cover

Transcription

1 ISSUE

2 A Culinary Trip to France: Savour the Good Food and Meet the Suppliers 法國美饌交流之旅 In October, the Champion of the Angliss Discovery Culinary Tournament, 2012 Master Chef Category, Jeong-in Hwang, took a five-day culinary trip to France along with local press, led by Jerome Heuze, the General Manager of Gourmet Cuisine Hong Kong Limited. The itinerary was a packed one, including a tour to Hennequart Fish Farm in Sologne where the secrets of caviar production were revealed. There is a limit to how much Baerii caviar this farm can produce and it can only supply a number of two- and three-michelin-starred restaurants. The next destination was a visit to the headquarter of the world-famous Feyel brand at Strasbourg, which boasts a history of more than two centuries of using more than a dozen different spices to produce its finest foie gras. The team then had the chance of savouring fine foods at L Auberge de L ill, a three-michelin-starred restaurant in Alsace. According to those who were there, the most memorable dish, Terrine of Foie Gras, was rich and delicate beyond description. A less relaxing part of the trip perhaps was having to get up early and visit Marché de Rungis, the largest fresh food market in Europe where different kinds of meat, seafood, cheese, vegetables and even flowers can be found. In fact, 80% of the food there goes to the restaurants, open markets and supermarkets around Paris. I realise that not everyone can just drop everything and rush off to France to sample these freshest of French foods. However, just give Jerome and his team a ring, and, with their help, these foods are really not that far away. 高美食材香港有限公司的總經理 Jerome Heuze, 在十月份和 2012 安得利美饌廚藝大賽至尊榮譽獎得主黃政仁 (Jeongin Hwang) 及傳媒朋友於法國展開了五天美饌交流之旅 行程包括前往位於 Sologne 的鱘魚養殖場 Hennequart Fish Farm, 親睹整個魚子醬製作過程 此養殖場的 Baerii 魚子產量有限, 只供應給米芝蓮 2 星及 3 星餐廳 接着團隊參觀位於斯特拉斯堡 (Strasbourg) 擁有超過二百年歷史的鴨鵝肝品牌 Feyel 之總部, 了解產品製作過程及品嘗以十三種香料秘製成的 Feyel 鴨鵝肝產品 意猶未盡之際, 大伙兒接續在位於阿爾薩斯 (Alsace), 米芝蓮 3 星級的 L Auberge de I ill 享用豐富晚宴 ; 其最馳名的菜式鵝肝 Terrine, 入口細滑甘香, 令大家一試難忘 對於廚師和飲食版編輯而言, 凌晨四時到訪歐洲最大的新鮮食品供應巿場 Marché de Rungis 是一個大開眼界的體驗 巿場除供應魚類海鮮, 還有各式的肉類 蔬果 芝士和花卉, 那裡的新鮮食品有 80% 都供往巴黎各餐廳 超級巿場或露天巿集 大家或許不能即時到法國尋覓優質食材, 但其實你找 Jerome 的團隊就能輕鬆採購這些法國美食

3 hot talk [1&2] Vincent Hennequart and his sister operate this sturgeon farm, each sturgeon is the result of their hard work [3] Three-Michelin-starred restaurant L Auberge de I ill [4] Wild game at Rungis market, such as boar, duck and rabbit [5] L écrevisse supplies fresh blue lobsters, langoustines and crabs [6] Rungis Market at dawn [7&8] Ox Heart tomatoes and girolle mushrooms [9] A delicious meal featuring Feyel s smoked duck breast [10] After manual cleaning, Feyel s foie gras is flavoured using their special recipe, then cooked sous vide [11] Cold smoked duck breast is another of Feyel s star products [1&2] Vincent Hennequart 與其姊姊一同合作打理這個鱘魚養殖場, 手上的鱘魚便是他們的心血結晶 [3] 米芝蓮 3 星級的餐廳 L Auberge de I ill [4] Rungis 市場內野豬 野水鴨 野兔等野味 [5] L écrevisse 供應新鮮的藍龍蝦 小龍蝦和蟹 [6] 清晨時份的 Rungis Market [7&8] 外型獨特的 Ox Heart 蕃茄和 girolle 雞油菌 [9] 以 Feyel 煙燻鴨胸炮製的佳餚 [10] Feyel 鵝肝由人手逐件挑筋後, 加入秘製調味粉及以真空慢煮 [11] 冷煙燻鴨胸是 Feyel 另一星級產品 10 01

4 hot talk branches Angliss Beijing Food Service Limited 安得利 ( 北京 ) 食品貿易有限公司 #59, Shunhuang Road, Huanggang, Chaoyang District, Beijing, China 北京市朝陽區黃港順黃路 59 號 T F Angliss Beijing Food Service Limited Tianjin Branch 安得利 ( 北京 ) 食品貿易有限公司 天津辦事處 Rm 214,Yunhan Building, No.185 Qinjian Road, Hongqiao District, Tianjin, China 天津市紅橋區勤儉道 185 號雲漢大廈 214 室 T F Angliss Shanghai Food Service Limited 安得利上海食品有限公司 Block B, 5/F, No.4 Building, No.1 Hongqiao Headquarters No.100 Zixiu Road, Minhang District, Shanghai, China 上海巿閔行區虹橋鎮紫秀路 100 號 ( 近吳中路 合川路 ) 虹橋總部 1 號 4 號樓 5 樓 B 座 T F Angliss Shanghai Food Service Limited - Hangzhou Branch Company 安得利上海食品有限公司 - 杭州分公司 Room 506, No.1118 DongXin Road, Xiacheng District, Hangzhou, China 杭州市下城區東新路 1118 號 506 室 T F Angliss Guangzhou Food Service Co. Limited 廣州安得利福斯食品有限公司 Unit 01-08, 25/F, Jia Xing Square, 22 Bai Yun Road, Guangzhou, China 廣州市越秀區白雲路 22 號嘉星廣場 室 T F Angliss Chengdu Food Service Co. Limited 成都安得利福斯食品有限公司 Unit 09-10, 26/F, Building A, Long Hu San Qian Xing Zuo Construction of North Road Section 3, Chenghua District, Chengdu, Sichuan, China 成都巿成華區建設北路三段 2 號龍湖三千星座 A 幢 26 樓 室 T F Angliss Shenzhen Food Service Limited 安得利 ( 深圳 ) 食品有限公司 Building 3B, Block B, Baosheng Industrial District No. 1 Mabu Road Bainikeng Village, Pinghu Town Longgang District, Shenzhen, China 深圳巿平湖鎮白坭坑村麻布路 1 號寶盛工業區 B 區第 3B 楝 T F Haikou Angliss Food Service Limited 海口安得利食品有限公司 Villa #23, Midhill Garden, 1 Jin Mao Zhong Lu, Haikou, Hainan, China 海口市金貿中路 1 號半山花園別墅 23 楝 T F Angliss Xi an Food Service Limited 安得利 ( 西安 ) 食品有限公司 North Gate of Daily Chemical Factory, No.7 Zhangba North Road Yanta District, Xi an, China 西安巿雁塔區丈八路 7# 南風日化北門 T F Hunan Angliss Food Service Limited 湖南安得利嘉食品貿易有限公司 Baijiahe Warehouse, Changsha Railway Company, Xiangjiang South Road, Xinkaipu,Tianxin District, Changsha, China 長沙市天心區新開鋪湘江南路長鐵總公司柏家河倉庫 T F Angliss Macau Food Service Limited 安得利澳門飲食服務有限公司 Rua dos Pescadores, Edf Industrial Ocean II Fase 4-Andar C & D, Macau 澳門漁翁街 號海洋工業中心 2 期 4 樓 C&D 室 T F PastryGlobal Food Service Limited 嘉寶食品有限公司 Unit B, 3/F., Yoo Hoo Tower, 38 Kwai Fung Crescent Kwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong 香港新界葵涌葵豐街 38 號 Yoo Hoo Tower 3 樓 B 室 T F PastryGlobal Singapore Pte. Ltd. 232 Pandan Loop, Singapore T F L Atelier du Goût Hong Kong 賞味坊 Shop A2, G/F, Yoo Hoo Tower, 38 Kwai Fung Crescent Kwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong 香港新界葵涌葵豐街 38 號大鴻輝中心二期地下 A2 鋪 T F foodtalk 名廚坊 New Territories shop: G/F, 38 Kwai Fung Crescent Kwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong 香港新界葵涌葵豐街 38 地下 T F Hong Kong Island shop: G/F, 23 First Street Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong 香港西營盤第一街 23 號地下 T F Kowloon shop: G/F, 21 Nanking Street Jordan, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龍佐敦南京街 21 號地下 T F Him Kee Food Distribution Company Limited 謙記食品貿易有限公司 3/F., East Asia Industrial Building, No.2 Ho Tin Street Tuen Mun, N.T., Hong Kong 香港新界屯門河田街 2 號東亞紗廠工業大廈 3 樓 T F Jetstar (Tsukiji) Hong Kong Company Limited 捷達 ( 築地 ) 香港有限公司 Flat , 8/F., Tai Hung Fai Centre Tower Container Port Road, Kwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong 香港新界葵涌貨櫃碼頭路 號大雄輝中心 1 期 8 樓 室 T F Gourmet Cuisine Hong Kong Limited 高美食材香港有限公司 Unit B, 9/F., Yoo Hoo Tower, 38 Kwai Fung Crescent Kwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong 香港新界葵涌葵豐街 38 號 Yoo Hoo Tower 9 樓 B 室 T F Gourmet Partner (M) Sdn Bhd No.7, Jalan Anggerik Mokara 31/45, Seksyen 31 Kota Kemuning, Shah Alam Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia T F Gourmet Partner Singapore (A Division of Angliss Singapore Pte Ltd) 232 Pandan Loop, Singapore T F Angliss Singapore Pte Ltd 232 Pandan Loop, Singapore T F

