每逢佳節或是值得記念的日子, 我們很多時都會飲用香檳來慶祝芳香馥郁的香氣細緻的氣泡複雜的口感和悠長的餘韻, 的確令人難以抗拒而大家選擇的大多數都是無年份香檳無年份香檳是用不同年份的基酒, 法規可釀造香檳的葡萄包括 Chardonnay Pinot Noir 和 Pinot Meunier,

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1 We used to celebrate with champagne for most festival, and the choice is non vintage champagne. It give us the simple but beautiful and seductive fragrance of the aroma, fine bubbles, and long finish which is delectable and irresistible. Non-vintage champagne is a blend of base wines from several years, using Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier only according to Appellation d Origine Contrôlée regulation, and produces a consistent house style from year to year by the house winemaker (Chef de Cave). Champagne can legally be sold until it has aged with a minimum of 18 months to completely developed all the flavour. Non-vintage champagne is about house style and consistency whereas vintage champagne is made only in exceptional years. To make an exceptional quality and high storage potential champagne, sufficient sunlight, optimum climate and rainfall, harvest in its optimum condition are essential. Champagne house also needs to comply AOC, that vintage champagnes be aged in cellars for three years in lees, but most top producers exceed this minimum requirement, holding bottles on the lees for 5 to 10 years before release. Chef de Cave also reserve base wines for NV for future years, thus vintage champagne normally costs more than non-vintage and with less production. Vintage champagne is thus a tool for Chef de Cave to deliver the personlity of the house style or speciality of the specific vintage to the winelovers. This issue our panel sommeliers share the comments and experiences of the thirteen vintage champagnes, five of them are Blanc de Blancs. W hy Vintage 談年份 20

每逢佳節或是值得記念的日子, 我們很多時都會飲用香檳來慶祝芳香馥郁的香氣細緻的氣泡複雜的口感和悠長的餘韻, 的確令人難以抗拒而大家選擇的大多數都是無年份香檳無年份香檳是用不同年份的基酒, 法規可釀造香檳的葡萄包括 Chardonnay Pinot Noir 和 Pinot Meunier, 經釀酒師調配成為一支穩定而代表著酒莊風格的香檳, 陳年最少十八個月後出廠

2 每逢佳節或是值得記念的日子, 我們很多時都會飲用香檳來慶祝芳香馥郁的香氣細緻的氣泡複雜的口感和悠長的餘韻, 的確令人難以抗拒而大家選擇的大多數都是無年份香檳無年份香檳是用不同年份的基酒, 法規可釀造香檳的葡萄包括 Chardonnay Pinot Noir 和 Pinot Meunier, 經釀酒師調配成為一支穩定而代表著酒莊風格的香檳, 陳年最少十八個月後出廠無年香檳是代表著酒莊統一的風格, 年份香檳則有所不同釀造條件方面, 首先, 年份香檳的葡萄必需 100% 來自同一年份而且質量特別優良才會釀造, 再配合充足的陽光, 適當的溫度和雨水, 收割時良好的天氣環境, 才可以生產出最優秀的葡萄來釀造極具潛藏能力的年份香檳, 酒莊也要遵守國家釀酒的法規, 香檳必須和酵母菌混合至少三年, 酒莊再會陳年五至十年才出廠, 價錢相對也高一點釀酒師也會保留部份基酒作為日後調配無年份香檳之用, 所以年份產量也比較少釀酒師花了這麼多時間來出產一瓶年份香檳, 目的就是希望向愛好者表達一些訊息這次我們邀請了六位品酒師從十三瓶年份香檳中分享他們的意見和心得, 其中有五瓶就是白葡萄香檳 Champagne? 說香檳 21 Cru tasting

ilmart & Cie Brut, Premier Cru 2001 Vwww.champagnevilmart.com Champagne Asia Tel: 6017 1973 info@champagne-asia.

