutes after walking out into the mountaintop area, from the back gate of the Naked Castle complex, I see further evidence of this elite missionary history: a single lonely brick house wall and its gnarled window frame, both losing the battle for space to the nearby bamboo. Higher up, there are more intact examples. Weather-worn stone stairs drive through the greenery, with passage up or down them requiring foot swipes to clear encroaching grass. Grand but rustic villas stand dormant, completely abandoned or left locked up during my spring visit, until warmer months arrive. Some have been converted into small hotels, while others seem life-free aside from the occasional whistling gardener making slow attempts to prevent weeds from taking over. When I first went there 20 years ago Moganshan was a ghost town, Mark Kitto, a British former magazine publisher credited with helping to kickstart the area s recent revival, told me on Skype from the UK before my visit. After first visiting the area in the late 90s, Kitto lived in Moganshan from 2005 to 2013, running Moganshan Lodge, a café on Yinshan Street, the closest the mountain has to a commercial centre, with a few rustic restaurants. Kitto wrote about his early Moganshan experience in his 2009 book China Cuckoo, and for a while was basically Mr Moganshan or at least Mr Foreign Moganshan. Every local I ask directions from still knows Moganshan Lodge as Ma Ke Café, Ma Ke being Kitto s Chinese name. Being plugged into Shanghai s expat community, Kitto helped attract more foreigners to Moganshan from 2005, when he and Horsfield would spend days tramping among the bamboo, exploring. In 2007 Horsfield found the remains of Main s castle, and the idea for his own version on the site was born. The buildings around the Moganshan area were largely derelict and abandoned; it did really feel like [the missionaries] had just left, Kitto said. My mates and I used to peek inside and explore. You had to root around you d be wandering around the mountain and suddenly find a hole in the ground, and it d be a swimming pool. Some of them were half natural; the locals developed rock pools and plumbed them. It was magical. For the domestic tourists riding coaches along the rally course-style roads up the mountain, a draw equally popular is the nearby sparsely decorated, gnarly walled stone house presented as the temporary lodging of Chairman Mao. Following the Japanese invasion of the 1930s and the formation of the People s Republic of China in 1949, after which the Chinese communists turfed the foreigners out of Moganshan, Mao Zedong reportedly visited the area. TOP TO BOTTOM: MOGANSHAN HAS HIKING TRAILS APLENTY; A STRUCTURE BUILT IN THE EARLY 20TH CENTURY LIES DERELICT

ћ䩟 чѳϧѹєᘎя л ڌة ϡ 䩭ϣ ݻ ϡᏫ ߵԷ ٴ ϥ ۈ ᄏ ϡ ੳᕴ䩟Ӕҩ೨ נ ӕоϡ ኵжடЏ൬Њ 䦚ҙ ϡ ࠚжछ ࡖخ Џ Њԟ ݱ 䦚 าϡ ၆ի գ ە Ӌ䩟ϨसᜣҏҼၜ෨䩟Ϩ၆ ϼЎҲҵЖ䩟Ҭ ϴѓऍዿы स䦚ϢϨࡇ ϰභ䩟ъ Ԉ Ӡ൨ҍᓂӢϡԇ Ё ҿਭӓ૬ ݯ 䩟 ИϤϥӔ ҩᄯಖ䩟ϲϥգ ٹ 䩟ϺϦ ޜ ϡ ڤ ҥͼⲛ О ϰ䦚ࡔ ЇϩԈ ࠃюЩ ނܦ

LWWRҿ ё ڊ ћ ۰භ ځݾ 䩟 ԷћϨ ё ё ҿԅс䩟ϩ ځ অҬॺ౹ ނ 0RJDQVKDQ /RGJH䩮 ځ অУϩӫрঈᓂϡ 䩟६юϦ ځݾ ϡ䦯 ص ЅК䦰䦚.

