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1 热带海洋学报 JOURNAL OF TROPICAL OCEANOGRAPHY 海洋水文学 2011 年第 30 卷第 5 期 : WAVEWATCH SWAN 1, 江丽芳 2, 张志旭 1, 齐义泉 1, 陈荣裕 1. ( ), ; 2., : , (NCEP) (NCAR), NCEP/NCAR NCEP/NCAR, WAVEWATCH (WW3) Simulatig Waves Nearshore SWAN 2,, WW3 SWAN, WW3 SWAN ;, SWAN, WW3,, : ; WAVEWATCH ; SWAN; ; 中图分类号 : P731 文献标识码 : A 文章编号 : (2011) Simulatios of the orther South Chia Sea usig WAVEWATCH Ⅲ ad SWAN JIANG Li-fag 1, 2, ZHANG Zhi-xu 1, QI Yi-qua 1, CHEN Rog-yu 1 1. State Key Laboratory of Tropical Oceaography (South Chia Sea Istitute of Oceaology, CAS), Guagzhou , Chia; 2. Graduate Uiversity of CAS, Beijig , Chia Abstract: We study the applicability of the Natioal Ceters Evirometal Predictio/Uiversity Corporatio for Atmospheric Research (NCEP/NCAR) reaalysis wid field usig the buoy data icludig the wid speed, sigificat wave height ad mea wave period from September 1987 to August 1988 i the orther South Chia Sea (SCS). To some extet, the NCEP/NCAR reaalysis wid speed is cosistet with the buoy data i the orther SCS. The we assess the simulatios usig wave models WAVEWATCH Ⅲ (WW3) ad Simulatig Waves Nearshore (SWAN) forced by the NCEP/NCAR reaalysis data. The results show that the simulatios of the sigificat wave height (SWH) from the two models are almost the same durig the mosoo ad mosoo trasitio periods. The simulatio of the mea wave period (MWP) from the WW3 is better tha that from the SWAN durig the mosoo period, while the results are just cotrary durig the mosoo trasitio period. The spatial characteristics from the WW3 simulatio i the orther SCS are preseted. The SWH affected by mosoo shows sigificat seasoal chage i the orther SCS, while the MWP presets certai semi-aual variability. Key words: orther South Chia Sea; WAVEWATCH Ⅲ; SWAN; sigificat wave height; mea wave period,,,, 1960 WAve predictio Model WAM [1] 收稿日期 : ; 修订日期 : 基金项目 : (2008AA09A404-3); (2008FY110100) 作者简介 : (1983 ),,,, lifagjiag@scsio.ac.c

2 28 Vol. 30, No. 5 / Sep., 2011 [2], WAVEWATCH Ⅲ(WW3) [3-4] Simulatig Waves Nearshore SWAN,, [3-8],,, [9],, [10] [11-14] Chu [11] WW TOPEX/Poseido (T/P), T/P Chu [12] WW3 2004, Qi [13] 30, Qu [14] SWAN, WW3 SWAN, WW3, SWAN [11-14], 2,, SWAN , WW3 SWAN 2, WW3 NOAA NCEP Delft Goddard WAVEWATCH [15-16] WAVEWATCH [17] SWAN Delft [18-19] WW3 SWAN, WW3 JONSWAP, SWAN WW3,, SWAN 1.2 WW3 SWAN, E N, 5, 5m, 0.125º 0.125º, 15mi 25, Hz, 15º , h 1.3 MAREX ( 1) 1 ( ) WW3 SWAN 6m, 4 6h NCEP/NCAR, 6m 10m [20-21], (1) [22] : V 10 = u* z l K z (1) 0 0 z ; K 0, 0.4; V 10 10m ; z 0 ; u * a c [23], 2 u* z0 ac g = (2) 3 a c = 7 10 ; g

[25-26] NCEP/NCAR, NCEP/NCAR 0.86m s 1, 0.88( t, 95% ),, NCEP/NCAR 2b, WW3 SWAN 9 3 5 8, 11, 5m, WW3 SWAN, 9m, WW3 SWAN WW3 SWAN, 0.89, SWAN 0.75 WW3 2 NECP/NCAR NCEP/NCAR 1.875º 1.