3 ilmart & Cie Brut, Premier Cru 2001 Vwww.champagnevilmart.com Champagne Asia Tel: A Nigel Chan Medium yellowish color, with special red fruits notes, probably contributed by high Pinot percentage. A well-matched acidity and sweetness. Balanced with good finish. 中度黃色, 帶紅色果實香氣, 原因是較高成份的黑葡萄的原因酸度和甜度非常配合, 十分平衡, 適中的收結 Nigel Chan Well ready. Drink now or until 已成熟還可陳年三至五年至 2017 Champagne Vilmart was found by Desire Vilmart in the sleepy hamlet of Rilly in the Montagne de Reims in Laurent Champs is now the fourth generations running the estate. 位於 Montagne de Reims 中 Rilly-la-Montagne 村的 Vilmart 香檳酒莊, 由 Desire Vilmart 先生在 1872 年創立, 經過四代子孫的努力, 相傳至現任釀造師 Laurent Champs 22

rancoise-bedel L Âme de La Terre Millésime 1998 Fwww.champagne-bedel.fr L Imperatrice Fine Wines Tel: 3752 0402 $560 90 2011 2016A Nigel Chan Golden Yellow, very attractive.

4 rancoise-bedel L Âme de La Terre Millésime 1998 Fwww.champagne-bedel.fr L Imperatrice Fine Wines Tel: $ A Nigel Chan Golden Yellow, very attractive. With hints of Bovril, yeast and touch of herbaceousness. Full bodied with precise finish. 金黃色, 非常吸引擁有牛肉膏酵母和香草的香氣圓潤的酒體, 收結適中 Nigel Chan Good and firm acidity. Perfectly maintained for further aging. 扎實的酸度, 很好的陳年狀態 Françoise Bedel is one of the stars of the Champagne biodynamic movement and has a 7 hectares vineyard. Life and respect of nature are essential values for her and in order to leave a sound and living domain for her children, she introduced biodynamic viticulture in 1998, allowing her to achieve harmony with her job and personal life. This viticulture method precludes the use of any synthetic chemical products (fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, or insecticides) and acknowledges the fact that the earth is a living organism and only using traditional methods for vinification to make well balanced, high quality and harmonious wines. 擁有 7 公頃的葡萄園,Françoise Bedel 是生物動力法的代表把尊重生活與大自然的訊息傳給下一代,Françoise Bedel 於 1998 年開始以生物動力法去實踐工作與生命的和諧棄用人工化學的方法 ( 施肥, 除草, 殺蟲 ), 以大自然和日月, 釀造出平衡和諧的香檳 23 Cru tasting

5 erry Bros. & Rudd Brut, Grand Cru Mailly, Millésime 2002 Bwww.bbr.com Berry Bros. & Rudd Hong Kong Tel: $ D Eric Chan Notes of crème caramel, lemon and yeast, Very good acidity. 帶奶油糖檸檬和烤母香氣, 有良好酸度 Eric Chan Drinking well and can develop for 2 more years. 已成熟, 可再陳年二年 Sourced from the prestigious Grand Cru village of Mailly, located at the heart of the Montagne de Reims, and benefiting from 48 months on its lees and thereafter valuable post-disgorgement aging, this Cuvée is a classic blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Berry Bros. & Rudd 特級香檳的生產來自 Montagne de Reims 的中心地帶, 馳名的 Mailly 特級村莊內, 加上釀酒師以 48 個月酵母菌混合和除渣後陳年的技術, 釀造出以 70% Pinot Noir 和 30% Chardonnay 調配的典型香檳 24

6 ierre Paillard Brut, Grand Cru Millésime 2002 Pwww.champagne-pierre-paillard.fr Sinolink Fine Wines Ltd. Tel: $ K Eric Chan Its gold appearance is intensified by extremely fine bubbles. Complex, flavoursome aromas of dried fruits, caramel and chocolate, echoed on the palate. 金黃色, 泡沫非常細緻帶乾果焦糖和巧克力的複雜香氣, 同時反映在口感上 Eric Chan Need time, wait until 應再陳年五年, 效果更好 From generation to generation Pierre Paillard has been growing and making wines in Bouzy since Bouzy is the historical heart of the Champagne area. The oldest vineyard is La Ronsure, a Grand Cru. Total area is roughly 26.9 acres. Pierre Paillard 自 1768 年在 Bouzy 區種植和釀造已是代代相傳 Bouzy 是個歷史悠久的香檳產區最古老的特級葡萄園 La Ronsure, 佔地約 26.9 英畝 25 Cru tasting