5 contents 05 Amuse Bouche A word from Managing Director, Johnny Kang 14 Hot Talk What does Haute Cuisine mean nowadays? 06 Behind the Stoves 16 The Young Master of Patisserie, Chef Stéphane Vieux Slice of the Past Culinary Misnomers Special Report Culinary Trip to France with Master Chef Champion of the Angliss Discovery Culinary Tournament Belcolade Chocolate Seminar Best pastry chefs indulge in Anchor Cheese Sweet Talk Bean to bonbon, Chef Stéphane Leroux Talk Fresh Oysters Cadoret Riverlands Black Angus Chef s Talk Chef Nancy Tien s Team Spirit Talk of the Town & Globe Events, shows and new restaurants in Greater China and around the world Recipes Foie Gras Royale & Ice-Fire Foie Gras features Special Report A look at the spectacular culinary trip to France with the Champion of the Angliss Discovery Culinary Tournament Chef Stéphane Leroux The master chocolatier talks about cocoa beans and bonbons Hot Talk From locavorism to farmto-table, to cooking on a molecular level, how is haute cuisine changing? Riverlands Black Angus From the pristine hinterlands of New Zealand comes this beautiful beef, selected for their superior quality 二十五期 Published by: Editor-in-Chief Janice Leung Editor Grace Chan Project Manager Winnie Wong Creative Director Lucia Cahyaningtyas Chinese Translation A Chan of RR Donnelley 總編輯 Janice Leung 編輯 Grace Chan 項目统籌 Winnie Wong 設計及藝術總監 Lucia Cahyaningtyas 翻譯 A Chan of RR Donnelley Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Limited Kwai Fung Crescent Kwai Chung, N.T. Hong Kong T F info@angliss.com.hk Foodtalk is published quarterly by Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Ltd Copyright Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Ltd. All rights reserved. Foodtalk 季刊由安得利香港餐飲有限公司出版 2012 安得利香港餐飲有限公司版權所有, 不得翻印 出版 : 安得利香港餐飲有限公司香港新界葵涌葵豐街 號電話 傳真 info@angliss.com.hk 03

6 contents 03 Amuse Bouche A word from Managing Director, Johnny Kang 14 Who s Talking Food photography for the masses by food blogger Philip Chui Behind the Stoves Interview with Chef Alain Guillet Slice of the Past A Truffle Story Talk Fresh Sustainably delicious - Clearwater Seafoods Lobster Sosa, the leader of texture and flavour modifiers for avant-garde gastronomy Hot Talk What the rich are spending on, and how they spend it Special Report Angliss sponsors a fundraiser for You Dao in Shanghai Chocolate competition in Shenzhen Chef s Talk Interview with Chef Tony Chiu, Executive Chef of Ocean Park China Talk A foodie s guide to Beijing, from the Angliss Beijing team Talk of the Town & Globe Events, shows and new restaurants in Greater China and around the world They Talk Food+Tech Connect, linking information technology & food features Precision Pastry Behind the Stoves with longtime French expat, Chef Alain Guillet, Pastry Chef of Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong Succulence of the Sea Why Canadian Clearwater Lobsters can be wild, sustainable and so delicious How to Spend it Indeed the rich are spending more on luxury dining, but what about their expectations? A Truffle Story The elusive truffle has mesmerised gourmands for thousands of years 二十一期 Published by: Editor-in-Chief Janice Leung Editor Grace Chan Project Manager Winnie Wong Creative Director Lucia Cahyaningtyas Chinese Translation A Chan of RR Donnelley 總編輯 Janice Leung 編輯 Grace Chan 項目统籌 Winnie Wong 設計及藝術總監 Lucia Cahyaningtyas 翻譯 A Chan of RR Donnelley Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Ltd , Kwai Fung Crescent, Kwai Chung, N.T. Hong Kong T F info@angliss.com.hk Foodtalk is published bi-monthly by Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Ltd Copyright Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Ltd. All rights reserved. Foodtalk 雙月刊由安得利香港餐飲有限公司出版 2011 安得利香港餐飲有限公司版權所有, 不得翻印 出版 : 安得利香港餐飲有限公司香港新界葵涌葵豐街 號電話 傳真 info@angliss.com.hk 02

7 amuse bouche...we re widening our focus to the Asian region 我們將會把重點進一步投放到亞洲地區 Welcome to the 25th issue of Foodtalk. The year has flown by, and I m delighted to announce an abundance of new initiatives and achievements at Angliss. Moving forward, we are widening our focus to the Asian region as a whole in terms of business development, product sourcing and branding alignment, with the view of further enhancing cooperation and learning between sister companies and different markets. You will witness increased collaboration amongst Angliss teams throughout Asia. In this issue of Foodtalk for instance, you ll notice interviews from chefs based in Singapore and Mainland China. In Mainland China in particular, we are committed to investing resources to capturing the growth in second- and third-tier cities. We now have offices in Tianjin, Hangzhou, Chengdu, Xian and Hunan. Mainland China will also have a separate National China Retail team to serve key national accounts, bringing in more renowned international brands for the retail market. In Hong Kong, we are pleased to announce the opening of our 3rd foodtalk retail shop in Nanking Street to satisfy the appetites of gourmands in Kowloon. The winning foie gras recipes from the Angliss Discovery Culinary Tournament 2012 will be published, so you can prepare these dishes at home and enjoy them with your family and friends in the festive season. 第 25 期的 Foodtalk 與大家見面了! 時光飛逝,2012 年又即將過去, 我在此一方面會與各位分享安得利所取得的佳績, 另一方面亦將欣然宣佈多項新舉措 展望將來, 在業務發展 產品採購及品牌整合方面, 我們將會把重點進一步投放到亞洲地區, 以期提升與各個聯屬企業及市場的合作與交流 來年各位將能見到亞洲的安得利團隊展現更廣泛的協作 以本期的 Foodtalk 為例, 你就能讀到新加坡和中國內地名廚的訪問 特別是對中國內地市場而言, 我們致力於在增長迅速的第二線和第三線城市投入更多的資源 舉例來說, 我們在天津 杭州 成都 西安和湖南已經開設了辦事處 針對中國內地的市場, 我們亦特設了獨立的中國國家零售團隊, 以服務主要的全國性客戶, 為零售市場帶來更多著名的國際品牌 至於香港方面, 我們欣然宣佈第 3 間的名廚坊已於南京街隆重開業, 並以服務九龍區的食家為己任 本期刊出了 2012 年安得利美饌廚藝大賽得獎者的鵝肝食譜, 所以在這個普天同慶的佳節, 你也可以在家裡一顯身手, 為家人好友炮製令人垂涎的鵝肝美食 在此謹祝閣下佳節快樂,2013 年百尺竿頭 更進一步! We wish you a joyous holiday season and the very best in Johnny Kang Regional Managing Director Asia 江文喜亞洲區董事總經理 05

8 behind the stoves Youth And Mastery 年輕有為的糕點廚師 A Frenchman from the Loire Valley, Stéphane Vieux won the prestigious French dessert championship (CEDUS) when he was 17. He also attended the Avenir Raymond Vaudard competition, where he finished 2nd. At 22, he became the youngest head chef at a Pierre Hermé shop, and led Hermé s brand into Tokyo. He has been in Tokyo for nine years, and now travels throughout Asia to show fellow colleagues how it s done at the top. Stéphane Vieux 來自法國盧瓦爾河谷, 年紀輕輕只得 17 歲時, 就巳贏得 French dessert championship (CEDUS), 並在一個著名的烹飪比賽中贏得了亞軍 在 22 歲之齡巳成為 Pierre Hermé 最年輕的總廚, 並將 Hermé 的品牌引入東京 他目前居於東京已有九年, 現時的主要工作是前往亞洲各地, 與同事分享身為頂級糕點廚師的經驗 F (Foodtalk): Can you tell us a bit about yourself? V (Stéphane Vieux): I started to study pastry when I was 15 at Lycée d Hotellerie et de Tourisme, a college in Val de Loire (a hospitality school) and decided to become a pastry chef when I was 17 when I won CEDUS. When I got it, it reinforced my decision to become a pastry chef. The championship opened doors that would not have otherwise been open to me. After I finished school aged 20, I decided to look for a job in the more difficult pastry kitchens. My teacher told me that if I could stand one year in the kitchens of either Hotel Bristol, Hotel Crillion, Christophe Felder or Guy Savoy, I d be successful. I went to Guy Savoy and stayed for one year. It was hell, and when I left, I went to Pierre Hermé. By chance, one of the head chefs had left, so I was asked to head up the kitchen. At aged 22, I was the youngest chef to head up a Pierre Hermé kitchen. Then I went to Tokyo for him, and left for one year at the InterContinental Bora Bora, because I wanted to learn about hotel functions. When I returned to Tokyo, I was the pastry chef at L Osier, then Shiseido Parlour. I was soon headhunted for a group called Global Dining, to head up pastry for their 68 restaurants. I still work them, but now it s a consultant basis under my own company, called Sweets Secrets. F (Foodtalk): 可否簡單介紹一下自己? V (Stéphane Vieux): 我 15 歲就開始在 Lycée d Hotellerie et de Tourisme 學習製作糕點, 這所學院 [ 一間餐飲學院 ] 位於盧瓦爾河谷 17 歲時, 我贏得了 Trophée Avenir Raymond Vaudard[ 一項享負盛名的年輕廚師獎 ] 第二名, 當時便立志成為一名糕點廚師 成功獲獎堅定了我成為糕點廚師的決心, 而且獎項亦為我帶來了許多機會, 這些機會都是非得獎者所難以觸及的 當我 20 歲完成學業時, 我決定接受更大的挑戰, 到要求較高的糕點廚房找尋工作 我的老師告訴我, 如果我可以在 Hotel Bristol Hotel Crillion Christophe Felder 或 Guy Savoy 之類的廚房熬得過一年, 就必能成功 於是我到了 Guy Savoy 度過一年的光景 那裡的培訓實在嚴格得要命, 後來我有幸加入了 Pierre Hermé 當時剛巧其中一位主廚離職, 於是我受邀接替了他的職務 當年我 22 歲, 是領導 Pierre Hermé 廚房最年輕的廚師 然後我到了東京的 Pierre Hermé, 其中有一年是在波拉波拉洲際酒店 (InterContinental Bora Bora) 度過, 原因是我希望學習一下酒店的實際運作 其後我重返東京, 並先後出任 L Osier 和 Shiseido Parlour 的糕點廚師 不久之後, 我就被獵頭公司挖到 Global Dining 這間餐飲集團, 統領旗下 68 間餐廳的糕點事務 我現時仍然為他們工作, 但是已改為透過自己的公司 Sweets Secrets 向其提供顧問服務 06

9 behind the stoves F: Beurre d Isigny is very famous in France. As a pastry chef, what do you use it for? V: You can use Isigny for all types of sweets, if you use it properly you can use it for pastry, for plated desserts, cakes, ice-cream, chocolate there are so many different ways to use it. F: How does beurre d Isigny help enhance a product? V: The taste is much better. It s much richer. Comparing regular butter with beurre d Isigny is like comparing a Toyota with a Ferrari. Both can be driven and are comfortable, but there is a difference. When you make pastry at high levels, like at a highend hotel, it s about perfection, beurre d Isigny helps you achieve that perfection. F: Beurre d Isigny 牛油在法國享負盛名 身為糕點廚師, 你如何使用這種牛油? V: 你可以用這種牛油製作各種各樣的甜品, 例如油酥糕點 裝盤甜點 蛋糕 雪糕和朱古力 其用法千變萬化, 但必須用得其所 F: Beurre d Isigny 牛油如何提升糕點的味道? V: Beurre d Isigny 牛油的味道要出色得多, 濃烈得多 一般牛油與 Beurre d Isigny 牛油比較, 就好像豐田汽車和法拉利跑車的分別 兩種車坐上去都很舒適, 但仍有一定的差異 當你在高級酒店等處製作高水準的糕點時, 你必須力臻完美, 而 Beurre d Isigny 牛油就能夠助你達致完美 07