5 ћ䩟 чѳϧѹєᘎя л ڌة ϡ 䩭ϣ ݻ ϡᏫ ߵԷ ٴ ϥ ۈ ᄏ ϡ ੳᕴ䩟Ӕҩ೨ נ ӕоϡ ኵжடЏ൬Њ 䦚ҙ ϡ ࠚжछ ࡖخ Џ Њԟ ݱ 䦚 าϡ ၆ի գ ە Ӌ䩟ϨसᜣҏҼၜ෨䩟Ϩ၆ ϼЎҲҵЖ䩟Ҭ ϴѓऍዿы स䦚ϢϨࡇ ϰභ䩟ъ Ԉ Ӡ൨ҍᓂӢϡԇ Ё ҿਭӓ૬ ݯ 䩟 ИϤϥӔ ҩᄯಖ䩟ϲϥգ ٹ 䩟ϺϦ ޜ ϡ ڤ ҥͼⲛ О ϰ䦚ࡔ ЇϩԈ ࠃюЩ ނܦ 䩟ϩԈЃϰϦѩТӠ䩟 ઢঌђϩ Я ט ϡ ౨ ߝсङस䩟 ݪ सᜣТ䦚䦯Ϣ ёӓ۰ҋ ځݾ Ж䩟ъѶϲҒϣӏӚ ڵ 䦚䦰 лϫ0dun.lwwr ڗ ௨о Ϫ䩟ϨԐҁ ځݾ ч ϼᕠ મЄ䦚ϨϢвࡄочҏӓ䩟 Ϩ лϡјϲ Ϣ ՔҲϦ Ռхҧ䦚.LWWRҿ ё ڊ ћ ۰භ ځݾ 䩟 ԷћϨ ё ё ҿԅс䩟ϩ ځ অҬॺ౹ ނ 0RJDQVKDQ /RGJH䩮 ځ অУϩӫрঈᓂϡ 䩟६юϦ ځݾ ϡ䦯 ص ЅК䦰䦚.LWWRҿ ёо Яӑ䦭&KLQD &XFNRR䦮䩟ডߵϨ ځݾ ϡչ Ղࡐ䦚 ҬϩϮϣ ݫ ЖҼ䩟јҩ ЊԄсϡ ة Ͻ 䩟 چڈ ӑ䦯ҡ ة Ͻ 䦰䦚Ϣ ז ԄсϪ բ ϡжԃ䩟јиകͼԕ0rjdqvkdq /RGJH Њ䦯 ౹ 䦰䩟ґ䦯䦰ϲϥ0DUNϡЅҹፆ ٸ 䦚౹ ϡӡዝ ѵ Ѽ Ҏ 䩟 ᦝ آ Я భ ܦ щϡ ਖ਼є 䦚 ԩ ёы 䩟.LWWRюЊϼ лϫघळϡϣдж䩟 Ѹ Ϥվ лϫӓ ځݾ 䩟ԄЖјӿ+RUVÁ HOGϨ ߅ځ ϣ߈ϲϥϯӫϳ䩟ϩኵ Ѷଵ ෬ 䦚ϺϦ ё䩟 +RUVÁ HOGчѳϦႰᗳѸ ณϡ ժ䩟ࠃ߃ КณϡҺ ϲ ױ Т䦚䦯 ځݾ ϣծϡࠃန 䩟ϽЄя ڈ ڜ ໑իᄯಖ䩟 ៧ ߈Ϩ ڌة ӃӃ ڐ ыϡж 䦚䦰.LWWRМ䦚䦯Ϣ ԴҎйӓϾϮ с פ 䩟Ϻ ෬ ϣ 䦚௩ ϥ ۓ ϴϡ䵋 ҵ ځ ҼϡЖԃ䩟ϧНЌϾ ѼчѳϣϫϽс 䩟ъЪНЌϥϣϫղᄈဩ䦚 ИϩԈᅲ ٻ ϳѼ૬ ݯ 䩟 ϥӆсϫԩ ыặоϰϡ䩟 дϥн ڽ ৶䦚䦰 ԄϢ ܕ քக 䩟ӓ 0RJDQVKDQ /RGJHϡЖԃ䩟ҝѼѰ ϢчѳϣϫҴ ϥᄈဩϡᝅͻс 䩟 س Ϩ ݴ Ѷϡ ϼϽϽϡᗡ ى 䦚с Ѷ ٴ ϥတ 䩟ԷӢ ڲ Ϥϼ ϥϥн ڽ ৶䩟ԔϨ ݕ ϡ Ѕ႑䩟 ٽ ϥϥнєџ ϡ чѳ䦚էћϣϰϻһ ᤑϡ ဩ䩟 ѤϡЩ൮ ป ײ 䩟ϢУЃϺϣϫϳѼ ဩ䦚 Ϥվ с ۺ Ё ܩ 䩟ቋЯḩḉბॽϡ ځ բ ґϼ䦚хјиϰм䩟䦯 ҰຟЎὔ 䦰ϡ Ҩ ߺϤᖱҿป ײ ϡ ဩ䩟 ڰ ᓂ 䩟 ߢޗ 䦚 ѶҬ О ё ڊ яӆ ܓ 䩟ґϨ ёѕ ܓ Ϫ ھ флю ћ䩟 М ֆї Ϻභ ױ с䦚 ѼϣԈԄсϪМ䩟 ֆϩ ځݾ Ҳա 䩟 ݫݱ Ҳࡄђϩ ϫщж䩟ԕϥ ӜϪϡ৯ վϰоϣ ҋ䦚䦯ϣ Џ䩟ЩЖԃ ҬԊОјϰыϾ䦚䦰ѳё ۈ ϡ హ 䩛 ٸ ፆ䩜М䩟ԧᛝϦϣ ஏ䩟ӕЯ ϣӱⶔॽձॐ䦚ϣϩ ځݾ Ұ й ϡọభ Ԋԧ䩟 Ѷы ޗ ϦϣҼϩঙϡ ӝѕ ఖ䩟УϩϣԈЈᔏϡ౹ 䦚䦯ъЖԃ䩟ԍԥюҲю с Ϩբ נ 䦚䦰ԧ༦в ד Ւ䩟 ڀ Ҙশ ֆϻභϡ Ѩ䦚 ҘϺ ځ ϼϡ0RJDQVKDQ /RGJH䩟 ۈ ϡҭԑҡ 䩟 ЂјОЧ ёԋࢮϡ Ժ䦚ङϦҹཪԷЅ ёҩ൨ ണ హభ䩟 Оᅕ ϡ ёт ҏ 䩟јϣ й ځݾ Њ р䦚䦯 ѶҟϣϫϪ䩟ѩ ں ϥϣуϥѽ ࠔע И䩟Ё չд ځݾ 䩟ϤϾ ڐ ы䦚䦰јԙߞ䦚 LEFT: A HIKER TAKING A BREATHER AT A PAVILION ਅ 䩭 ۺ ҿ ځݾ Ѷϡ ݡ ա S TAY I N G N A K E D К Ղࡐ The Aspire team stayed as guests of the eco-friendly Naked Castle and Naked