Jwww.jacquart-champagne.fr acquart Brut Grand Millésime 2004 Benson Crab & Wine Tel: 2893 1500 $350 89 2011 2016A Terence Wong Unforgettable. Apple, pear, smoky and toast aroma.

7 Jwww.jacquart-champagne.fr acquart Brut Grand Millésime 2004 Benson Crab & Wine Tel: $ A Terence Wong Unforgettable. Apple, pear, smoky and toast aroma. Good and balance acidity. 難忘的感覺蘋果梨煙燻烤烘的香氣平衡及良好的酸度 Terence Wong Ready to drink, will improve greatly with age. 已適合飲用, 陳年更精彩 Champagne Jacquart is the flagship of the Alliance Champagne Group, one of the most important players in champagne production. The Group has the largest area of vineyards in Champagne at its disposal; some 2,400 hectares, equivalent to roughly 7% of the appellation in the best growing area. Jacquart 是 Alliance Champagne 集團的旗艦, 是其中一個最重要的香檳生產商集團擁有最大的葡萄園供應, 約 2,400 公頃, 大約等於最優質生產地的 7% 26

Pwww.polroger.com ol Roger Brut 2000 Altaya Wine Limited Tel: 2523 1945 $590 91 2011 2013D Terence Wong Full of honey, yeast and gunpowder on the nose.

8 Pwww.polroger.com ol Roger Brut 2000 Altaya Wine Limited Tel: $ D Terence Wong Full of honey, yeast and gunpowder on the nose. Crisp with finesse and good minerality, very attractive. 充滿蜜糖烤母和煙燻的香氣清新而細緻的口感, 帶礦物味, 十分討好 Terence Wong Ready to drink. Very impressive. 是時候了, 配菜十分精彩 Pol Roger was founded in 1849 and now owns 87 hectares of vineyards on Vallée d Epernay and Côte des Blancs. It remains family-owned and proudly independent to this day. Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is the house s prestige label as it was the favourite champagne of Sir Winston Churchill. Churchill is quoted as saying of his favourite tipple In victory, deserve it. In defeat, need it!. Pol Roger 建於 1849 年, 現在於 Vallée d Epernay 和 Côte des Blancs 擁有 87 公頃的葡萄園時至今日, 它仍然是值得自豪的家族式經營酒莊由於前英國首相 Winston Churchill 相當喜愛這個酒莊的香檳, 以其命名的香檳 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 就是此酒莊的代表作 27 Cru tasting

aurent Perrier Brut Millésime 2000 Lwww.laurentperrier.com Berry Bros. & Rudd Hong Kong Tel: 2110 1680 $628 88 2011 2019K Ming Ng Very refreshing but restrain.

9 aurent Perrier Brut Millésime 2000 Lwww.laurentperrier.com Berry Bros. & Rudd Hong Kong Tel: $ K Ming Ng Very refreshing but restrain. Clear acidic backbone, with fine bubbles. Notes of cinnamon, baking bread, lemon and dry fruits. 非常清新但收斂酸度作為骨幹, 有細緻的氣泡帶肉桂烤麵包檸檬和葡萄乾的香氣 Ming Ng Youthful, can keep for 8 more years until 2019 to develop its complexity and structure. 仍年輕, 可陳 8 年至 2019 發展複雜度和結構 Laurent-Perrier, founded in 1812 by Alphonse Pierlot. Alphonse Pierlot bestows the company to his cellar master, Eugene Laurent in Eugene Laurent and his wife, Mathilde Emilie Perrier run the champagne house together. Upon Eugene s death in 1887, Mathilde created the brand Veuve Laurent-Perrier & Cie. Then the company was purchased by Marie-Louise Lanson de Nonancourt in Now, Laurent-Perrier has been developed to one of the world s most esteemed champagne brands. Laurent-Perrier 由 Alphonse Pierlot 於 1812 年創立酒莊於 1881 年被送予釀酒師 Eugene Laurent 和他的太太 Mathilde Emilie Perrier 繼續發展 Eugene 在 1887 年去世後,Mathilde 將酒莊命名為 Veuve Laurent-Perrier & Cie 後來酒莊於 1939 被收購現在,Laurrent-Perrier 已發展成為世界上其中一個最受尊崇的香檳品牌 28