10 F: What are the main differences between beurre d Isigny and other butters on the market? V: Beurre d Isigny is under the legislation of Appelation d Origine Protegée (AOP). Milk that is used to produce this butter only comes from a very small area around Isigny. Isigny has very good milk, because the soil is rich, the grass is lush and therefore the milk is superior. The concept of terroir (where the food product s flavour carries characteristics unique to the land of origin) applies. You could buy another butter, but you wouldn t know where the milk is from. AOP also requires that we respect butter s traditional production process, which includes a key step called slow maturation. After skimming the milk, we add lactic starters to cream and let it develop its flavours for 18 hours. Slow maturation is one of the keys to Isigny butter s unique taste....if you rethink your processes and organise yourself differently, you could make small changes and reach perfection. 如果他們能夠重新思考自己的製作流程, 並加以重整, 也許就能跨出那小小的一步並達致完美 F: When a pastry chef is already performing at a very high level, but not yet at perfection, what are they usually missing? V: At that level it s got very little to do with skill, it s motivation. Many pastry chefs want to do things quickly, finish and leave. Sometimes if you rethink your processes and organise yourself differently, you could make small changes and reach perfection. You ve always got to think, Is there a better way to do it? If the answer is yes, then you are missing something. You ve always got assess your own ways; if you don t do that, you become pretentious, then you re finished. F: Many people say that Japan is the leader of pastries in Asia, and even exceed some European products. Do you agree? V: Japan is definitely the top of pastry in Asia, even exceeding Europe. I think it is because of customers, because they re crazy about food. In France, if a macaron has broken a little, shops still sell them, but in Japan they would never put it in the shop. The quality of ingredients is a huge factor, in Japan there are very good ingredients. The most important thing, even before skill, is ingredients. It s also a very challenging environment with a lot of competitions. F: Beurre d Isigny 牛油與市面上的其他牛油主要有何分別? V: Beurre d Isigny 牛油受到原產地命名保護法的監管 製造這種牛油所用的牛奶, 均必須來自法國伊西尼 (Isigny) 附近一片很小的區域 伊西尼土壤肥沃 草原青翠, 因此當地的牛奶非常優質, 卓爾不群 風土氣候條件的確亦影響牛油的品質 : 食物的味道特性總是與其原產地密切相關 你當然可以選購另一種牛油, 但其牛奶來源卻往往無從得知 根據原產地命名保護法的要求, 我們亦需依循傳統的製作過程, 而當中最重要的環節之一就是已沿用幾百年的所謂 緩慢熟成 牛奶首先會被脫脂, 然後保留奶油, 再於奶油中加入乳酸發酵劑, 等待 18 小時讓牛油的味道得以醞釀 其他牛油的製作過程中均無這個步驟 F: 若糕點廚師已經達到相當高的造詣, 但未臻完美, 他們通常欠缺的是些甚麼? V: 在這個水平, 他們欠缺的並非技巧, 而是推動力 許多糕點師傅都希望速速了事 有時候, 如果他們能夠重新思考自己的製作流程, 並加以重整, 也許就能跨出那小小的一步並達致完美 你必須反覆思考 : 我是否可以改良這個做法呢? 如果答案是肯定的, 那就代表仍有所不足 你必須經常檢討自己的做法, 否則你就會變得自命不凡, 不進反退 F: 很多人說日本是亞洲糕點界的引領者, 甚至超越某些歐洲產品 你同意嗎? V: 日本絕對是亞洲糕點界的翹楚, 甚至超越歐洲 我認為這是因為當地的食家要求很高, 對美食非常執迷 在法國, 如果一個馬卡龍 (macaron) 破損了一點, 商店仍會出售, 但日本的商店卻必定會收起不賣 食材的質素也是非常重要的因素, 日本就有相當優質的食材 我甚至認為食材比技巧更為關鍵 另外, 日本糕點界的競爭很大, 充滿挑戰 08

11 special report Belcolade Chocolate Seminar On 12 September 2012, L Atelier du Goût was filled with the stars of the Hong Kong pastry scene, who were invited to attend French master patissier Stéphane Leroux s dessert demonstration using Belcolade s products. Leroux inspired attendees with his extensive experience, meticulous craftsmanship and intimate knowledge of Belcolade products. He awed with demonstrations of his famed creations, Bambou Barre and White Chocolate Mushroom. Aside from an exchange of knowledge and skills, the session ended with an opportunity to admire and taste the Leroux s creations, which were both aesthetically stunning and delicious. 賞味坊在 2012 年 9 月 12 日雲集了過百位本地烘焙業精英, 一同出席由法國甜點大師史廸芬 勒魯 Stéphane Leroux 以各式各樣貝可拉 Belcolade 產品作示範的講座 大師憑豐富經驗和絕倫的技藝, 讓與會者對貝可拉產品有進深認識, 激活他們的烘焙概念 而當大師將其著名作品竹子朱古力棒 Bambou Barre 和白朱古力磨菇 White Chocolate Mushroom 之製作過程展示時, 各人皆嘖嘖稱奇 除了知識和技藝交流外, 有機會欣賞和品嚐大師炮製, 賣相和味道俱佳的甜點, 實在是一件賞心樂事, 也為這個示範會劃上完美的句號 [1] The amicable Stéphane Leroux [2] Staff and attendees of the seminar [3] Stéphane Leroux and the organising team from Puratos [4] Attendees express interest in Puratos s products [5] Leroux s immaculate chocolate showpiece [6&7] Stunning desserts [8] The vast array of Puratos products [1] 俊朗可親的甜點大師史廸芬. 勒魯 [2] 工作人員忙於接待與會者 [3] 示範會的策劃人 : 史廸芬與焙樂道公司團隊 [4] 與會者對焙樂道的產品深表興趣 [5] 大師巧奪天功的朱古力展示品 [6&7] 琳琅滿目的甜點 [8] 品種豐富的焙樂道產品 09

12 sweet talk Bean to Bonbon 朱古力製作趣談 In his book, Chocolate Matter (Matiere Chocolat), master chocolatier Stéphane Leroux shows stunning designs and works that can be described as art made of chocolate. However, this Meilleur Ouvrier de France (M.O.F., the nation s highest accolade for artisans) insists that chocolate is first and foremost about taste. 朱古力大師 Stéphane Leroux 在其著作 朱古力不簡單 (Matiere Chocolat) 中, 展示了可以稱得上是朱古力藝術精品的各種驚人設計和作品 但是, 這位法國工藝首獎 (Meilleur Ouvrier de France, 乃法國最崇高的工藝殊榮 ) 的得獎者卻堅稱, 朱古力的關鍵始終在於味道 How important is the land of origin of the cocoa bean does it reflect in the chocolate? The origin is important in understanding chocolate. The different origins can determine a difference in colour, taste, and sometimes you ll need chocolate from different areas for a specific flavour. The terroir gives chocolate it s own qualities, just like wine. For example, chocolate from central America tends to be a little more acidic, with fruit notes. Do you have a favourite variety of chocolate? I prefer chocolates that have more fruit notes, and a bit more acidity. The fruit and spice notes determine the pairing with the actual fruits and spices. I don t have a favourite chocolate, if it s good, it s good. 可可豆的原產地有多重要? 在朱古力身上能反映出來嗎? 要了解朱古力, 就不得不了解朱古力的原產地, 因為不同的原產地能夠影響其顏色和味道 ; 若你希望調製一種特定風味的朱古力, 有時就需要來自不同地區的朱古力 產地的風土氣候條件會賦予朱古力某些特質, 正如餐酒一樣 例如, 來自中美洲的朱古力酸性往往稍微較高, 並且會有果味 你有沒有一種特別喜歡的朱古力? 我喜歡果味較重 酸性略微較高的朱古力 水果味和香料味決定朱古力實際上應該配合甚麼水果和香料 我沒有特別偏好的朱古力, 只要是好的朱古力我就會喜歡 10

13 sweet talk Technology is quite advanced these days, but if there was one tool you could invent, or one thing you wish you could do with technology of chocolate production, what would it be? The production of chocolate is elaborate, but actually we already have chocolate that is of a very high quality, we have the taste, terroir, fruitiness and so on. I think we re already making chocolate at a very high level. In the market there are already very high quality chocolate. The most delicate thing is tempering and temperature, it can neither be too hot or too cold, so perhaps the only thing is if we could have machine that tempers chocolate and makes it workable in all sorts of physical conditions. I think many would like for a real chocolate like that to be invented, as opposed to imitation chocolate, which is for a completely different market. Which is more important, taste or aesthetics? For me the taste is more important. The aesthetics catch one s eye, but if the taste isn t good, it has failed. Some people are not trained in the cosmetic aspects of chocolate-making, but if it s made properly, it can still taste great. Chocolate is for eating. It s great if you can make something artistic out of chocolate, but in the end, it s about the taste. What is a chocolatier s worst nightmare? Humidity and heat. When problems do happen, however, you need to understand whether it s the heat or humidity, or if it s an issue with your own technique. You need to think about the steps not care just about the result, whether you succeed or fail. Everything has a cause. What is one technique that you use have experimented with over time and find interesting? Mixing cocoa powder with cocoa butter. It s a very interesting technique, because there are lots of things to discover. No moulds are used in the process, so you need to be able to imagine shapes in 3D and work out how to make them. Brussels is known worldwide as the capital of chocolatemaking. Why do you think that is? Brussels is known for its chocolate, because as far as I know, chocolate bonbons (shells with fillings) were invented there a long time ago. Belgium has exported its chocolate all over the world. The Belgians are a mix of the Dutch and the French, they have the know-how and the will to commercialise. Every country has its own history of chocolate Spain and Portugal have an important history in bringing it to Europe, and the Aztecs are central to its cultivation. The history of chocolate doesn t belong to just one country. 今時今日的科技非常先進 如果你可以發明一種工具, 或者你能夠用朱古力生產科技做一件事, 那會是甚麼呢? 朱古力的生產過程非常繁複, 但事實上我們已能製作出非常優質的朱古力 無論在味道 果味 風土氣候條件等方面, 朱古力工藝都已十分成熟 我認為現時製作朱古力的水平已經相當高 市面上已有非常高品質的朱古力 最需要小心處理的是煉硬和溫度控制, 既不能太熱亦不能太冷, 所以如果能夠發明一種煉硬朱古力的機器, 使其在各種物理環境下都能順利煉硬, 就會相當完美 我覺得許多人都會希望這些機器所製造出來的仍然是真的朱古力, 而不是模仿的朱古力, 因為那是屬於一個完全不同的市場 味道和美感, 何者比較重要? 對我而言, 味道較為重要 美感的目的是要吸引目光, 但如果味道不好, 虛有外表只是徒然 有些人沒有受過製作精美朱古力的訓練 ; 但只要朱古力的製作恰如其分, 製品亦可以十分美味 朱古力是用來吃的 能夠造出富有藝術感的朱古力固然是好事, 但歸根究柢, 味道才是最重要 朱古力工藝師最懼怕的是甚麼? 濕度和高溫 每當發生問題, 你都需要了解到底是溫度或濕度, 抑或是你自己的技巧出了問題 無論你是成功還是失敗, 你都需要思考製作過程中的每一步, 而不能單單在乎結果 任何事物都有其箇中的原因 這些年來, 你一定試驗過許多技巧, 你覺得當中最有趣的是那一種? 就是將可可粉和可可脂混在一起 這是一種非常有趣的技巧, 因為你可以從中發現許多東西 過程中不會使用任何模具, 所以你需要具有構想立體形狀的能力, 並且想出製作這些形狀的法門 布魯塞爾被譽為全球朱古力製作之都 你認為箇中的原因是什麼? 布魯塞爾的朱古力之所以舉世聞名, 據我所知, 是因為該地在長久以前就發明了軟夾心朱古力 比利時的朱古力出口到世界各地, 而且比利時人同時兼備荷蘭人和法國人的文化特質, 所以他們既具備專業技能, 亦有企業家的精神 每個國家都有自己的朱古力歷史 : 西班牙和葡萄牙將朱古力帶到歐洲, 意義重大, 而阿茲特克人則是可可豆栽種歷史中的關鍵人物 總括來說, 朱古力的歷史並非專屬於任何單一國家 11