Stables resorts. The former is located just south of the main Moganshan peak area and features rooms ranging from luxury suites and bungalows to themed suites inside the resort s castle. The castle also features a Chinese restaurant, bar, viewing platforms, lounges, library rooms and a museum area. Outside the castle, there is a restaurant, coffee shop, spa, activity centre with a pool and ping pong tables plus a lawn bowling green. The resort organises activities including hiking tours, cycling and yoga sessions. Naked Stables is located a 15-minute drive away from Naked Castle. The resort has 121 rooms built into the bamboo forest valley it inhabits, ranging from luxury huts to villas with private balconies and Jacuzzis. The resort keeps horses and offers riding plus activities such as cycling, yoga and archery. It has three on-site restaurants and three swimming pools. 䦭 ݿ 䦮ϡ൵භ ҋй ۺ ϪӱдЎὔ ڀ Գࢰ خ ϡ Кณф К Ҕϫ భ䦚ӓ ځݾ ٷ Ұ ח ߅ ځ 䩟 ݣ ϩ۴ ܓ ϡࠇࠚфщ 䩟йߵঞӱ ڵ ณ ϡұ ࠇࠚ䦚 ڵ ณ ח Ї ޗ ϩѕ 䦙 ܦ щ䦙 ݡ 䦙 ܦ ᚮ䦙 ڣ фѕ ఖ䩮ґ ڵ ณ ඩࡈ އ ѩ נ গᄈဩ䦙䦙౹ 䦙һඊЅК䦙ป ޗ ᄈဩфᦗᨬ ܧ ఙϡ ҁѕк䩟йߵसс ܧ Ծ䦚 ױ 䩟 К ณ٤పஶ ҁ ק 䩟Ғ ځ ၵ 䦙ք ӝфᒶ ڡ ҳ䦚 К ய ڐ Кณए д߀ӝࡄ䦚 భӏ ኵ ځ ҏѕ䩟 ݣ ϩ Ҽ ࠚۺ 䩟 د ၉ൻ ܓ Щ 䩟й ޗ ϩ Ϫਗ਼ ݡ фੜಎᆶᖽϡக ԇ 䦚 భ ޘ ϩ ጃ䩟ప ۺ ϪՂࡐ Ӏ ঙ䩟 ٤పք ӝ䦙ᒶ ߵथᕢҳ ҁ䦚ӿ ױ ӎж䩟 К ޗ ϩѧҽ фѧϫղᄈဩ䦚nakedretreats.cn;

Some locals claim that Mao s Moganshan trip was ﬂeeting just hours long but there is little debate over the fact that the man responsible for the 1966 1976 Cultural Revolution devastation came here

I meet her south of the main Moganshan peak in Yu Village, where a cute bicycle museum and a smattering of new, mildly trendy coffee shops have sprung up.