aul Goerg Brut Blanc de Blancs, Premier Cru 2004 Pwww.champagne-goerg.com Ponti Wine Cellar Tel: 2810 1000 $438 89 2011 2014A Ming Ng Very crisp, with candy, apricot, and nose of baking bread.

10 aul Goerg Brut Blanc de Blancs, Premier Cru 2004 Pwww.champagne-goerg.com Ponti Wine Cellar Tel: $ A Ming Ng Very crisp, with candy, apricot, and nose of baking bread. Very fine bubbles. 十分清爽, 帶糖果杏脯和烤麵包的香氣, 泡沫非常細緻 Ming Ng Ready now or until 已適宜飲用, 可再陳年三年至 2014 年 Paul Goerg is a champagne producer based in the Vertus region of Champagne. It is located in the famous Côte des Blancs area, the cradle of the greatest Champagne s Chardonnay. The co-operative, founded in 1950, produces vintage and non-vintage cuvee as well as blanc de blancs champagne. Paul Goerg 合作社成立於 1950 年, 設於著名生產 Chardonnay 的 Côte des Blancs 內 Vertus 區的生產商生產年份和無年份香檳, 以及 100%Chardonnay 釀造而成的白葡萄香檳 (Blanc de Blanc) 29 Cru tasting

V www.varnier-fanniere.com arnier-fanniere Avize Brut, Grand Cru Millésime 2004 L Imperatrice Fine Wines Tel: 3752 0402 $500 93 2011 2018K Jordi Chan Loquat, peppery spice, baked apple.

11 V arnier-fanniere Avize Brut, Grand Cru Millésime 2004 L Imperatrice Fine Wines Tel: $ K Jordi Chan Loquat, peppery spice, baked apple. Fruit driven style and has a lovely lengthy finish. 枇杷白胡椒熟蘋果果味主導的香檳, 收結悠長 Jordi Chan Very mature. Drink now or until 十分成熟, 適合飲用, 可陳年至 2018 The Fanniere Family started growing grapes in They used to sell grapes to negociant houses. It was until 1950 that Jean Fanniere decided to produce his own champagne. A grower champagne with four hectares of vineyards in the Grand Cru villages of Avize, Cramant and Oger. Antonio Galloni described the wines as exceptional polish, having superb definition and tons of minerality. Fanniere 家族於 1860 年已開始種植葡萄, 用以賣給香檳廠 Jean Fanniere 於 1950 年決定自行生產香檳, 在 Avize,Cramant 和 Oger 區擁有 4 公頃的特級葡萄園 Antonio Galloni 形容 Fanniere 的香檳是優雅卓越和充滿礦物的結合 30

Montagne de Reims ab Map of Champagne ab Vallée de la Marne Côte des Blancs In this tasting, the 96s, 02s and 04s were outstanding, and with other great vintages including 1985, 1998, 1999, 2000,