14 talk fresh Huîtres Cadoret THE WORLD OF FRENCH OYSTERS 法國生蠔的世界 Founded in 1880, Huîtres Cadoret is a family business that is now in its fifth generation. The finishing, or affinage, of oysters is their focus, which consists of techniques that are deeply rooted in tradition, passed on through the ages. Huîtres Cadoret 是於 1880 年創立的一間家族企業, 現時已是經營至第五代, 主要業務為生蠔的處理或優化, 而其傳統技術已經歷了多代的傳承 Now led by Jean-Jacques Cadoret, the business now does more than 10 million euros in sales worldwide, with up to 200 employees at peak season. Both rock and flat oysters are produced by Cadoret, providing serious gourmands all over the globe with over 3000 tonnes of oysters every year. Consistent high quality is the reason for which chefs at the world s best restaurants have chosen to put Cadoret oysters on their menus. Brittany is harked the mythical birthplace of oysters, as it is where the famous flat oyster, Bélon, is found. Its inimitable flavour has given it worldwide renown for centuries. It is on the coast of southern Brittany, at the union of fresh and sea wayer, that the Bélon river flows into the Atlantic Ocean and produces this beautiful shellfish. With over 200 hectares of parks in this region, it is little wonder that the Cadoret family has managed to produce oysters of such quality and security of supply over the years. 現時企業在 Jean-Jacques Cadoret 先生導的領導下, 全球的銷售額超過 1000 萬歐元, 在旺季時聘用的員工數目高達 200 人 Cadoret 生產石蠔及扁蠔, 每年為世界各地的美食家提供逾 3000 噸的生蠔 時至今日, 全球頂級餐廳均選用 Cadoret 的生蠔, 皆因其優良的品質始終如一 人們往往認為法國西北部的布列塔尼 (Brittany) 是生蠔的原產地, 因為該地盛產 Bélon 這種扁蠔, 其味道無與倫比, 難怪許多世紀以來均遠近馳名 在布列塔尼的南岸, 貝隆河流入大西洋, 鹹淡水完美地融合, 所以就能生產出這種絕美的貝類海鮮 這個地區擁有超過 200 公頃的生蠔養殖場, 難怪 Cadoret 家族多年來都能夠持續生產如此優質的生蠔 傳統技藝再加上最先進的科技,Cadoret 家族因而得以對養殖容器進行微調, 有效控制生蠔的大小和生長環境 12

15 talk fresh In combination with traditional know-how, state-of-the-art technology is used today for size control, environment conditioning and in fining tanks. Oysters are finished by purification in open tanks, which are unsinkable, have a capacity of 1000 m 3 and process up to 180 tonnes at a time, and built in accordance to European Sanitary Normalisation. An independent laboratory is also employed to test the products constantly, performing over 300 individual laboratory tests per year. Size control machinery and modern conditioning workshops ensure that all products are secure in terms of food safety, as well as quality of product. Each of the work posts is manned by hand to guarantee a perfect product. Each box that leaves the premises is given a number for traceability. 所有生蠔會在露天容器中進行淨化, 這些容器均根據歐洲衛生規格建造, 而且絕不會下沉 容器的容量達 1000 立方米, 可同時處理最多 180 噸生蠔 此外,Cadoret 又誠聘獨立的實驗室, 定期測試其生蠔產品, 每年所進行的個別實驗室測試逾 300 次 Bélon flat oysters refined in the Bélon river 0000 ( g) and (over 250g) These oysters are cultivated in deep waters for three years and go through a first finishing in the open parks of Carantec. They are finished a second time in the famed river of Bélon, spending two months there. Belondine Three-year-old oysters Breeded with ancestral secret know-how from Cadoret s family, they are transferred to the Bélon river at their three-year-old to refine to perfect quality and special flavour. The process gives these oysters a hint of belon-like tannic aftertaste. Fines Cadoret No.1 are 121 to 150g; No.5, also called Boudeuses, are 30-45g. Three-year-old oysters transferred to the Bélon river into specific parks reserved for them so as to achieve the perfect quality. The uniqueness comes from the maturation process ingrained in Cadoret know-how. Gillardeau No.1 are 121 to 150g Over the three years of breeding, the Cadoret teams provide the utmost care to the oysters. Some 60 operations are necessary. The final step, maturation, takes place in fattening ponds. The sparse distribution of oysters per square metre ensures that they are of premium quality. Once gathered, Gillardeau oysters are carefully sorted, cleaned and packaged. 控制生蠔大小的機器和現代化的調節車間, 確保所有生蠔產品均可安全食用 質量上乘 每個工作站都由人手監控, 保證產品完美無瑕 廠房所出產的每盒產品都配有編號, 方便日後追蹤 Bélon 貝隆河所精煉的扁蠔 0000 (160 至 250 克 ) 和 ( 超過 250 克 ) 這些生蠔會在深海養殖 3 年, 並於 Carantec 的露天養殖場接受首輪浸泡 ; 第二輪的浸泡則在貝隆河進行, 歷時兩個月 Belondine 三歲大的生蠔由 Cadoret 家族世代相傳的秘方養殖,Belondine 蠔在成長達 3 年後就會移至貝隆河中被優化, 提昇其品質和口味 這些石蠔有像貝隆蠔一樣的丹寧酸的味道, 非當獨特 Fines Cadoret No.1 重 121 至 150 克 ;No.5 則重 30 至 45 克, 亦稱為 Boudeuses 三歲大的生蠔會轉移到貝隆河的特定專屬養殖場, 以確保達致最高的品質 這種生蠔味道獨特, 全因其熟成過程融合了 Cadoret 的獨有技藝 Gillardeau No.1 重 121 至 150 克在三年的繁殖期中,Cadoret 團隊會悉心照顧這些生蠔, 期間需要進行大約 60 項程序, 最後的熟成程序會在肥育池塘中進行 生蠔稀疏地分佈其中, 每平方米密度相當低, 因此能確保其質素處於最高水平 Gillardeau 生蠔一經收成, 人員即會細心地加以分等 清洗和包裝 13

16 hot talk IS THE ANSWER TO HAUTE CUISINE DOWN IN THE EARTH? In the last decade or so, chefs have been exploring the point at which science and food collide. Led largely by Ferran Adria of elbulli, it was all about changing the perceived forms of food spherification, immediate freezing using liquid nitrogen, making food look like something else some considered it a new level in gastronomy, while others saw it as inedible. 在過去十餘年 許多廚師一直在探尋將科學與美食加以結合的方法 以其潮流引領者 elbulli的ferran Adria為例 他就專注於轉化食物的形態 例如是通過將表面膠化成球的 烹飪技巧 (spherification) 廚師可以使用液化氮進行快速冷凍 這樣食物本身的形態就 會有所變化 有些人覺得這是烹調技術的一大突破 另一些人則不太接受 在現時這個後elBulli時期 似乎只有回歸土地 方可以發現真正的 美食 不少老饕想必都聽說過丹麥哥本哈根的Noma 原因是這 間餐廳獲San Pellegrino選為全球50大最佳餐廳的第一位 其總廚 Rene Redzepi以熱衷於 土食 而聞名 換言話說 他所用的食 材均來自鄰近的地區 他會到附近的森林及海灘找尋食物 然後 帶回其 北歐食品實驗室 Nordic Food Lab 此外 Rene對 於所找到的海藻及花朵等植物 以至鹿肉和螞蟻這些蛋白質豐富 的食物 也會孜孜不倦地探求其可能的烹調方法 但對這些 自 然主義 廚師而言 自行找尋食品並非其唯一的追尋 以Magnus Nilsson為例 他的Fäviken餐廳名噪一時 他會安排眾多美食家深 入挪威的各個角落發掘美食 而其本人亦擁有面積多達8,400公頃 的森林 這片土地佈滿水道 土壤也非常肥沃 為種植農產品帶 來極大潛力 由於採用了傳統的耕作方法 山邊土地的質素也相 當不俗 Nilsson以其所實踐的可持續耕作方式而聞名於世 所以 他經常獲業界的全球高端會議邀請擔任講者 並不時成為媒體的 採訪對象 最近 他更推出了一本與其餐廳同名的著作 In this post-elbulli era, it appears that to go higher into haute cuisine, one must go down to earth, literally. Many will already know about restaurant Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark, the world s number one restaurant according to The San Pellegrino World s 50 Best Restaurants Awards. Head chef Rene Redzepi is known for his hyper-locavorism, that is, eating and cooking with ingredients that are found in his immediate geographical area. He goes into nearby forests and beaches and brings them back to his lab, the Nordic Food Lab, and investigates edible uses for foraged vegetation, such as weeds and flowers, as well as proteins, from venison to ants. But found food is not the only way for these naturalist chefs. Magnus Nilsson, the chef who put Fäviken restaurant on the map and has had gourmands heading into the far reaches of Norway, maintains a forest estate of 8400 hectares. The land, replete with waterways and rich soil, provides opportunities for farming. By preserving traditional farming techniques, the farms on this mountainside remain fertile. This sustainable approach to farming is something that Nilsson has become known for, and has seen him presenting in high-end industry conferences around the world, as well as numerous press appearances. Recently, he also wrote a book recently, named after the restaurant. 將農場設於餐廳附近 或更準確地說 將餐廳設於農場附近 就 好像在葡萄園中的餐廳一樣 用料就會絕對新鮮 不像其他餐廳 般需要千里迢迢將食材運送回來 而這種做法在飲食界也日益常 見 Blue Hill at Stone Barns就是一個好例子 這間位於美國紐約 州藍山農場的餐廳 距離曼克頓不足40公里 其總廚Dan Barber 14