6 Some locals claim that Mao s Moganshan trip was ﬂeeting just hours long but there is little debate over the fact that the man responsible for the Cultural Revolution devastation came here at least once. I was young but I remember him coming here for a meeting, says Wang Fudi, a 76-year-old retired rice farmer with a gold tooth and white corkscrew hair. I meet her south of the main Moganshan peak in Yu Village, where a cute bicycle museum and a smattering of new, mildly trendy coffee shops have sprung up. There were policemen lining the roads, she adds, bunching her eyelids in concentration as she searches for the memory. Further up the mountain at Moganshan Lodge, the venue s manager Lao Wang considers the change he s seen over the past decade. Aside from a ﬁve-year period during the Cultural Revolution when he was sent away to work on a farm as a child, he has lived here all his life. The biggest change happened after Mark opened his café [Moganshan Lodge, which Wang now runs] in 2005, he continues, sitting on the terrace outside the café, overlooking sweeping green-covered mountains. When he was here many foreign tourists started to come; before that it was just local villagers plus domestic holidaymakers on organised tours. Mark has made a great contribution to Moganshan. Beyond Naked Castle and Naked Stables, its nearby sister venue that opened in 2011, the development of luxury retreats such as Le Passage Mohkan Shan in recent years have once again helped make Moganshan a getaway for the elite. A century ago that meant rich foreign missionaries; now it s local and foreign business types from Hangzhou and Shanghai, bashing bamboo instead of Bibles or just soaking in the resorts inﬁnity pools, cocktail in hand. Wang rattles through a list of other notable visitors to Moganshan. Chiang Kai-shek, the Chinese Nationalist leader, reportedly took his honeymoon here with his wife, Soong Mei-ling, in The Shanghai gangster elite was represented by drug lords Zhang Xiaolin and Du Yuesheng the latter used his opium tradederived fortune to hole up in a grand villa that now has a beautiful view of Naked Castle. Kitto is critical of how the area at the peak of Moganshan has been managed, saying that authorities only allowing short property leases these