12 Montagne de Reims ab Map of Champagne ab Vallée de la Marne Côte des Blancs In this tasting, the 96s, 02s and 04s were outstanding, and with other great vintages including 1985, 1998, 1999, 2000, The general styles of vintage chamagne in this tasting are: 這次試飲的年份香檳有 , 而當中和 04 更是具代表性的出色年份, 以下是這次試飲的年份香檳的不同風格 : 1985 Forward yet balance. Gloriously harmonious, showing good balance with fruitiness and acidity. 濃郁平衡酒體典雅和諧, 展現出果味和酸度的平衡 1996 A great classic year with sufficient sunshine, and was made out to be rich, good ripeness and lush wines. 充足的陽光帶給葡萄足夠的成熟度和酸度, 使人印象深刻, 是一個經典的年份 1998 The wines are generally balanced with great acidity for aging. 酒質平衡酸度充足具陳年潛力 1999 High ripeness with low acidity, not suitable for aging except those with high percentage of Chardonnay. 較為成熟, 當中如果 Chardonnay 的比例高一點的酒會較好酸度較低, 不適宜陳年太久 2000 A vintage of average quality. Overall acidity is lower than 平易近人的好酒, 酸度較 99 年低 2001 Weather varied, only few vintage champgane was produced. 氣候比較不穩定的年份, 陽光不足而且收割時雨水較多, 只有少量酒莊生產年份香檳 2002 Great year comparable with 1988, 1989, Elegant, forward and rich, worth collecting. 一個可以媲美的好年份展現著優雅和濃郁, 絕對值得收藏 2004 A lovely year with beautiful, structured fruitiness and balanced acidity. 非常出色的年份, 果香和酸度十分平衡 Aube 31 Cru tasting

elamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru 1999 Dwww.salondelamotte.com Altaya Wine Limited Tel: 2523 1945 $550 85 2011 2014D Jordi Chan Lemon and smoky toasty notes.

13 elamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru 1999 Dwww.salondelamotte.com Altaya Wine Limited Tel: $ D Jordi Chan Lemon and smoky toasty notes. Dominant with minerality and complexity. 帶檸檬皮和煙燻的香氣, 礦物為主的香檳, 有良好複雜度 Ming Ng Good with Food. Drink now. 適合飲用, 可配菜 The sixth oldest champagne house which was founded in It is based in a fine 18th-century property at Le Mesnil-sur-Oger on the Côte des Blancs. This 12-acre of Grand Cru Chardonnay produces about 1/5 of the company wines. This acts as a benchmark for nearly all champagnes, which are Chardonnay driven, fine and fresh, longlived and elegant. Robert Parker has called Delamotte one of the best buys in exquisitely crafted champagnes. Delamotte- 成立於 1760 年, 是第六大最古老的香檳酒莊十八世紀建於 Côte des Blancs 產區內 Le Mesnilsur-Oger 的主要產業這十二畝特級葡萄田佔了酒莊佔五分之一的產量這酒莊可作為品評以 Chardonnay 葡萄為主香檳的陳年潛力和優雅酒體的參考 Robert Parker 形容 Delamotte 是其中一支最精雕細琢的香檳 32

14 &L Legras, Cuvée Exceptionelle, St. Vincent, Brut Blanc de Blancs 1996 Rwww.champagne-legras.fr Berry Bros. & Rudd Hong Kong Tel: $ D Alan Liu Golden yellow, with pepper and minerality. Very rich with great concentration, has a good balance and acidity. 金黃色, 以胡椒和礦物香氣為主酒體豐厚濃郁, 十分平衡而帶著良好的酸度 Alan Liu Well Ready. 是時候 Founded in the sixteenth century, Legras is one of the great names in Chouilly, the most northerly village of Cote de Blancs. The house style combines a firm and classic structure with a generous fruit profile. Aptly-named, L Exceptionelle shows the height to which Legras can ascend, by the outstanding old Chardonnay vines and the 1996 was one of the great vintages they had ever made. Legras 成立於十六世紀, 是 Cote de Blancs 北部 Chouilly 產區其中一個最有名的酒莊酒莊風格糅合了扎實典型和豐富的果香而被命名為 L Exceptionelle 的香檳, 藉著 Chardonnay 老葡萄樹和 1996 年極佳的氣候下, 毫無疑問地使 Legras 酒莊登上高峰 33 Cru tasting

enoble Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru 2000 Lwww.champagne-lenoble.com Altaya Wine Limited Tel: 2523 1945 $380 89 2011 2011D Alan Liu Pale golden yellow. Developing nose of lemon and licorice.