3 : WAVEWATCH SWAN 29 1 Fig. 1 Topography of the orther SCS, with the black star (20º48 N, 115º42 E) showig the positio of the buoy 1.4 (BIAS) (RMSE) (R) [24] : BIAS = 1 x i y i (3) R= i= 1 i i 2 (4) i=1 ( xi x)( yi y) i= 1 (5) 2 2 ( xi x) ( yi y) i= 1 i= 1 1 RMSE = (x y ) x y t t = 2 ν = 2 t R 1 R 2 (6) 5m s 1, 10 11, NCEP/ NCAR [25-26] NCEP/NCAR, NCEP/NCAR 0.86m s 1, 0.88( t, 95% ),, NCEP/NCAR 2b, WW3 SWAN , 11, 5m, WW3 SWAN, 9m, WW3 SWAN WW3 SWAN, 0.89, SWAN 0.75 WW3 2 NECP/NCAR NCEP/NCAR 1.875º 1.905º, 6h [24-25] NCEP/NCAR, WW3 SWAN ( 2a), NCEP/NCAR 10 11, 11, 2 WW3 SWAN a. ;b.,, ;c. Fig. 2 Comparisos betwee observatios ad simulatios by the WW3 ad SWAN models. (a) Wid speed; (b) sigificat wave height (the sigificat differece betwee the simulatios ad the observatios are highlighted by the ovals, ad the arrowheads idicate the biggest SWH from the models ad buoy); ad (c) mea wave period

4 30 Vol. 30, No. 5 / Sep., , SWAN WW3, WW3 SWAN, WW3 0.93, SWAN 0.41,, WW3 SWAN NCEP/NCAR, NCEP/NCAR 6 8, 10 4 [9] 5 9,,, NCEP/NCAR, 4 : 9 1, , 5 3, (SLOPE) [26-27] 1 3,, NCEP/NCAR,, 9, 3 4 NCEP/NCAR a. 9 ; b ; c. 5 ; d. 6 8 Fig. 3 Comparisos betwee the NCEP/NCAR reaalysis wid speed at the buoy site ad buoy data durig four periods: (a) i September, (b) durig October-April, (c) i May, ad (d) durig Jue-August. Black dashed lie presets the best-fit lie of the simulatios ad observatios ( 1), NCEP/NCAR NCEP/NCAR NCEP/NCAR, NCEP/NCAR, NCEP/NCAR,,,

5 : WAVEWATCH SWAN 31, WW3 SWAN 表 1 NCEP/NCAR 再分析风场在浮标点处的风速和观测值对比的统计结果 Tab. 1 Statistical compariso of NCEP/NCAR reaalysis wid field at the buoy site ad buoy observatio / /(m s 1 ) /(m s 1 ) /(m s 1 ) WW3 SWAN ,, WW3 SWAN 4, NCEP/ NCAR,, 9, ( 2), WW , SWAN , SWAN WW3 4, WW3 SWAN, 4 4 WW3 a. 9 ; b ; c. 5 ; d. 6 8 Fig. 4 Compariso betwee the sigificat wave heights (SWHs) from WW3 ad the observatio durig four periods: (a) i September, (b) durig October April, (c) i May, ad (d) durig Jue August. Black dashed lie presets the best-fit slope of model s results ad observatios , WW3 4 SWAN

6 32 Vol. 30, No. 5 / Sep., SWAN a. 9 ; b ; c. 5 ; d Fig. 5 Compariso betwee the SWHs from SWAN ad the observatio durig four periods: (a) i September, (b) durig October April, (c) i May, ad (d) durig Jue August. Black dashed lie presets the best-fit slope of model s results ad observatios 表 2 两个海浪模式模拟的有效波高和观测值之间对比的统计结果 Tab. 2 Statistical compariso of SWHs from the models ad observatio /(m s 1 ) /(m s 1 ) WW3 SWAN WW3 SWAN WW3 SWAN WW3 SWAN 表 3 两个海浪模式模拟的平均波周期和观测值之间对比的统计结果 Tab. 3 Statistically comparisos of mea wave periods (MWPs) from models ad observatio /(m s 1 ) /(m s 1 ) WW3 SWAN WW3 SWAN WW3 SWAN WW3 SWAN , WW3 0.84, SWAN 0.72, SWAN WW3,, WW3 0.70,, 0.30( 6) 3 SWAN 1( 7),, 4 SWAN,,, 5