17 hot talk Farms attached to restaurants, or perhaps restaurants attached to farms, much like restaurants in vineyards, where ingredients aren t shipped from the other side of the world, but are carted from the other side of the estate, are becoming increasingly important on the culinary scene. Take Blue Hill at Stone Barns, for example, a restaurant on Blue Hill Farm, in New York State, under 40km from Manhattan. The chef and co-owner of the restaurant Dan Barber, received the James Beard awards for Best Chef: New York City in 2006 and Outstanding Chef in In 2009, he was also named one of the world s most influential people in Time Magazine s annual Time 100. All the ingredients served at the restaurant are sourced from the farm and its accompanying research and education centre, Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, or from surrounding farms in the area. There are no menus at the restaurant. Instead, guests are presented with a list of over a hundred ingredients, updated daily, which contains the best offerings from the field and market. Dan Barber at Blue Hill at Stone Barns 為餐廳的擁有者之一, 在 2006 年他榮獲紐約市最佳廚師 James Beard 獎, 以及 2009 年的傑出廚師獎 同年, 美國 時代 週刊的年度 時代 100 全球最具影響力人物中, 他也榜上有名 在他的餐廳裡, 所有的食材都是取自本身的農場以及 Stone Barns 食物和農業中心 (Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture) 這個附設的研究和教育設施 當然, 其中某些材料也會來自區內的其他農場 這間餐廳並無餐牌供應 食客改為收到一份列有過百種食材的清單, 這份清單會每天更換, 而此等食材均是農場以至市場上最新鮮的選擇 Magnus Nilsson Barber, Nilsson and Redzepi are a new generation of chefs leading people to the ground, quite literally. As much as they talk about sous vide and knife skills, they talk about soil health and crop rotation. In collaboration with Dr. Stephen Jones at Washington State University, Barber has even been developing a type of wheat, named Aragon X LP3, based on an ancient genetic strain, so that wheat (and therefore flour) with real flavour will be brought to our bakeries and tables once again. The wheat that is grown by Barber is milled on his farm, and the flour goes into the breads and other foods made for the restaurant. These chefs have taken hard, laboratory-like science off the superficial platform that is diner s plates, and back into the fundamentals of food agriculture and cultivation that leads to great flavour. The way up the culinary ladder is definitely down in soil structure. Barber Nilsson 及 Redzepi 都是新一代的名廚, 他們帶領著整個餐飲界回歸土地 當然他們也會討論刀功或真空低温烹調, 但可能更多的是談及土壤健康和輪流栽種 以 Barber 為例, 他就與美國華盛頓州立大學的 Stephen Jones 博士合作, 發展出一種稱為 Aragon X LP3 的新品種小麥, 這種小麥源自一種古老的基因品種, 所以生產出來的麵粉以至製成的麵包和烘焙產品都特別可口 Barber 所用的小麥都是在自己的農場上磨製而成的, 而有關的麵粉將會用來焗製麵包和其他食品, 供其餐廳的食客享用 這些廚師的可貴之處是他們超越了所謂的實驗室烹調科學, 回歸到食物的基本 眾所週知, 優良的耕作方法和農作物自然會產生 Bonnie Gokson 美味的食物 要在烹調技藝中更上層樓, 有時絕對要向下 往土地中探求 15

18 slice of the past WHAT IS IN A NAME? 名 不副實的美食? Jerusalem artichokes are neither from Israel or an artichoke; yuxiang (fragrance of fish) doesn t contain fish; and neko manma (cat rice) certainly does not contain cats. What s with the culinary misnomers? 耶路撒冷洋薊這種蔬菜既不是洋薊, 也跟耶路撒冷沒有關係 ; 至於魚香, 當中並無魚的成份 ; 而貓飯當然也沒有貓 但為甚麼會出現這些名不副實的食物呢? Linguistics: JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE 耶路撒冷洋薊的語言學分析 Culinary professionals and food enthusiasts certainly know that despite its name, the Jerusalem artichoke has no relation to the city in Israel, and it is not a type of artichoke, although some less tuned in on vegetables are often confused when a tuber is presented to them rather than a bulb. What many may not know, however, is that both the Jerusalem artichoke and the artichoke are members of the daisy family. It is said that Italians called them girasola, meaning sunflower, as the tuber s blooms looked similar. Some say that because the Jerusalem artichoke was easy to grow, even in less arable conditions, it became known as peasant food, and that it was also a staple food for North American pilgrims, to feed a new Jerusalem. Another proposed explanation is that the vegetable was first cultivated in Ter-Heusen, in the Netherlands, and the name of the area became corrupted as Jerusalem. It was called an artichoke as Samuel de Champlain, the French explorer, is said to have sent samples to France with the description that it tasted like artichokes. 烹飪專業人士和美食愛好者當然知道耶路撒冷洋薊 (Jerusalem artichoke) 與以色列的同名城市完全沒有關係, 也不是洋薊的一種 但有些對蔬菜不太熟悉的人看到其塊莖而非球莖時往往會有所混淆 但許多人可能不知道, 耶路撒冷洋薊與洋薊是都是薊菊科的一員 據說意大利人稱之為 girasola, 意指向日葵, 原因是其塊莖所開出的花與向日葵十分相似 有人認為耶路撒冷洋薊容易生長, 即使在不太適合耕作的田地亦能茁壯成長, 所以稱為農家菜 此外, 由舊世界移民到北美新大陸的人士, 亦以此作為主食, 傳說可以養活整個 新的耶路撒冷 另一個可能的解釋是這種蔬菜最初在荷蘭的泰 - 赫斯森 (Ter-Heusen) 種植, 後來被誤傳為耶路撒冷 (Jerusalem) 至於它為何稱為洋薊, 據說是因為法國探險家 Samuel de Champlain 將這種蔬菜的樣本寄至法國, 並附上說明稱它的味道像洋薊 16

19 slice of the past Adaptable Combination: YUXIANG 魚香 : 創意的發明 In Chinese, yuxiang means the fragrance of fish. This Sichuan combination of garlic, ginger, spring onion and chilli sometimes features minced pork, but is devoid of fish. It is said that there was once a wealthy trading family in Sichuan that were gourmets who used rather sophisticated cooking techniques at home. One night, they were cooking fish with their own special recipe, which uses finely chopped garlic, ginger, spring onion and chilli. These ingredients all have to be cooked slowly in a wok to release their flavours, before the fish can be added and is said to be able to bring out the true flavours of the fish. The next day, the man of the house was out on a business trip and wasn t expected home for dinner. However, he made it home early, and asked his wife to cook for him. His wife didn t have much on hand. Seeing that there were leftover condiments from the previous night s fish dish, she combined these with eggplant, the only main ingredient she could find in her kitchen. As she sent the dish out, she feared that her husband, being a serious gourmet, would disapprove and catch her out immediately for using leftovers. To her surprise, he polished the plate clean and praised her for creating such a delicious dish. While delighted by his praise, his wife confessed that it was in fact the same sauce that they use to cook fish. Since then, regardless of what the main ingredient is, anything served with this sauce has been called yuxiang. 魚香 是指魚散發的香氣 這種四川烹飪手法結合薑 蔥 大蒜 辣椒, 有時甚至會加入剁碎的豬肉, 但就一定不會有魚 據稱四川有一富裕的商賈之家, 非常注重美食, 所以烹飪技藝極其繁複 有一晚, 他們以獨有的食譜烹調鮮魚, 一般所採用的配料包括切碎的大蒜 生薑 蔥和辣椒 這些配料會放進鑊裡慢煮, 然後再放魚下鑊, 據稱這樣才能釋放魚的真正鮮味 第二天, 男主人出差, 本來預計不能回家吃晚飯 但碰巧他提早歸家, 並想夫人煮飯給他吃 可惜的是, 家裡的食物不多, 只有前一天晚上吃剩的魚, 她將廚房中僅剩的食材茄子加進去炒好, 戰戰兢兢地上菜, 但生怕丈夫責備, 因為他是一個真正的老饕 : 如果知道她用昨夜的剩菜, 很有可能會大發脾氣 令她吃驚的是, 丈夫把她燒的菜吃個清光, 並稱讚她的廚藝甚佳 而這時妻子也和盤托出, 指所用的醬料與他們昨天用來燒魚的無異, 從此以後, 所有以此醬料所煮的菜餚都稱為 魚香 Original Purpose: NEKO MANMA 貓飯 : 簡單但美味 Neko manma is a Japanese dish that consists of a bowl of rice with random toppings (often leftovers). The name translates literally to cat rice. It is said that neko manma was originally intended as cat food and made from leftovers. Even if people didn t own a cat, many feed strays or cats that live in their neighbourhood. Ironically, most neko manma combinations call for oils and condiments that aren t suitable for cats diets, ranging from bonito flakes and soy sauce to butter, to miso soup or a raw egg. Manma is baby talk for rice and some say it s called so because it reminds them of the food they had as children, while others say it s because it was served to cute kittens. 貓飯 (neko manma) 這道日本料理是指在一碗飯上隨便放些配料 ( 一般是吃剩的餸菜 ) 據說 貓飯 原本的確是用作貓糧, 而且是由吃剩的餸菜所組成的 即使是不養貓的人, 許多時也會餵一些在家附近遊蕩的流浪貓 諷刺的是, 許多貓飯含有油份和其他配料, 例如是柴魚片 豉油 牛油 味噌湯, 甚至是生雞蛋, 並不適合貓兒進食 manma 為年幼兒童對飯的稱呼, 有說法指出貓飯之所以稱為 neko manma, 是因為這個名稱能夠喚起兒時的記憶, 而另一種說法則指是由於這種飯是用來餵可愛的小貓而得名 17