days has resulted in bad quality accommodation. However, he agrees that resorts such as the Naked places along with less expensive farmhouse-style accommodation, located next to the main peak area, are fantastic, and they re booming. The new urban class in China wants to get out and go hiking, and they re ﬂocking there. I spend my ﬁnal day in Moganshan trekking downhill from Naked Castle to Yu Village, passing a huge, dramatically collapsed silver mine Wang Fudi s husband used to work in. Having closed nearly a decade ago, the dormitories near the mine lie eerily empty of life, despite hand-scrawled slogans such as Please make effort to keep this room tidy! still visible on the walls. In deﬁance of such instruction, bullet-shaped thermos ﬂasks lie strewn on the ground, as if the place was deserted in a rush. Sights like this make it clear that although the missionaries are long gone, there s more to discover around Moganshan than the depths of a cocktail glass. TOP TO BOTTOM: A PLAQUE COMMEMORATING MAO ZEDONG S ONE-TIME LODGING; NAKED STABLES HAS 121 ROOMS BUILT INTO A BAMBOO FOREST VALLEY ਅ ߵЎ 䩭 ֆ ҬϺභО ځݾ ϡϣӌ ઔ न䩮 К ҿኵ ځ Ѷࠃϩ Ҽ ࠚۺ 䦯ԩ ҿ ёы ޗ ౹ 䩛 س ѳж ۥ ҡ Ҭॺϡ0RJDQVKDQ /RGJH䩜йϰ䩟зϽϡ Ժϲϥ䩟ԄјϨ ѶϡЖԃ䩟Ϥվ л ۺ ы ටӜґ 䦚йӓ Ѷђϩӆсభ ھ о Э䩟йߵ Ӹ Ҳ ϡ с ۺ 䦚 х ځݾ ѐϥᕠ મЄ䩔䦰ҡ ܩ Ϩ౹ ϡਗ਼ ݡ 䩟 נ М נ ᪔ Яᘓ ځ 䦚 ҿ Кณป ײ ϡᐕࠒ К 䩟Ϩ ёы 䩟ґङϦ КԘन ҏ 䩟߅ ײ ёїы ޗ ϦԷј ނܦܓ 䩟Ғ ځݾ Ѧ л ځ 䩟ਘ ځݾ ӐҋюЊघϾ ϡ೬ Ԓ с䦚ϣϫԓઔӓϡϼե 䩟ϥ ᥥ ϡ л ڌة 䩮ԔҒѵჿ фϼ ϡл 䩟ඩ ӓϰ෬ Էኵ ҏѥ䩟ҍ ٷڈ Ѳవϣ যഅ ܦ 䩟Ϩ భ ϡѩ נ গ ᄈဩ Һ ᱐䵋ᘎя ୳ ڌة Ҭϡє 䩟ѵϳӔюߺ 䦚 ҡ ϣ ט ӠМо ځݾ ϡҍӝභ ۺ 䦚ङ Ϧ ֆй 䩟л ھ ཙ ឣ Ї Ϻභ ױ с䩟 МјϨл ھ ཙ חے ӕ 岄ϡ Վ Ў䩟ҿ ёӿ жᓠѥ ӓϰ 䦚 ҿϼ ܪ Ѭϡ ڊ ԣϫ 䩟छϩϽఽ פ фᖯ ₔ䦚Ԛ ة ӓ ٷ Ҭ ڛ ℼᛎഝ䩟ћ ٷ छ ѓᗜ ᛃәӛЏϡ ؿ ࠃൻ ܓ ԇ 䩟 ԇ ݣܩ Кณϡฃ ܡ Ѥ 䦚.LWWR گ Њ䩟 КҳԘन Ўϡ ނܦ 䩟 йߵόረұ ॸ߅ ځ ٢۴ ԑϡహ ఖ䩟ᄘ Ϻ䦯ѩӿ ԝ䦰ϡһ כ 䦚䦯 Ич Џಶಶ ז 䦚ЅлϡЈ Ё ص ႓ৡ䩟Ё ܨ ຄ صڵڐ 䩟 ױݞ ݣ ґ 䩟ӓϰ К䦚䦰 Ϩ ځݾ ϡзћϣϳ䩟ϣ ۥ КณቋЯ ځ ᇾЎҲ ọభ䩟ಬѕҭоϣϫᝅͻϡ ሿ ժ䩟 ਟϤჺ䦚 ሿϨϽए ёӓԬള䩟 ป ײ ϡሿ ҒЇ䩟߈Ўϡђϩ䦯 خ ݱف 䦰ҳѲዻ ܭ 䩟сϼॡ ٴ ӕ ޜخ һ ᔖ䩟៧ ѩ ϼ ܭ 䩟 ݱ ϫсҥѓঐҩሸ 䦚 Ւӓϣә ࢣ䩟ࢮҴϦ Ѽ ڌة ӔҬю Њ 䩟 ځݾ УϥϩѸЄϩঙϡѨ Н йчᜨ䩟 ђϩ ނܦ Ѷϡҙ যഅ ܦ 䦚 Hong Kong Airlines flies to Hangzhou daily. For more information, visit hongkongairlines.com ܫ ୯ ҟя ޗ ϩ ڡ ϰ ܫ ୯ӿჿ 䦚 ݓ ѸЄళ 䩟 ՎॾऋKRQJNRQJDLUOLQHV FRP 40

蔡氏族譜序 2

蔡氏族譜序 2 1 蔡氏族譜 Highlights with characters are Uncle Mike s corrections. Missing or corrected characters are found on pages 9, 19, 28, 34, 44. 蔡氏族譜序 2 3 福建仙遊赤湖蔡氏宗譜序蔡氏之先出自姬姓周文王第五子