7 : WAVEWATCH SWAN WW3 a. 9 ; b ; c. 5 ; d. 6 8 Fig. 6 Compariso betwee the MWPs from WW3 ad the observatio durig four periods: (a) i September, (b) durig October April, (c) i May, ad (d) durig Jue August. Black dashed lie presets the best-fit slope of model s results ad observatios 7 4 SWAN a. 9 ; b ; c. 5 ; d. 6 8 Fig. 7 Compariso betwee the MWPs from SWAN ad the observatio durig four periods: (a) i September, (b) durig October April, (c) i May, ad (d) durig Jue August. Black dashed lie presets the best-fit slope of model s results ad observatios,, WW3 SWAN, WW3 SWAN ;, SWAN

34 Vol. 30, No. 5 / Sep., 2011 WW3,, NCEP/NCAR, NCEP/ NCAR,,,,, 4 WW3 SWAN, 1987 9 1988 8 WW3, 0.98m, 12, 2.07m NE N, 27.20% 25.30%, SW 18.70%, 4.15s, 3.00 7.00s 12, 5.

8 34 Vol. 30, No. 5 / Sep., 2011 WW3,, NCEP/NCAR, NCEP/ NCAR,,,,, 4 WW3 SWAN, WW3, 0.98m, 12, 2.07m NE N, 27.20% 25.30%, SW 18.70%, 4.15s, s 12, 5.29s, ( 8), 9,,, 7 (10 4 ) 5,,, 4m s 1,,, 3 (6 8 ) 9 1.5m,, ( 9) 5,, 1m, 114º 116ºE 17º 18ºN, 116ºE,, 8 4 NCEP/NCAR a. 9 ; b ; c. 5 ; d. 6 8 m s 1 Fig. 8 Spatial distributio of the NCEP/NCAR reaalysis wid field durig the four periods: (a) i September, (b) durig October April, (c) i May, ad (d) durig Jue August

: WAVEWATCH SWAN 35 9 4 WW3 ( : m) a. 9 ; b. 10 4 ; c. 5 ; d. 6 8 Fig.

October April, (c) i May, ad (d) durig Jue August 9, WW3, ( 10),,,, 5,, 4,, 10 4 WW3 ( : s) a. 9 ; b. 10 4 ; c.

9 : WAVEWATCH SWAN WW3 ( : m) a. 9 ; b ; c. 5 ; d. 6 8 Fig. 9 Spatial distributio of sigificat wave height from WW3 durig the four periods: (a) i September, (b) durig October April, (c) i May, ad (d) durig Jue August 9, WW3, ( 10),,,, 5,, 4,, 10 4 WW3 ( : s) a. 9 ; b ; c. 5 ; d. 6 8 Fig. 10 Spatial distributio of mea wave period from WW3 durig four periods: (a) i September, (b) durig October April, (c) i May, ad (d) durig Jue August

10 36 Vol. 30, No. 5 / Sep., WW3 SWAN,,, , NCEP/NCAR, NCEP/NCAR, NCEP/NCAR,,, WW3 SWAN 4, SWAN WW3, WW3 SWAN ;, SWAN WW3, WW3 SWAN, WW3,, 5 9, [1] WAMDI GROUP. The WAM model: A third geeratio wid wave model [J]. Joural of Physical Oceaography, 1998, 18: [2] SWAMP GROUP. Ocea Wave Modelig [M]. New York: Pleum Press, 1985: 256. [3] TOLMAN H L, BALASUBRAMANIYAN B, BURROUGHS L D, et al. Developmet ad implemetatio of wid geerated ocea surface wave models at NCEP [J]. Weather ad Forecastig, 2002, 17(2): [4] TOLMAN H L. User maual ad system documetatio of WACEWATCH Ⅲ versio 2.22[R]. Washigto, USA: NOAA/NWS/NCEP, [5] TOLMAN H L. Validatio of a ew global wave forecast system at NCEP [M]. Washigto, USA: America Society of Civil Egieers, 1998, [6] WINGEART K M, REILLY W C, HERBERS T H C, et al. Validatio of operatioal global wave predictio models with spectral buoy data[m]. Washigto, USA: America Society of Civil Egieers, 2001, [7] RIS R C, HOLTHUIJSEN L H, BOOIJ N. A third geeratio wave model for coastal regios 2. verificatio [J]. Joural of Geophysical Research, 1999, 104(C4): [8] ROGERS W E, KAIHATU J M, HSU L, et al. Forecastig ad hidcastig waves with the SWAN model i the Souther Califoria Bight [J]. Coastal Egieerig, 2007, 54: [9] CHU P C, LU S H, CHEN Y C. Temporal ad spatial variabilities of South Chia Sea surface temperature aomaly [J]. Joural of Geophysical Research, 1997, 102(C9): [10],,. [C]//. :, 2003: [11] CHU P C, QI Y Q, CHEN Y C, et al. South Chia Sea wid-wave characteristics: Part : Validatio of WAVEWATCH Ⅲ usig TOPEX/Poseido data [J]. Joural of Atmospheric ad Oceaic Techology, 2004, 21: [12] CHU P C, CHENG K F. South Chia Sea Wave characteristics durig typhoo Muifa passage i witer 2004[J]. Joural of Oceaography, 2008, 64:1-21. [13] QI Y Q, ZHANG Z X, SHI P. Extreme wid, wave ad curret i deep water of South Chia Sea[J]. Iteratioal Joural of Offshore ad Polar Egieerig, 2010, 20(1): [14] QU S H, LIAU J M, HSU T W, et al. Simulatig typhoo waves by SWAN wave model i coastal waters of Taiwa [J]. Ocea Egieerig, 2001, 29: [15] TOLMAN H L. The umerical model WAVEWATCH: A third geeratio model for the hidcastig of wid waves o tides i shelf seas [J]. Commuicatio o Hydraulic ad Geotechical Egieerig, Delhi Uiversity of Techology, 1989, 89(2):1-72. [16] HOLTHUIJSEN L H, TOLAMN H L. Effects of the Gulf stream o ocea waves [J]. Joural of Geophysical Research, 1991, 96(C7): 12,755 12,771. [17] TOLMAN H L. Effects of umerics o the physics i a third-geeratio wid-wave model [J]. Joural of Physical Oceaography, 1992, 22: [18] BOOIJ N, HOLTHUIJSEN L H, RIS R C. The SWAN wave model for shallow water[c]. Orlado: Proceedig of 24th Iteratioal Coferece o Coastal Egieerig, 1996.

11 : WAVEWATCH SWAN [19] BOOIJ N, RIS R C, HOLTHIJSEN L H. A third-geeratio wave model for coastal regio. Part : model descriptio ad validatio [J]. Joural of Geophysical Research, 1999, 104(C4): [20] BLACKADAR A K. The vertical distributio of wid ad turbulet exchage i a eutral atmosphere [J]. Joural of Geophysical Research, 1962, 67(8): [21] PANOFSKY H A. Tower micrometeorogy[c]//haugheb D A. Workshop o Micrometeorology. America Meteorology Society, 1973: [22] PENA A, GRYNING S E. Charock s roughess legth model ad o-dimesioal wid profiles over the sea [J]. Boudary-layer Meteorology, 2008, 128(2): [23] CHARNOCK H. Wid stress over a water surface [J]. Quarterly Joural of the Royal Meteorological Society, 1955, 81: [24]. [M]. :, 1999: [25] KALNAY E, KANAMITSU M, KUSTKER R, et al. The NCEP/ NCAR 40-year reaalysis project [J]. Bulleti of the America Meteorological Society, 1996, 77(3): [26] JOSEY S A, KENT E C, TAYLOR P K. Wid stress forcig of the ocea i the SOC climatology: comparisos with the NCEP-NCAR, ECMWF, UWM/COADS, ad Hellerma ad Rosestei datasets [J]. Joural of Physical Oceaography, 2002, 32: [27] CAVALERI L, BERTOTTI L. The improvemet of modelled wid ad wave fields with icreasig resolutio [J]. Ocea Egieerig, 2006, 33(5-6):

Microsoft Word - 江丽芳_四_.doc

Microsoft Word - 江丽芳_四_.doc 热带海洋学报 JOURNAL OF TROPICAL OCEANOGRAPHY 海洋水文学 doi:10.3969/j.issn.1009-5470.2012.04.002 2012 年第 31 卷第 4 期 : 8 16 http://www.jto.ac.cn 钦州湾台风浪的多年一遇极值推算 1, 2, 江丽芳 3, 尹毅 1, 齐义泉