20 talk fresh Nice to Meat You 盛意推薦優質牛肉的不二之選 The unrivalled taste of free-range premium Riverlands Black Angus from New Zealand 來自新西蘭自由放養 味道無以倫比的 Riverlands 優質安格斯黑牛肉 New Zealand is world renowned for its clean, green environment, verdant pastures and a near-perfect climate, all qualities that have helped earned its reputation for producing some of the world s finest beef. It is from the traditional farming regions of the North Island s Taranaki, Manawatu and the East Coast that you will find the Riverlands Black Angus cattle grazing free-range, on fertile, lush pastures. Overlooked by Mt Taranaki, a mountain sacred to the local Maori people of New Zealand, the area enjoys a temperate climate, the pastures are green and the water is supplied from fresh flowing streams. Raised in such a pristine environment, it isn t hard to imagine why the cattle are safe, healthy and uniquely delicious. Grown with the best of Mother Nature s supplies, Riverlands Black Angus needs no extras - it is free of hormone growth promotants and the cattle are free to roam. 新西蘭素來以綠色清潔的環境而在全球享負盛名, 一望無際的青蔥草原與幾近完美的氣候, 造就新西蘭成為全球生產最優質牛肉國家 不論是新西蘭北島塔拉納基 (Taranaki) 和瑪納瓦圖 (Manawatu), 以至東岸的傳統農業區, 你都會發現 Riverlands 最優質安格斯黑牛的蹤跡, 該處土地肥沃, 綠草如茵, 黑牛可以自由盡啖鮮嫩多汁的牧草 塔拉納基山是新西蘭原住民毛利族人的神山 當地不僅擁有綠油油的草地, 更有來自淙淙溪流的清澈水源, 而且四季如春, 氣候溫和 知道牛隻在如此純淨自然的環境中飼養, 就不難明白所生產的牛肉為何既安全健康, 同時擁有獨一無二的滋味 Riverlands 安格斯黑牛既已盡得大自然的精華所滋養, 因此亦無須任何人工添加 絕無餵食激素生長促進劑, 而且牛隻可以毫無拘束地自由走動 18

21 talk fresh Aside from the topography and climate, the cattle are also well-tended to by some of the best in the business. New Zealand farmers who are passionate about beef raise the cattle to a maximum of 30 months. They are hand selected, so only the best go on to be branded as Riverlands Black Angus. En route to market, the beef is then aged in a controlled environment for best results. This ensures that the diner enjoys a naturally marbled, finely textured, flavoursome and nutritious dish of beef. There is a wide spread appreciation that cattle fed on grass provides the most delicious, full flavour of beef. Riverlands Black Angus grass-fed beef is also rich in important nutrients and minerals, including protein, iron, zinc and Vitamin B essential for optimum health, all the while being lean, as well as low in cholesterol and trans fats. Riverlands Black Angus is tender-rated for tenderness and consistency of product and is Halal Certified and USDA/EU approved to maximize peace of mind and enjoyment for all. Produced by the ANZCO Foods group, the Riverlands brand is synonymous with quality. Established and progressive, ANZCO foods is a dynamic, multinational group of companies, whose core purpose is to procure, process and market New Zealand beef and lamb products to the world. With the perfect natural environment, from the vast lands to impeccably clean supply of the essential elements of water, air and grass, the Riverlands Black Angus brand is a guarantee of consistent, year-round, high-quality supply. Supported by ANZCO Foods efficient and experienced system a comprehensive range of cuts at the highest quality are assured. 除了 天時地利 以外,Riverlands 安格斯黑牛亦盡享 人和 之優勢 新西蘭農民熱衷於牧養牛隻, 牛隻最多會飼養達 30 個月, 再由專業人員親手挑選, 只有最上乘的牛隻才能獲賦予 Riverlands 安格斯黑牛肉 品牌的稱號 在運往市場的途中, 牛肉會在監控的環境中熟成, 確保獲得最佳效果 正因如此, 食家在餐桌上所享用的絕對是擁有天然雪花 紋理精細 滋味無窮 營養豐富的精品牛肉 草飼的牛隻, 通常廣為推崇為最富含牛肉鮮味 Riverlands 的安格斯黑牛肉匯聚多種對保持身體健康非常重要的營養素及礦物質, 包括蛋白質 鐵質 鋅及維他命 B, 同時肉質精瘦, 膽固醇和反式脂肪含量均處於較低水平 Riverlands 安格斯黑牛肉入口軟滑, 而且品質一致, 全因其肥瘦適中, 並通過雙能 X 光技術分析, 同時符合清真食品的認證以及美國農業部 / 歐盟的檢測, 食家絕對可以放心享用 Riverlands 品牌由 ANZCO 食品集團生產, 是優質產品的象徵 ANZCO 食品是一家歷史悠久而充滿朝氣的跨國集團, 在專注於傳統之餘, 亦不忘推陳出新, 其主要業務為新西蘭牛肉及羊肉產品的採購 處理及市場推廣至世界各地 遼闊的土地, 再加上潔淨的食水 清新的空氣和青草供應源源不絕, 在這個近乎完美的天然環境中,Riverlands 的安格斯黑牛肉品牌保證可一年四季持續穩定供應優質的產品, 並由 ANZCO 食品集團高效率 技術精湛而經驗豐富的團隊提供全面支援, 確保食家可以享受不同部位最頂尖質素的牛肉 安得利新加坡為 Riverlands 安格斯黑牛肉在新加坡的獨家分銷商, 有關詳情請聯絡安得利新加坡的銷售代表 Angliss Singapore is the sole distributor of Riverlands Black Angus beef in Singapore. Contact your Angliss Singapore sales representative for more details. 19

22 chef s talk IT'S ALL ABOUT TEAM SPIRIT 團隊精神至上 Nancy Tian, who heads up pastry at The Westin Financial Street Beijing, might not have dreamt of becoming a pastry chef, but her passion for food and subsequent hard work have led her to top hotels all around China, from the warm sunny coasts of Sanya to the capital. 田萍現為北京金融街威斯汀大酒店的糕點總廚 回望過去, 她最初也許並未夢想過成為一名糕點廚師, 但她對食物充滿熱情, 而且努力不懈, 曾於中國各地的多間頂級酒店任居要職, 當中包括海南三亞以及首都北京 How did you become a chef? I like to eat. When I graduated high school and had to decide what to study further, I decided to choose something that is related to food and eating, so I applied for a place at a culinary school. Was it always your dream to become a chef, or more of a coincidence? I would say it was a coincidence. I never dreamt that I would be become a chef, but I just love food, and chose to go to a hospitality school. Which is more important, tradition or innovation? I think both are important. In my work, western pastries, traditional methods are your foundation. Only when you ve established a firm foundation on those classic skills, can you begin to innovate. In the end, you need a combination of the two. 你是如何成為一名廚師的? 我很愛吃 高中畢業後我想繼續深造, 所以就決定選擇一些與食物和吃有關的學科, 於是到烹飪學校申請入學 你是自小就夢想成為廚師, 抑或只是因緣際會? 我會說是因緣際會 我從未想過會成為一名廚師, 我只是喜歡食物而已, 所以就選擇就讀餐飲學校 傳統和創新, 何者較為重要? 我認為兩者都很重要 在我從事的西式糕點製作中, 傳統的方法是基礎所在 只有當你在基本技巧方面打好堅實的基礎, 你才能加以創新 注入新意念 但是歸根究柢, 兩者缺一不可 你最喜歡自己工作的那個方面? 我最大的滿足感, 來自於與自己的團隊合作, 不斷創造賞心悅目 美味可口的甜品和糕點 20

23 chef s talk 你最不喜歡自己工作的又是甚麼? 我覺得今時今日的廚師需要處理的文件太多 每日的文書工作都會佔去許多時間, 使我少了精力投入到創造構思的工作, 但這似乎是現今無可逆轉的狀況 我覺得廚師應該花更多時間在廚房裡研創新品, 而不是埋首電腦做一大堆文書工作 在你的事業發展歷程中, 有甚麼最值得分享的經歷? 我在海南三亞工作多年, 並曾參與兩間酒店的開幕工作 當時我帶領的團隊成員, 現時均在海南多間頂級酒店擔任領導或管理階層 Treats - Deli and Cake Shop at The Westin Financial Street Beijing 迄今為止, 帶給你最大樂趣的是甚麼? 籌備大型宴會 設計餐單最令我感到雀躍 你可以從中充分體會到團隊工作的威力 為大型宴會製作菜餚是很好的體驗, 因為你需要準備各種各樣的食物, 從開宴的麵包 不同菜式之間振奮味蕾的食品選擇 甜品以至法式小點, 都要做到一絲不苟, 你亦需要同時向大量賓客供應食物, 絕不簡單 What do you like most about your job? What gives me the most satisfaction is working together with my team, and continuously create sweets and pastries that are delicious and aesthetically pleasing. 對於年輕廚師, 你有甚麼忠告? 你必須熱愛自己的工作 工作表現的好壞, 除了取決於技巧的高低外, 態度亦非常重要 如果你熱愛自己的工作, 自然就會對每個細節加倍專注 What do you dislike most about your job? I think being a chef nowadays involves too much paperwork. Paperwork takes up so much time each day and leaves you with little energy to put into creative work and thinking up new innovations. It seems like that s just how it is nowadays. I feel that chefs should be spending more time in creating things in the kitchen not buried in paperwork behind one s computer. What have been some highlights in your career thus far? I worked for over years in Sanya, and was on the opening team of two hotels. The teams I led at that time are now, in turn, leading and working in some of the best hotels all around Hainan. What has been the most fun thus far? The experience of creating large banquets and set meals are a lot of fun. You get to fully experience the power of working as a team. Working on big banquet meals are great because you serve up all sorts of products, from the bread they start the meal with, to a palate cleanser in between, then dessert, and petits fours, and you have to serve large amounts all at once. Any advice for young chefs? You need to be passionate about your work. The difference between doing a good or bad job, given that you have the skills, is simply about your attitude towards work. If you like it, you ll think about things in more detail. 21

24 special report Best of the Best Pastry Chefs indulge in Anchor Cheese 糕點廚師以安佳芝士盡顯 芝味濃情 Organized by Fonterra Foodservices, the 5th Fonterra Foodservices Pastry Challenge 2012 Hong Kong (Professional Chef Category) was successfully held at HITDC on 25 September Professional pastry chefs from 8 organisations in Hong Kong competed for 5 fascinating awards and prizes with their innovative recipes and outstanding baking skills. The Organizer was honored to invite a panel of judges comprising of professional chefs and baking experts to pick the best cake and plate dessert among the contestants, including Mr Jean-Francois Arnaud, M.O.F (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) Patissier. 由恒天然餐飲服務部所舉辦的 2012 年第 5 屆香港恒天然烘焙大賽 ( 專業廚師組 ) 已於 2012 年 9 月 25 日假薄扶林旅遊服務業培訓發展中心圓滿舉行 專業廚師組的參賽廚師來自本港 8 間機構, 他們以其超卓的烘焙技藝及創新食譜, 爭奪 5 個獎項及豐富獎品 為隆重其事, 大會更邀得城中專業名廚及餐飲業專家包括法國 M.O.F 烘焙師 Jean-Francois Arnaud 先生擔任評判, 以專業角度選出優勝作品 Contestants of HK Challenge Professional Category with judges and representatives from Fonterra Foodservices and Angliss. 香港區專業廚師組參賽者與評審團 恒天然餐飲及安得利代表合照 The Championship for the Professional Chef Category went to Ms Lau Wai Ming and Ms Chan Wing Ching from the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong. Aside from the fantastic cash prize, Lau and Chan will also receive a complimentary overseas pastry training course given by a Master Pastry Chef. All champions of Fonterra Foodservices Pastry Challenge from other Asian regions will gather and share their experience. The Angliss Media Award went to Mr Adrien Duraffourd and Mr Tam Ka Long Holly from the Hong Kong Jockey Club. In addition, Fonterra Foodservices Pastry Challenge 2012 Hong Kong (Junior Chef Category) was successfully held on 4 September 2012 at the Chinese University of Hong Kong. Mr Lung Tze Chung and Mr Franco Chan Lap Lun from the Peninsula Hong Kong knocked the remaining seven contestants out and won the Gold Award. 專業廚師組的冠軍最後由香港四季酒店的劉慧明 (Lau Wai Ming) 及陳詠菁 (Chan Wing Ching) 奪得 兩人除了獲得現金獎外, 還可前往外地修讀烘焙課程, 向大師學藝 此外, 其他亞洲地區的恒天然烘焙大賽優勝者將會聚首一堂, 分享參賽的心得 至於香港賽馬會的杜力豐 (Adrien Duraffourd) 和譚嘉龍 (Tam Ka Long Holly) 則贏得安得利傳媒大獎 另一方面,2012 年第 5 屆香港恒天然烘焙大賽 ( 新晉廚師組 ) 亦已在 2012 年 9 月 4 日假香港中文大學成功舉行 香港半島酒店的龍子聰 (Lung Tze Chung) 和陳立崙 (Franco Chan Lap Lun) 擊敗其他 7 位參賽者勇奪金獎 22

