2006 MasterCraft X30 Maintenance and Service Log MCX 350 Engine V Drive transmission Three ballast tanks Heater October 20, 2009
Table of Contents 2006 MasterCraft X30 1 1. Winterization 3 1.1 Engine (MCX 350) 3 1.1.1 Front of engine (stern of boat): 3 1.1.2 Port side 5 1.1.3 Starboard side 6 1.1.4 Impeller 6 1.2 Heater 7 1.3 Hard Ballasts 8 1.4 Extra Ballasts (Sacs) 8 2. Changing Engine Oil 9 2.1 Drain 9 2.2 Fill 9 3. Changing Transmission Oil 10 3.1 Drain 10 3.2 Clean filter 11 3.3 Fill 11 4. Miscellaneous 12 4.1 Storage 12 4.2 Fuel Filter / Fuel Pump 12 5. Service Log 13 2
1. Winterization 1.1 Engine (MCX 350) Note: Leave water lines disconnected until all winterization steps are complete. Reconnect lines before storing. This makes it easier to ensure nothing is left unconnected, and it makes the boat ready to go as soon as you are! 1.1.1 Front of engine (stern of boat): 1. Remove both lines from the starboard side of the raw water impeller housing. 2. Remove line from port side of the main water pump. 1 3
2 NOTE: While lines are removed from water impeller housing, consider changing (or at least removing and inspecting) the impeller. This is easiest to do while the water lines are removed (see section 1.1.4). 4
1.1.2 Port side 1. Decouple hose connecting port and starboard exhaust manifolds. Drain water from both sides. 2. Remove plug from block (located immediately above oil pan; not visible in illustration). The plug has a knock sensor on it. Remove the sensor then remove the plug. A ½ socket with a 3 extension is ideal for removing the knock sensor. A 1 deep socket is ideal for removing the plug. Note: Picture shows a hose removed from the T below the exhaust manifold. This is not necessary (water can drain from decoupled hose - #1). 2 1 5
1.1.3 Starboard side 1. Remove plug from block (located immediately above oil pan; not visible in illustration) The plug has a knock sensor on it. Remove the sensor then remove the plug. A ½ socket with a 3 extension is ideal for removing the knock sensor A 1 deep socket is ideal for removing the plug Note: Picture shows a hose removed from the T below the exhaust manifold. This is not necessary (water can drain from decoupled hose on the other side of the T). 1 1.1.4 Impeller Remove impeller from impeller housing. Remove four bolts with 5/16 box wrench. Remove front cover from impeller housing. Pull impeller with vise grips while rotating impeller housing. Impeller should be pliable and soft. Veins should be nearly straight. If preserving for next season, cover impeller with glycerin oil and store in a plastic bag. 6
1.2 Heater 1. Remove heater water supply line from the engine. 2. Run RV antifreeze into hose until RV antifreeze flows from engine. This should require no more than ¼ gallon of antifreeze. 3. Replace water line. 1 7
1.3 Hard Ballasts 1. Ballast tanks should have been emptied prior to removing boat from water on last use. Run each ballast pump briefly to ensure each tank is as empty as possible. Picture shows panel removed. This is not necessary. T can be reached below panel. 2. Remove cap from plastic T on emptying line. 3. Run RV antifreeze into T while running the ballast pump. Repeat for each ballast independently putting approximately one gallon of antifreeze into each ballast tank. Cut an air hole in the bottom of the jug to allow antifreeze to flow unobstructed from jug. 4. Replace cap on plastic T. 5. Empty each ballast tank independently until red fluid spits out the ports on side of boat. 2 1.4 Extra Ballasts (Sacs) 1. Remove ballast sac(s) and completely empty. Optionally, a small amount of RV antifreeze can be added to each sac. 8
2. Changing Engine Oil 2.1 Drain 1. Remove drain plug from stern of boat. 2. Unclip oil drain line from engine. 3. Run oil drain line out stern of boat through drain hole. 4. Remove plug from end of drain line and drain oil into pan. 5. Remove oil fill cap from valve cover to ease flow. 6. Remove oil filter. 2.2 Fill 1. Replace cap on drain line. 2. Clip drain line to front of engine. 3. Fill new oil filter with oil (15W 40) 4. Screw on oil filter (Fram PH30). Hand tighten. Do not use filter wrench. 5. Fill engine with oil (15W 40). Engine will need 4 or 5 quarts of oil. 6. Replace oil fill cap on valve cover. 7. Replace stern drain plug. 9
3. Changing Transmission Oil 3.1 Drain 1. Remove transmission oil filter cap (located on port side of transmission). a. 6mm hex wrench to pull top cap bolt b. Fingers to pull seal c. Fingers to pull filter 2. Feed pump pickup line into transmission through filter hole. 10
3. Pump oil into waste container. 3.2 Clean filter 1. Soak filter in gasoline or other cleaning fluid. 2. Blow clean with air compressor. Note: Oil flows from the inside of the filter to the outside. 3.3 Fill 1. Place funnel in transmission filter hole (this is more accessible than dipstick hole). 2. Fill with 4.5 quarters 15W 40 3. Replace filter, seal, and cap. Note: Transmission oil dipstick can also be removed and wiped clean during this process. 11
4. Miscellaneous 4.1 Storage For winter storage, consider the following: Wipe down interior Remove all seats (for open ventilation) Tape exhaust covers closed (to avoid rodent entry) Plug in battery tender 4.2 Fuel Filter / Fuel Pump Mastercraft recommends changing the fuel filter annually. As of 11/5/2010 I m not aware if this has ever been done. Forum posters indicate that Mastercraft fuel pumps have a tendency to go out (could this be a GM syndrome?), and as a result many have resorted to changing the fuel pump every two or three years. The only filter changes they do are at the same time as the fuel pump replacement. Consider changing out the fuel pump at the end of 2011. 12
5. Service Log Date Hours Item Notes 13