15 enoble Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru 2000 Lwww.champagne-lenoble.com Altaya Wine Limited Tel: $ D Alan Liu Pale golden yellow. Developing nose of lemon and licorice. Silky and fluffy finish. 淡金黃色, 檸檬和甘草香氣輕身, 收結略短 Alan Liu Truly impressive. Drink now. 適合飲用, 確實精彩 Armand-Raphaël Graser left Alsace in 1915 and started to produce champagne in an 18th -century building in the town of Damery, which is still the company headquarters today, under the brand name AR Lenoble. A.R. stood for Armand-Raphaël and Lenoble was a tribute to the nobility of champagne. A very firm champagne house attached to its roots and its history with four generations. Armand-Raphaël Graser 於 1915 年離開 Alsace 後便到 Damery 區生產香檳, 至今仍是公司的總部, 而且以 AR Lenoble 為名 AR 的意思是 Armand-Raphaël, 而 Lenoble 貴族是對香檳的致敬作為一所穩健的香檳酒莊, 現已傳到第四代 34

almer & Co. Brut Blanc de Blancs 1985 Pwww.watsonswine.com Watson s Wine Cellar Tel: 2606 8828 $888 95 2011 2014A Alan Liu Golden Yellow.

16 almer & Co. Brut Blanc de Blancs 1985 Pwww.watsonswine.com Watson s Wine Cellar Tel: $ A Alan Liu Golden Yellow. Attractive nose of lemon, grapefruit peel, pepper, white flowers and minerals. Balanced structure and finish. 金黃色, 帶檸檬, 柚子皮及胡椒粒, 白花和礦物的香氣適中的酒體和收結 Alan Liu Drink now, can last and doesn t show its age. 是時候但確值得珍藏 Palmer is one of the best cooperatives in Champagne (Société Coopérative de Producteurs des Grands Terroirs de la Champagne) and one small enough to concentrate on quality. The house style is full of characters as a result of good teamwork of four oenogists at the blending stage. More unusually for a cooperative, Palmer has a very good collection of Museum wines dating back to Palmer 是其中一個最重於質量的香檳合作社 (Société Coopérative de Producteurs des Grands Terroirs de la Champagne), 酒莊的風格在四位釀酒師合作調配的時候已反映出來與其他的香檳合作社不同,Palmer 仍存有遠至 1947 年的香檳珍藏 35 Cru tasting

17 Ming Ng Sommelier of Bo Innovation. Bo Innovation 品酒師 Alan Liu Bar Manager of American Club. Champion of Hong Kong Best Sommelier Competition 2008 and 2nd runner-up of Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 美國會酒吧經理 2008 年度香港品酒師大賽冠軍和 2010 年度大中華區品酒師大賽季軍 Terence Wong Sommelier of Nobu, InterContinental Hong Kong. Champion of the Penfolds Best Sommelier Competition 洲際酒店 Nobu 日本餐廳品酒師,2010 年度奔富香港品酒師大賽冠軍 Eric Chan Sommelier of Cafe Grey Deluxe, The Upper House. 奕居酒店 Cafe Grey Deluxe 品酒師 Jordi Chan Sommelier of Gaddi s. The 1st runner-up of the Penfolds Best Sommelier Competition and merit award of Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 半島酒店 Gaddi s 法國餐廳品酒師 2010 年度奔富香港品酒師大賽亞軍和大中華區品酒師大賽優異獎 Nigel Chan Sommelier of Hotel ICON. Guest writer of Capital magazine and guest tutor of wine club of the Hong Kong Baptist University. Hotel ICON 品酒師資本雜誌專欄作家, 香港浸會大學葡萄酒學會客席助教 36

sicilia

sicilia Time Traveling with Sicily When speaking of Italian wines, most people would immediately think of the famous wines of Tuscany or Piedmont, but there are regions in the country just as great as those two.