25 special report Over the past four years, Fonterra Foodservices Pastry Challenge had received overwhelming response from the bakery professionals in Macau. Due to the increasing number of participants from Macau, the first Fonterra Foodservices Pastry Challenge was held in the Institute for Tourism Studies (IFT) on 10 October The event kicked-off with 2 ½-hour cake preparations by 10 teams of pastry chefs, followed by dinner, cake cutting officiated by the contestants and award presentations. Mr Ho Chan Pang and Ms Lee Pei Si from Sands Macao won the Gold Award and they will be joining winners from other Asian Fonterra Foodservice Pastry Challenges for the overseas pastry-training course. The Angliss Media Award was presented to Jeffrey Lao of Institute for Tourism Studies (IFT). The theme for this year is Cheese Indulgence. With the use of Anchor Cream Cheese, Anchor Whipping Cream and Anchor Butter for their creations, professional pastry chefs turned their passion for cheese into delightful cakes and shared their joy with everyone. The passion, dedication and patience from these contestants were amazing. Not only were these layered cakes, but also they were full of flavour combinations, textures and colours. They really went beyond your basic cheesecake, that s for sure, said Ms Simone Nabbs, Executive Chef of the Food & Beverage Education Team, School of Hotel and Tourism Management, The Chinese University of Hong Kong, one of the judges for the Junior Chef Category. For all participants and judges, it was a magical culinary journey of which everyone felt proud to have been part. Winners of Macau Challenge (From Left) Silver award: Dannevien Casimir & Ng Weng Mao (Grand Hyatt Macau); Gold award: Lee Pei Si & Ho Chan Pang (Sands Macao); Bronze award: Midori Ota & Amabelle Zarah Gopez (Wynn Macau) with emcee Crystal 澳門區的三甲得主合照 ( 左起 ) 銀獎 : Dannevien Casimir 吳永謀 ( 澳門君悅酒店 ) ; 金獎 : 李佩熹 何振鵬 ( 澳門金沙酒店 ); 銅獎 :Midori Ota, Amabelle Zarah Gopez ( 澳門永利酒店 ) 與司儀 Crystal 在過去四年, 來自澳門的糕點師傅十分踴躍參與恒天然烘焙大賽 由於反應熱烈, 所以專為當地而設的首屆恒天然烘焙大賽於 2012 年 10 月 10 日假座澳門旅遊學院舉行 賽事首先由 10 隊糕點廚師用兩個半小時準備蛋糕, 然後是晚宴時間, 再接著則由參賽者進行切蛋糕儀式, 最後則是頒獎典禮 來自澳門金沙酒店的何振鵬和李佩熹贏得了金獎, 他們將會與亞洲地區其他恒天然烘焙大賽的勝出者一起前往外地修讀烘焙課程 至於安得利傳媒大獎的得獎者, 則是澳門旅遊學院的劉擇祥 Winners of HK Challenge Junior Category (From Left) Silver award: Chan Kam Sum & Ng Ki Ki (Intercontinental Grand Standford HK); Gold award: Lung Tze Chung & Chan Lap Lun, Franco (The Peninsula Hong Kong); Bronze award: Ma Tze Fung & Yeung Hoi Shing (Disney Hollywood Hotel) 香港區新晉廚師組三甲得主合照 ( 左起 ) 銀獎 : 陳淦森 吳琦琦 ( 香港海景嘉福酒店 ); 金獎 : 龍子聰 陳立崙 ( 香港半島酒店 ); 銅獎 : 馬梓鋒 楊海城 ( 迪士尼好萊塢酒店 ) 本年度的主題是 芝味濃情, 參賽的專業糕點廚師需要使用安佳忌廉芝士 安佳淡忌廉和安佳牛油進行創作, 將其對芝士的熱情幻化成蛋糕, 並與大家一起分享 新晉廚師組的評判之一, 中文大學酒店及旅遊管理學院廚藝及餐飲製作行政總廚 Simone Nabbs 指出 : 這些參賽者的熱情 專注和耐心令人讚嘆 這些多層蛋糕不單外形別緻, 而且味道 質感和顏色亦令人印象深刻 它們都是 非一般 的芝士蛋糕 總括而言, 對所有評判和參賽者來說, 這次比賽的確是一次難忘的奇妙經歷 23

26 talk of the town Starred Arrival Kong branch instead, especially as chef Masahiro Yoshitake is now stationed in Hong Kong. Sushi Yoshitake and China Master Bartender Competition. 1-3 Apr 2013 Shanghai New International 至於位於中國南方的壽司愛好者, 現在則可以前往其位於香港的分店 更令人興奮的是, 香港分店現時已由名廚吉武正博親自主理 Famed London restaurateur Alan Yau s first Hong Kong outpost, Bettys Kitschen has been renamed to St Betty to The Mercer 29 Jervois Street Sheung Wan, HK reservations@sushiyoshitake.com VINISUD Asia Expo Centre (SNIEC) 2345 Longyang Road Pudong New Area Shanghai, China Sushi Yoshitake 香港上環蘇杭街 29 號尚圜酒店 reservations@sushiyoshitake. com reflect the change of chef and complete overhaul of the menu to refined modern European. Behind the stoves full-time now is chef Shane Osborn, who was head chef at London s 2-Michelin -starred Pied a Terre. St Betty Shop 2075, IFC Mall 1 Harbour View Street Central, HK Hello, Sailor! VINISUD showcases wines from the Mediterranean, which accounts for more than 50% of world output. It claims to bring together the majority of Mediterranean wine producers and professional buyers from every continent. Last year in Montpellier, it brought together over 巨星駕臨倫敦飲食界的明星丘德威 (Alan Yau) 於香港的首間餐廳 Bettys Kitschen 已更名為 St Betty, 其反映廚師陣容的改變以及煥然一新的餐牌 為這些新派歐洲美食操刀的是 Shane Osborn, 他過往是倫敦米芝蓮二星級餐廳 Pied a Terre 的總廚, 現時全職在香港為食家炮製美食 St Betty 香港中環港景街 1 號國際金融中心商場 2075 號店 VINISUD 地中海國際葡萄酒及烈酒亞洲展 VINISUD 將於 2013 年 2 月 26 至 28 日在上海新國際博覽中心展出來自地中海的各類酒品, 這些酒品佔全球一半以上的產量 這次的展覽雲集地中海地區的大部份葡萄酒生產商以至各大洲的專業買手 去年在法國南部蒙彼利埃舉行 (Montpellier) 的展覽會, 一共有超過 30,000 名訪客觀展, 以及 1,664 位參展商參展 VINISUD 亞洲展預計將吸引 300 名參展商以及 4,500 位訪客 30,000 visitors and 1,664 exhibitors. VINISUD Asia is expected to draw in 300 船長, 你好! HotelEx 上海國際酒店用品博覽會 exhibitors and 4,500 visitors. 又有一間英國餐廳登陸香 港!Gordon Ramsay 的得意門 Feb 2013 生 Jason Atherton 夥拍企業家 Another British arrival in Hong Shanghai New International Yenn Wong 最近在香港灣仔 Kong, Gordon Ramsay protégée Expo Centre (SNIEC) 開設了名為 22 Ships 的小食酒 Jason Atherton has opened tapas bar 22 Ships in collaboration with entrepreneur Yenn Wong, who founded the now-sold JIA boutique hotel. 22 Ships 22 Ship Street Wan Chai, HK Ginza in Hong Kong Many a sushi connoisseur flocks to Sushi Yoshitake in Ginza, Tokyo, but for those in the South China Sea, they can now head to the restaurant s Hong 2345 Longyang Road Pudong New Area Shanghai, China HotelEx Shanghai As one of the region s largest hospitality exhibitions, HotelEx is a one-stop industry show that integrates all kinds of hotel supplies from food including from fine foods to coffee, wine, uniforms, tableware, refrigeration, hotel software and more. It will also host major competitions such as the 11th China Barista Champion Final 吧 至於 Yenn Wong 所創辦 JIA 精品酒店, 現時已經易手 22 Ships 香港灣仔船街 22 號 銀座名店進駐香港在日本東京銀座的 Sushi Yoshitake, 經常都會擠滿壽司迷 HotelEx 將於 2013 年 4 月 1 至 3 日在上海新國際博覽中心舉行一個區內最大型的酒店用品博覽會 這個一站式的業界展覽集結了各式各樣的酒店用品, 包括 : 美食佳餚 咖啡 酒品 從業員制服 餐具 冷藏設備, 以至酒店用軟件等等, 應有盡有 此外, 同場更會舉行第 11 屆世界咖啡師大賽中國區總決賽以及中國國際調酒大師杯 24

27 talk of the globe Plate to Nose Eating had around a decade s 色香味美 馬德里國際美食高峰會 experience at the famed avant garde restaurant, brings Catalan classics to Singapore. Catalunya The Fullerton Pavilion 82 Collyer Quay Anne-Sophie Pic, who was Singapore named best female chef in the world in 2012 by The World s 50 Best Restaurants Award, has finally opened her long-anticipated Paris Restaurant, La Dame de Pic, serving menus based on fragrance profiles, developed with perfumer Philippe Bousseton. Madrid Fusión Top chefs from Spain and the rest of the globe gather for a three-day event on the future of food, with demos, exhibitions, contests, discussion forums and more. With Spanish cuisine on 在 2012 年,Anne-Sophie Pic 獲 全球 50 大最佳餐廳大獎 選為全球最佳女廚師 其與香水師 Philippe Bousseton 合作打造 萬眾期待的巴黎餐廳近日終於開幕了, 這家以香水作為餐牌主題 名為 La Dame de Pic 來自西班牙以至全球各地的頂級廚師都會在 2013 年 1 月 日這個為期三天的高峰會中, 聚首一堂, 透過示範 展覽 比賽 論壇等探討美食的未來趨勢 隨著西班牙美食在全球日益受到歡迎, 議程表上將必定是星光熠熠, 而現時 La Dame de Pic the rise, the names on the 的餐廳, 必定是色香味美 香 飲食界的眾多巨星也會光臨 20 Rue du Louvre schedule are sure to read like 氣撲鼻 出席 Paris, France a who s-who of today s culinary landscape. 意大利旋風無可抵抗 Sirha 舉辦的博古斯展覽會 Jan 2013 Eataly 這間意大利食品市場在 Italian Winds a Blowing Av. de la Capital de España 紐約的店子取得空前成功後, Madrid, s/n 最近宣佈將於 2013 年 9 月在美 Madrid 28015, Spain 國芝加哥再開新店 其團隊成 員包括明星廚師 Mario Batali 與其紐約的店子一樣,Eataly Chicago 將會包括零售店以及一 Bocuse d Or at Sirha 系列餐飲食肆, 例如是小咖啡 This prestigious global hotel 店及餐廳 而一間燒烤餐廳, and food service trade show 則正在籌備當中 備受推崇的博古斯世界烹飪 After opening in New York will be the site of the prestigious 大賽將於 2013 年 1 月 29 至 30 to great success, the team behind the Italian food market Eataly, which includes celebrity chef Mario Batali, has announced that it will open in Chicago in September Like its New York counterpart, Eataly Chicago will consist of retail, as well as a series of food and beverage outlets, from coffee stands to restaurants at present a grill restaurant is planned. Bocuse d Or contests, created by the master of French cuisine, Paul Bocuse. Here, chefs from all over the world will cook on site, in front of an audience, and present two courses made with official competition ingredients with just over 5 hours of total time Jan 2013 (Sirha January 2013) Eurexpo Lyon 獅城的西班牙美饌曾於 El Bulli 服務的 Alain Devahive Tolosa 最近成為了 Catalunya 這間餐廳的掌舵人 這間令人引頸以待的西班牙餐 日, 假同樣備受推崇的國際性酒店及食品服務行業展覽會的場地舉行 這項享譽國際的比賽是由法國烹調大師保羅. 博古斯 (Paul Bocuse) 創辦 來自世界各地的名廚將會雲集此地, 並在觀眾面前大顯身手, 以賽會規定的食材即場炮製兩道精美菜餚, 時間總共只得 5 小時間左右, 確實是對參賽者的挑戰 Boulevard de l Europe 廳, 位於新加坡浮爾頓酒店的 Tapas for the Lion City Chassieu, France 浮亭部份 Tolosa 在這間前衛 El Bulli alumni Alain Devahive 餐廳服務已有接近十年的歷 Tolosa heads up Catalunya, 史, 深明如何將西班牙加泰羅 the highly-anticipated Spanish 尼亞的精致傳統菜式呈現在食 restaurant in the Fullerton s 家面前 floating pavilion. Tolosa, who 25

28 recipe Foie Gras Royale 皇家鵝肝 6 Foie gras Royale 皇家鵝肝 : Langoustine tartar 他他汁海螯蝦 : Feyel foie gras Cream Milk Port wine reduction Egg whole Salt/pepper Feyel 鵝肝忌廉牛奶砵酒濃汁全蛋鹽 / 胡椒 500 g 克 200 g 克 50 ml 毫升 10 g 克 5 nos 隻 Langoustine fresh Coriander leave Lemon juice Chive Salt/pepper 新鮮海螯蝦芫茜檸檬汁蝦夷蔥鹽 / 胡椒 50 g 克 5 g 克 5 ml 毫升 5 g 克 Spinach/Sorrel Soup 菠菜 / 酸模湯 : French style kim chi 法式醃菜 : Spinach Sorrel Butter Milk Salt/pepper 菠菜酸模牛油牛奶鹽 / 胡椒 200 g 克 100 g 克 50 g 克 100 ml 毫升 Lentil Bean with Curry & Orange powder 咖哩橙粉扁豆 : Chinese cabbage White balsamic vinegar Espelette piment powder Ginger Garlic Fish sauce Salt/pepper Lemon zest 紹菜白香醋 紅椒粉 薑蒜頭魚露鹽 / 胡椒檸檬皮 200 g 克 30 ml 毫升 3 g 克 10 g 克 5 g 克 5 ml 毫升 1 pc 個 Lentil bean Onion Carrot Celery Thyme Bay leaf Bacon Garlic Curry powder Orange powder Chicken stock 扁豆洋蔥紅蘿蔔芹菜百里香月桂葉煙肉蒜頭咖哩粉橙粉雞湯 100 g 克 20 g 克 10 g 克 10 g 克 1 leaf 塊葉 ½ leaf 塊葉 10 slice 片 1 pc 個 10 g 克 5 g 克 300 ml 毫升 Baby Zucchini 小翠玉瓜 : Baby Zucchini 小翠玉瓜 50 g 克 ** Recipe is created by Chef Jeongin Hwang, Champion of ADCT 2012 Culinary Tournament Master Chef Category ** 食譜由安得利美饌廚藝大賽 精英組冠軍黃政仁 (Jeongin Hwang) 提供 26

29 recipe Method: Foie gras Royale: 1. Remove the veins from the inside of the foie gras. 2. Cut in small pieces and put in the blender with indicated ingredients. 3. Season it and pour onto the plate, cook in a steam oven at 85 C for 20 minutes. Spinach/Sorrel Soup: 1. Blanch the spinach and sorrel in boiling water. 2. Melt the butter in a pan and deglaze with milk. 3. Put all of the above into a blender, blend it finely and season it accordingly. Lentil Bean with Curry & Orange powder: 1. Cook the lentil with the indicated ingredients (minus the curry and orange powder) until tender and then add curry powder and orange powder at the end. Langoustine tartar 1. Cut the langoustine into small cubes and mix with chopped chives and coriander. 2. Season with lemon juice, salt and pepper. French style kim chi: 1. Marinade the Chinese cabbage with indicated ingredients for 1 week. 2. Remove the garnish and cut in to small cubes and season accordingly. Baby Zucchini 1. Cut the baby zucchini into small cubes and grill them on the griller. Final Preparation: 1. Pour with spinach and sorrel soup on the top of the foie gras royale. 2. Garnish with prepared langoustine tartar, French style Kim chi, lentil bean and grilled baby zucchini. 做法 : 皇家鵝肝 : 1. 去掉鵝肝內的血筋 2. 切成小塊, 然後與其他材料一併放進攪拌器內攪拌 3. 加入調味料, 倒到碟上, 然後放進 85 C 的蒸爐內煮 20 分鐘 菠菜 / 酸模湯 : 1. 以滾水白灼菠菜和酸模 2. 將牛油放在平底鑊上融化, 然後加入牛奶溶解微粒 3. 將以上材料放進攪拌器, 攪至極細, 最後調味 咖哩橙粉扁豆 : 1. 將扁豆和其他材料一起烹煮 ( 咖哩粉和橙粉除外 ), 直至扁豆變軟, 最後加入咖哩粉和橙粉 他他汁海螯蝦 : 1. 將海螯蝦切成小方塊, 然後與切碎的蝦夷蔥和芫茜混合 2. 用檸檬汁 鹽和胡椒調味 法式醃菜 : 1. 用上述材料將紹菜醃製 1 個星期 2. 撥開配料, 將醃菜切成小方塊, 最後調味 小翠玉瓜 : 1. 將小翠玉瓜切成小方塊, 然後在烤架燒烤 最後步驟 : 1. 將菠菜酸模湯倒在皇家鵝肝上 2. 以先前準備好的他他汁海螯蝦 法式醃菜 扁豆和烤小翠玉瓜伴碟 27

30 recipe Ice-Fire Foie Gras 6 冰火鵝肝 Ice 冰 : Feyel foie gras Port wine jelly Milk Port wine Calvados Gelatin leaf Fig jam Feyel 鵝肝砵酒啫喱牛奶砵酒蘋果白蘭地酒魚膠片無花果醬 120 g 克 60 ml 毫升 60 ml 毫升 12 g 克 12 g 克 4 slice 片 30 g 克 1. Put the Port wine jelly into the mold and put it in fridge. 2. Boil the milk to 70 C, simmer the foie gras with the milk for 15 minutes, then put in gelatine leaves. 3. Put the milk and foie gras in food processor, add sea salt, white pepper, Port wine and calvados, then blend all together. 4. Use a strainer to filtrate, put the mixture into the mold and return to fridge. 5. When the mixture is set, remove from mold to serve. 1. 將砵酒啫喱放進模具, 然後放入雪櫃 2. 將牛奶煮至 70 C, 再將鵝肝加入牛奶用文火煮 15 分鐘, 然後放入魚膠片 3. 將牛奶和鵝肝放入食物處理器, 加入海鹽 白胡椒 砵酒和蘋果白蘭地酒, 攪拌混合 4. 使用篩子過濾, 將調和物放進模具, 再放入雪櫃 5. 調和物成形後, 從模具中取出, 準備上桌 Hot 火 : Feyel foie gras Oatmeal toast (Round Shape) Fresh fig Port wine Sugar Feyel 鵝肝燕麥多士 ( 圓形 ) 新鮮無花果砵酒糖 180 g 克 6 pcs 塊 1 pc 個 18 g 克 20 g 克 1. Peel the fig and cut into 6 pieces. Glaze the fig with Port wine and sugar. 2. Cut the foie gras to round shape. 3. Pan-seared the foie gras before serving on oatmeal toast, garnish the top with fig jam and fig piece. 1. 將無花果去皮, 切成 6 塊 在無花果塊上塗上砵酒和糖 2. 將鵝肝切成圓形 3. 煎香鵝肝, 放於燕麥多士上, 再在上方伴以無花果醬和無花果塊 Garnish 伴菜 : Green tomato Choi Sum Mixed cress Kumquat Sea salt flakes Golden powder 青番茄菜心混合水芹金桔海鹽片金粉 80 g 克 6 pcs 條 1 pc 個 ** Recipe is created by Chef Chan Sze Ling, First runner-up of ADCT 2012 Culinary Tournament Master Chef Category ** 食譜由安得利美饌廚藝大賽 精英組亞軍陳思靈提供 32 26

31

32 Publisher: Angliss Food Service is proud to represent the following brands for Greater China markets. We have offices in Hong Kong, China, Macau, Malaysia and Singapore to serve all food service and retail customers. Hong Kong & China Partners: Hong Kong Partners: China Partners: Own Brands: