The long way to the perfection of taste It has been more than 125 years that De Cecco produces pasta in the same way in Italy. In 1886,

Transcription

1 viva italia! >> Andrea Spagoni on the state of Italian cuisine in Hong Kong >> Olive oil: truths & myths >> Saigon in Singapore >> Andrea >> >>

2 The long way to the perfection of taste It has been more than 125 years that De Cecco produces pasta in the same way in Italy. In 1886, they revolutionised pasta-making by creating methods that would dry pasta so that it remains al dente whether cooked by top chefs or a novice home cook. It only uses meticulously selected durum wheat, and you have the world s finest pasta, delivered to tables all across the globe.

3 Best durum wheat selection De Cecco uses wheat with the gluten index at 70 or higher. High quality proteins ensure the best cooking performance, so De Cecco always cooks al dente. Mild grinding Pure semolina is the result of the finest and richest part of the wheat milling ; De Cecco makes pasta with heart of wheat (no more than 67%, versus at least 75% for most other pasta producers), a low ash content pasta with an intense wheat fragrance. High thickness of semolina to keep the starch structure intact : 40% of semolina has a diameter of over 400 microns. Kneading of fresh semolina with cold spring water Semolina is kneaded with cold natural spring water located all around De Cecco production plant, which ensures a naturally sweeter taste and better cooking performance. Bronze drawing The bronze plates provide a unique porosity that makes the sauces and condiments cling to De Cecco pasta. Slow drying at low temperature Wheat protein content is damaged if pasta is dried at high temperature. De Cecco dries pasta at lower temperature and longer time to preserve the natural organoleptic and nutritional properties of the semolina and the final products. Perfect product performance and consistency under double-cooking. 80% of the pasta structure is maintained even after a 20% overcooking time. The full range of De Cecco products, including the newest organic and kamut pastas, as well as sauces and olive oils, are available at Angliss Food Service. Please contact your sales representative for details.

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5 contents 05 Amuse Bouche A word from Managing Director, Johnny Kang 16 Hot Talk Liquid Gold 06 Behind The Stoves 20 Duke of Domani, Chef Andrea Spagoni Chef s Talk Italian, served chill, Chef Giuliano Berta 09 Special Report Asia s 50 Best Restaurant 22 Slice of the Past Taking Shape - the myths and legends behind pasta Restaurant Insider Beyond Spring Rolls and Pho Book Talk Celebrating Italy Talk Fresh The man who made truffles famous Talk of the Town & Globe Events, shows and new restaurants in Greater China and around the world Sweet Talk La Dolce Vita, Chef Andrea Bonaffini Recipes Tofu, Gianduja, Sesame, Raspberry features Duke of Domani Chef Andrea Spagoni shares his story and views on how Italian cuisine has progressed in Hong Kong. Tartufi Morra The story of the man behind Alba s famed truffles. Liquid Gold Olive oil is great for health. How do chefs use the golden nectar? La Dolce Vita Chef Andrea Bonaffini talks about what inspires his creations in the pastry kitchen. 二十六期 Published by: Editor-in-Chief Janice Leung Editor Grace Chan Project Manager Winnie Wong Creative Director Lucia Cahyaningtyas Chinese Translation A Chan of RR Donnelley 總編輯 Janice Leung 編輯 Grace Chan 項目统籌 Winnie Wong 設計及藝術總監 Lucia Cahyaningtyas 翻譯 A Chan of RR Donnelley Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Limited Kwai Fung Crescent Kwai Chung, N.T. Hong Kong T F info@angliss.com.hk Foodtalk is published quarterly by Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Ltd Copyright Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Ltd. All rights reserved. Foodtalk 季刊由安得利香港餐飲有限公司出版 2013 安得利香港餐飲有限公司版權所有, 不得翻印 出版 : 安得利香港餐飲有限公司香港新界葵涌葵豐街 號電話 傳真 info@angliss.com.hk 03

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7 amuse bouche Welcome to the 26th issue of Foodtalk. With the coming of Spring, a new year begins. All things grow sturdily, and everywhere you see vigor and vitality. Inspired by our conviction that there is no such thing as best, you can always do better, the Asia team at Angliss Food Service continues to develop and seek out new opportunities, adapting to any business environment. Our Singapore food service businesses are set to integrate operations and expand sales channels, in particular in terms of servicing the direct customer base. In addition, we will establish a local dedicated distributor for seafood products and sauces forwarded by air from Japan. At the end of 2012, Goodmaster Food Shenzhen was established and is now operating businesses in a range of over 200 up market, top-quality baking product raw material products from all over the world, including dried fruit, nuts, cocoa products, and premixed flour. It provides optimized and dedicated services to commercial food plant, bakery shop chain, general food store, and snack food customers in China. In addition, a new plant with a total area of 6,000 square meters has already begun operations at Angliss Shenzhen Food Service Ltd. The new facility is conveniently located in nearby Longgang Pinghu, where there is a logistics cluster. These new storage facilities include freezer, chiller, ambient constant-storage, and dry warehousing, a processing center, and offices. Angliss Shenzhen Food Service is now positioned for exceptional growth, advancing by leaps and bounds. This edition of Foodtalk focuses on Italy. We aim to give readers a new understanding of the ingredient trio of pasta, olive oil and truffles. In addition, we also visit three Italian chefs now working in Hong Kong and Malaysia, to pick up a bit about what they are doing in Asia. We sincerely hope you enjoy the many goodies we bring you in this issue....there s no such thing as best, you can always do better 沒有最好, 只有更好 第 26 期的 Foodtalk 與大家見面了! 春天是一年伊始, 萬物茁壯成長, 處處表現朝氣和生機 對於安得利餐飲亞洲團隊而言, 在任何營商環境下我們也是繼續發展, 發掘商機 ; 因為我們深信 沒有最好, 只有更好 新加坡餐飲部門會作整合, 擴大銷售渠道, 尤其是服務直接客户群 另外, 我們也會於當地成立專門分銷由日本空運的海鮮產品及醬料的公司 深圳市高美食品有限公司已於去年底成立, 經營中高端烘焙原輔料產品, 包括乾果 堅果 可可製品 預拌粉等超過兩百種來自全世界的優質食品原料, 優化及專注服務國內的工業食品廠 烘焙連鎖店 超市以及休閒食品客戶 此外, 總面積 6,000 平方米的安得利 ( 深圳 ) 新廠房亦已開始運作, 新廠房坐落於交通便利 物流集中的龍崗平湖, 新庫房包括 : 冷藏倉 冷凍倉 恆溫倉 乾倉 加工中心和辦公區域 ; 安得利深圳公司已準備就緒, 踏上超常規跨越式發展的道路 今期 Foodtalk 的主題地區為意大利, 我們會讓讀者對意大利麵 橄欖油和松露這三款食材有嶄新認識 此外, 我們也訪問了三位現於香港和馬來西亞工作的意藉大廚, 細聽他們在亞洲工作的點滴 衷心希望你會欣賞這一期的豐富內容 Johnny Kang Regional Managing Director Asia 江文喜亞洲區董事總經理 05

8 domani 的掌舵人 duke of domani A relatively new arrival in Hong Kong, Andrea Spagoni has been the Executive Chef at Domani since its inception, cooking for the town s bigwigs and fashionistas. Unlike many chefs with a clear trajectory in just one cuisine, Spagoni interestingly spent his early years in Nobu in London, an experience that opened his eyes to another style of cooking as well as kitchen culture, an enriching experience similar to what he advises young chefs to gain. It was perhaps also a preview of his Asian encounter to come. Andrea Spagoni 來港的日子雖然不算長, 自 Domani 開業以來卻一直擔任行政總廚, 經常為本港的商紳名流烹調美食 有別於往往只專注某種菜式的其他大廚,Spagoni 年輕時曾於倫敦的 Nobu 學藝, 在那裡學習與別不同的烹調方式及廚房文化, 令他大開眼界 他建議年輕的廚師應吸收不同經驗, 豐富自己的閱歷 現時 Spagoni 來到亞洲, 他的閱歷理應更加豐富 F [Foodtalk]: Tell us a bit about yourself, and how you ended up in Hong Kong. S (Andrea Spagoni): I was born in Turin. I used to be the coowner of a restaurant in Italy, and my business partner came to Hong Kong, and had the opportunity to open Domani. During the first year I was taken on as a consultant, then I continued on. I ve been in Hong Kong a couple of years now. The title was really just on paper, on a daily basis, nothing has really changed. F [Foodtalk]: 你可否介紹一下自己? 為何會選擇來香港? S (Andrea Spagoni): 我在意大利的都靈出生 我和業務夥伴在意大利共同經營一間餐廳, 其後他決定來香港創立 Domani 我在第一年主要擔當顧問角色, 其後也來到香港 現在我已經在香港工作多年 雖然我的名片上印著 行政主廚 的名銜, 日常工作卻和以往大致相同 06

9 behind the stoves F: Have you always wanted to be a chef? S: I think so. I can t remember the moment when I realised, but I d never thought about doing anything else. When I was 12, maybe younger, I said, I want to be a chef, and I want to travel around the world. F: What do you like about Hong Kong? S: Everything is very easy, and I don t mean that in a negative way. No matter what you re trying to get, it s easy to have everything on hand. F: In your opinion, what is the state of Italian cuisine in Hong Kong? S: I think it s really good in terms of quality, and lately, in terms of quantity. The Italian community is getting bigger, especially around the restaurant industry, which means it s well appreciated among people, no matter which level of cuisine they eat, it s getting very successful. As I ve only been here for two years, I can t really tell and compare the knowledge and awareness of the cuisine compared to ten years ago. According to what people tell me, it seems like people are getting more interested and a lot more educated about Italian food. Generally speaking, the crowd is well prepared, at least for us at Domani, we have a very wide crowd. We have Western clients, we also have locals, no matter how rich they are or what they do in their lives, they come from different backgrounds, different cultures. We re in the middle as common ground. F: What was it like for you, an Italian chef, to be at Nobu? S: It was my first experience in a different kind of cuisine. At that point, the trend of fusion cuisine was probably already [heading downhill]. It was probably one of the places where I learned the most, in terms of kitchen management, and I finally got a different perspective on the kitchen. That usually happens when you move from restaurant to restaurant, following different chefs, you generally end up having a different view on cuisine. It was a big difference from what I was doing before. F: 你是否自少就立志成為一名廚師? S: 我想是吧 雖然我忘記何時便立志成為廚師, 卻從未想過要做其他工作 當我 12 歲或更年輕時, 我就對自己說 : 我想成為廚師, 我想環遊世界 F: 你最喜歡香港的甚麼? S: 香港的一切都非常方便 無論你想要甚麼東西, 都能唾手可得 F: 你認為香港的意大利菜如何? S: 我認為香港的意大利菜很優秀, 近年也進駐不少意大利餐廳 這裡的意大利人社區越來越大, 特別是在餐飲業界, 意味著香港人越來越欣賞意大利菜, 不同層次的意式餐廳均經營得非常成功 由於我在香港只逗留兩年, 實在不能將現時的情況與十年前作比較 根據其他人所述, 香港人對意大利菜的認識及興趣似乎與日俱增 一般而言, 香港人對意大利菜有一定的認知, 至少是 Domani 的顧客, 他們來自不同階層 我們的顧客包括外國人及本地人 但是, 無論他們的收入有多少 職業是甚麼, 其背景 文化均有所差異, 所以我們經常強調中庸之道 F: 身為意大利廚師, 你在 Nobu 獲得甚麼經驗? S: 那裡的菜式與別不同, 對我而言是非常新穎的體驗 那時,fusion 菜式可能已經走下坡 但我學到許多有關廚房管理的知識, 最後更發展出對廚房的嶄新觀點 一般來說, 廚師由一間餐廳轉到另一間餐廳工作時, 會跟隨不同的廚師學藝, 從而對烹調有不同觀點 Nobu 與我過往工作的餐廳真是大相逕庭 F: 你認為香港和倫敦的顧客有何不同? S: 大約 12 年前, 我在倫敦工作時仍是個小人物, 所以不太能理解當時的整體情況 事移世易, 但我認為倫敦或香港等亞洲地區的顧客分別不大 假如食物美味且物有所值, 普遍都會受到所有顧客歡迎 此外, 顧客亦希望餐廳以誠信的態度來經營, 待客以誠 F: Do you think customers in Hong Kong and London are different? S: I was in London almost 12 years ago, so at the time I was just a small potato, and didn t really have the big picture. Times have changed as well, but I don t think there s really much difference in customers in London or Asia or Hong Kong, any customer is generally happy if they get good value for money. Once they feel that the restaurant is working in an honest way and treats the customer with respect, no matter what they re eating. 07

10 when you move from restaurant to restaurant you generally end up having a different view on cuisine F: In your opinion, what is the most underappreciated ingredient? S: Generally, the secondary cuts of animals. Most of the time you offer these kinds of cuts to customers, they feel kind of mistreated, and they re always expecting to have rib-eye, or strip, and so on, which is not [a sentiment] I really share. 廚師由一間餐廳轉到另一間餐廳工作時, 會跟隨不同的廚師學藝, 從而對烹調有不同觀點 I use secondary cuts maybe in a sauce, in a stew in many different ways. I don t want to go into ethical matters, but once we kill an animal, we re supposed to get the most out of it. F: What would you do with brisket? S: I m from Piedmonte, and we love braised meats. Secondary cuts are hard to cook [and make tender], so we usually like to cook it in wine and spices. Let s say braised brisket, we like to use wines like Nebbiolo, it s the wine that Piedmontese would usually use in the kitchen. If you re feeling flush, you might use a Barolo. We d serve it with a sauce, that s reduced [from the braising liquid]. F: What is an ingredient that epitomises Italian cuisine? S: Whoever you ask around the world, they will usually associate Italian cuisine with the tomato. This isn t based on my experience, it s a fact. I love tomatoes. It s something you can really do a lot with, especially in Italian cuisine. F: Some would contest that, as tomatoes aren t natively Italian. S: There are many products and dishes that are associated with countries or regions that had been brought to them from elsewhere. It s not about the country of origin, it s where the product [had the chance to] express itself. Americans wouldn t know what to do with a tomato! F: What advice would you give to young chefs? S: The most important thing is to invest in yourself, try not to look [only] for money, and try to enrich your experience. Try not to be too narrow-minded, because the new generation I m trying to explain this to my chefs too they should not just look at tomorrow, but the week after, and the week after. At a young age, it is probably better to earn a thousand less a month, when [the experience] could be an investment for the future. F: 你認為那種食材最被人低估? S: 我認為次級肉類普遍最被人低估 顧客看到以這些肉類烹調而成的菜式時, 大多會感到失望, 因為他們往往希望享用肉眼扒 牛腰脊肉等 但我卻不認同他們的觀點 我會在次級肉類上淋上醬汁或用以燜煮, 烹煮方法繁多 我不願意探討飲食道德觀, 但認為我們在屠宰動物後, 應物盡其用 F: 你會怎樣烹煮牛腩? S: 我來自意大利西北的皮埃蒙特, 當地人很喜歡吃炆牛腩 次級肉類較難煮得細嫩, 所以我們一般會以酒和香料來烹煮 以炆牛腩為例, 我喜歡以 Nebbiolo 來烹調, 這是皮埃蒙特人經常用作煮食的酒類 如果高檔一些, 可以使用 Barolo, 最後再淋上濃稠的醬汁 F: 你認為最能代表意大利菜的食材是甚麼? S: 世界各地的人均會認同番茄最能代表意大利菜 這並非根據我本人意見而作出, 而是事實 我喜歡番茄 它的用途多不勝數, 特別是在意大利菜中 F: 但有些人會反駁番茄並非源自意大利 S: 許多產品和菜式所用的材料都是源自其他國家或地區 因此來源地並不重要, 重要的是在那裡最能體現產品的特色 舉例來說, 美國人不懂得以番茄烹煮食物! F: 你對年輕的廚師有何建議? S: 最重要是增值自己, 不要只重視金錢, 應豐富自己的經驗 切勿過於短視, 對新一代的廚師而言 ( 當然也包括本人餐廳的廚師 ), 他們不應只顧明天, 應當高瞻遠矚, 重視往後的日子 年輕時, 每個月賺少一千元也沒有甚麼問題, 反而應取得更多經驗, 為未來作好準備 08

11 special report Asia s 50 Best Restaurants 亞洲 50 間最佳餐廳 Singapore is known for taking its food seriously, but the evening of February 25 was one of particular importance to gourmands. Asia s best chefs, restaurateurs, food critics and stars of the food and beverage scene congregated in the glitzy Marina Bay Sands to celebrate a new, and undoubtedly influential award, The S. Pellegrino Asia s 50 Best Restaurants. 新加坡的美食遐邇馳名, 是不爭的事實 ; 而對美食家來說,2 月 25 日是一個別具意義的日子 當天, 新加坡濱海金沙灣酒店可謂星光熠熠, 亞洲首屈一指的廚師 餐廳東主 飲食評論家, 以至飲食界的明星, 都濟濟一堂, 參加大受餐飲業重視的 S. Pellegrino 亞洲 50 間最佳餐廳頒獎典禮 The name will sound familiar to those tuned into the F&B scene, as S. Pellegrino is also the main sponsor behind The World s 50 Best Restaurants awards, which was established in Some regard the singling-out of Asia as testament to the importance of the region. In a press release, William Drew of William Reed Business Media, organiser of the awards, says, We launched Asia s 50 Best Restaurants as part of The World s 50 Best Restaurants program to recognise the region s growing restaurant industry and diverse gastronomic landscape. Like The World s 50 Best Restaurants, Asia s 50 Best is organised by UK-based Restaurant Magazine, published by William Reed Business Media. The list is compiled from the same group of 900 restaurant industry experts, divided into 26 regions, each with 36 panelists. The experts, often renowned restaurant critics, each have 7 votes, at least three of which must go to restaurants outside their own region, and all of them visited personally within the past 18 months. The countries covered in The Asia s 50 Best Restaurants list are: Bangladesh, Myanmar, Brunei, Cambodia, China, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Laos, Macao, Malaysia, Maldives, Micronesia, Nauru, Nepal, Pakistan, Philippines, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, Thailand, Timor-Leste and Vietnam. Topping the list is Les Créations de Narisawa in Tokyo, known for its meticulous, avant-garde cuisine and devotion to sustainable and ethical ingredients. Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa received classical European training under the likes of Robuchon and Bocuse before setting up shop in his native country. Already well known to gourmets worldwide, the award will, no doubt, bring more notoriety and visitors to this gastronomic sanctuary. In second place was also a Tokyo restaurant, Nihonryori Ryugin, followed by Nahm in Bangkok, Amber in Hong Kong and Restaurant Andre in Singapore. Within the Top 50, China (including Hong Kong and Macau) dominated, with a total of 16 restaurants. image: 亞洲 50 間最佳餐廳大獎將會越益受到餐飲業人士的注意, 原因是於 2002 年創辦的全球 50 間最佳餐廳大獎, S. Pellegrino 也是其主要贊助商 不少人指出, 為亞洲地區專設獎項, 顯示這個地區的重要性與日俱增 籌辦這次頒獎典禮的公司 William Reed Business Media 的 William Drew 在新聞稿中表示 : 我們繼全球 50 間最佳餐廳大獎後, 推出亞洲 50 間最佳餐廳大獎, 突顯亞洲地區餐飲業的蓬勃發展及當地多元化的飲食 與全球 50 間最佳餐廳大獎一樣, 亞洲 50 間最佳餐廳大獎是由英國的餐廳雜誌 (Restaurant Magazine) 所舉辦, 並由 William Reed Business Media 出版 最佳餐廳的名單由 900 位 餐飲業專家 選出, 分為 26 個不同地區, 而每個地區有 36 位評審員 這些 專家 往往是著名的餐廳評論家, 他們每位有 7 票, 其中至少有 3 位會前往其所屬區域以外的餐廳 在過去 18 個月, 他們都親身拜訪過這些餐廳 亞洲 50 間最佳餐廳大獎的名單涵蓋了以下的國家和地區 : 孟加拉 緬甸 汶萊 柬埔寨 中國 香港 印度 印尼 日本 韓國 老撾 澳門 馬來西亞 馬爾代夫 密克羅尼西亞 瑙魯 尼泊爾 巴基斯坦 菲律賓 新加坡 斯里蘭卡 台灣 泰國 東帝汶和越南 名列最佳餐廳榜首是東京的 Les Créations de Narisawa, 其菜式非常精緻, 而且極具創新, 而所使用的食材著重飲食道德及可持續發展 廚師 Yoshihiro Narisawa 過往曾受教於 Robuchon Bocuse 等名廚, 接受傳統的歐洲烹飪訓練, 其後更於日本創立自己的餐廳 全球老饕對 Les Créations de Narisawa 已經非常熟悉, 但最佳餐廳的獎項無疑有助提高其名氣, 令更多美食家對這間餐廳趨之若鶩 排名第二位的 Nihonryori Ryugin, 也是東京的一間餐廳, 而緊隨其後則為曼谷的 Nahm 香港的 Amber, 以及新加坡的 Restaurant Andre 在 50 間最佳餐廳的名單中, 中國 ( 包括香港及澳門 ) 獨佔鰲頭, 一共有 16 間餐廳上榜 09

12 restaurant insider 春卷及河粉以外的美食 Beyond Spring Rolls and Pho Danish-Vietnamese Nguyen Quoc Nam is the chef-owner behind two modern Vietnamese concepts in Singapore, a bistro named Annam Vietnamese Cuisine, and two quick-service eateries under the NamNam Noodle Bar banner. The parent company is renowned Singaporean restaurant group Les Amis Group. 丹麥籍越南裔的 Nguyen Quoc Nam 是新加坡兩間新派越南餐廳的總廚兼東主, 主理 Annam Vietnamese Cuisine 及以快速服務見稱的 NamNam Noodle Bar, 後者在新加坡設有兩間店舖 其母公司是新加坡著名的餐廳集團 Les Amis Group F [Foodtalk]: How did Annam and NamNam Noodle Bar begin? N [Nguyen Quoc Nam]: I grew up in Denmark and was schooled in European cooking. After many years of touring kitchens all over the globe to cook in various fine-dining restaurants, I decided to go back to my roots and open a restaurant specialising in authentic Vietnamese cuisine. Through my restaurant, I wanted to educate the world about Vietnamese food, beyond spring rolls and pho. During a holiday trip to Vietnam about 5 years ago, I got my first inspiration from a local noodle bar chain called Pho24. I also learned of David Chang, chef and founder of the Momofuku group and found his restaurant concepts interesting. I kept in touch with the Chairman of the Les Amis Group and found an opportunity to share my ideas with him; and there a partnership was formed. In October 2011, we opened our first restaurant Annam Vietnamese Cuisine to introduce traditional Vietnamese home-style recipes and to educate people that there is more to Vietnamese cuisine than its famed street food. A year later, we opened NamNam Noodle Bar, which focuses on value-for-money Vietnamese street favourites. F: What were some challenges and mistakes you learned in opening these three eateries? N: Our biggest mistake was to target the wrong market segment at the beginning. When we first opened Annam Vietnamese Cuisine, we wanted to reach the mid-upper market and our menu prices were aligned accordingly. In the first one and a half years of operations, we realised that Singapore s perception and knowledge of Vietnamese food was still fairly shallow and may not have been ready to accept high-end Vietnamese cuisine. Also from the opening F [Foodtalk]: Annam 和 NamNam Noodle Bar 是怎樣創立的? N [Nguyen Quoc Nam]: 我在丹麥長大, 並在當地學習歐洲烹飪技巧 隨著多年在全球不少高級餐廳工作過後, 我決定回歸越南傳統, 開設一間專門提供地道越南美食的餐廳 我希望餐廳可以令各地的人了解春卷和河粉以外的越南美食 大約 5 年前在越南度假期間, 我從當地越南河粉連鎖集團 Pho 24 中得到靈感 此外, 我也聽聞過 David Chang, 他是 Momofuku 飲食集團的總廚兼創辦人 我認為他的餐廳概念很有趣 我一直與 Les Amis Group 的主席保持聯絡, 並有機會將這個想法告訴他, 我們因而成為了合作夥伴 在 2011 年 10 月, 我們開設首間餐廳 Annam Vietnamese Cuisine, 引進了越南的傳統住家菜式, 讓人們得知越南美食並非只有那些非常著名的街頭小食 一年後, 我們開設 NamNam Noodle Bar, 主要提供物有所值的越南街頭美食 F: 你在開設這三間餐廳時遇到甚麼挑戰, 並從錯誤中學習到甚麼? N: 我們最嚴重的錯誤是開始時市場定位錯誤 當我們開設 Annam Vietnamese Cuisine 時, 目標顧客是中上階層的人士, 所以餐牌的定價略高 在營運最初的一年半, 我們發現新加坡人對越南食品的瞭解並不深入, 所以未能接受較高檔的越南菜 其後開設 NamNam Noodle Bar 的時候, 我們已對大眾市場有更深入的瞭解 就此, 我決定了 Annam 未來的發展方向 在今年 3 月, 我們對 Annam 的餐牌及價格作出了調整, 使當地市場更能接受我們的菜式 10

13 restaurant insider of NamNam Noodle Bar, we learned a lot about the mass market and from there, I made decisions on how Annam was to progress in future. In March this year, we revised the menu and prices offered at Annam to make it more accessible to the local market. F: How do the two concepts differ? N: At Annam Vietnamese Cuisine, we serve a wide selection of authentic Vietnamese home-style dishes from North, Central, and South Vietnam. The cuisine at Annam is refined and created using top quality produce. Most of the dishes at Annam are served for communal sharing complementing the restaurant s interior which is designed to look like a typical 1930s French colonial home found in Vietnam. NamNam Noodle Bar, on the other hand, is something that appeals to people from all walks of life. NamNam Noodle Bar s menu is bolstered with classic Vietnamese street icons and we do not charge government taxes and service charge. A complete meal needs not cost above $20! Both restaurants however have a commonality. We do not use MSG at Annam and NamNam Noodle Bar. I have always believed that good cooking should be good for our health as well therefore none of my recipes employ the use of MSG. F: 兩者在概念上有何分別? N: 我們在 Annam Vietnamese Cuisine 提供一系列來自越南北部 中部及南部的住家菜式, 味道傳統, 煮法精緻, 並頂級食材烹調 Annam 的大部份菜式是提供予多人享用, 而餐廳的室內裝潢令人猶如置身在 1930 年代法國殖民時期的傳統越南民宅 至於 NamNam Noodle Bar 則比較貼近大眾市場 當中的餐牌有各式各樣經典的越南街頭美食 此外, 我們不會收取消費稅及服務費, 所以整份套餐不會超過 20 新加坡元! 儘管如此, 兩間餐廳也有共通之處 :Annam 和 NamNam Noodle Bar 均不會使用味精 我向來相信, 美食理應有益健康, 所以我們提供的菜式絕不含味精 F: 你會如何描述目標市場? N: 我現在已經不會再將顧客分類, 這樣做太複雜了 假如你開始時分析得太多, 最後反而變得不知所措 有時候, 你呈上產品, 只希望受到顧客青睞, 就是這麼簡單! 與 20 年前不同的是, 現時富人除了光顧高級的餐廳外, 有時也會坐在大排檔享用叻沙, F: 你對未來有甚麼計劃或目標? N: 我計劃在新加坡及海外一共開設 20 間餐廳 我希望 Namnam 會像 Starbucks 或 Breadtalk 般延申至海外市場 這並非一間快餐店, 因為幾乎所有食品都是自家製作, 只是提供較快速的服務而已 我覺得這是我們與競爭對手的最大分別 11

14 restaurant insider F: How would you describe your target market? N: I stopped thinking about grouping [customers], it made things too complicated. You start to analyse too much, and in the end, you don t know what to do. Sometimes, you just present a product, and you just hope for the best! Unlike 20 years ago, today, wealthy people also sit in hawker stalls to have laksa, and the next day they sit in the most expensive restaurant in town. F: What are your plans or goals for the future? N: I plan to open 20 restaurants in total, in Singapore and overseas. I see NamNam like Starbucks or Breadtalk. However, it s not fast food because almost everything is homemade, but it s a quick-service concept. I think that s what distinguishes us from our competitors. F: Consumers always want the best for the lowest possible price. What are your thoughts? N: We face this problem daily, especially in Singapore. Like any business, I think that whatever you believe in, you just have to stand firm. If you know what you re doing and present a good product that you are proud of, you would have no need to compromise. Of course, there are times when we make mistakes, then we have to be truly honest with ourselves and improve. I m not going to change my restaurant just because a few guests say we should run it differently. Of course, if 10 out of 10 [guests] say the same thing, then it s time to amend something. Most importantly, we need to be open and listen to our customers. We discuss within our team members, and work as a team. I love to hear feedback from everyone. FT: How would you describe your management style? N: In any good organisation, you need to let people grow. In order to grow, each of us has to know what we want. Through knowing that, you need to do your homework, and plan how you want to achieve that. I cannot do homework for everyone, so if I see someone who really has the potential, and really wants to achieve something, the door is open for them. Nothing is more challenging than managing people. To cook a dish is very simple, but to ask others to follow the same guidelines requires 10 times more energy! FT: What do you think you have gained from this experience? N: Nothing in the world is as great as having experienced people who have a huge capacity to teach you, I saw this opportunity and couldn t say no. It s not only about business, but a long-term friendship and respect we have for each other. [A relationship like this] is much bigger than the business itself. F: 現時顧客往往希望以最廉價獲得優質的產品 你對此有何意見? N: 這是我們每天面對的問題, 特別是在新加坡 但不管是從事甚麼行業, 我認為都應堅持自己的信念 如果你清楚了解自己的工作, 而且產品非常優質, 令你引以為傲, 你便毋需作出妥協 當然, 我們有時也會犯錯, 犯錯後必須勇於承認, 並作出改善 我不會因為個別食客對餐廳的營運提出異議, 而動輒改變經營方式 當然, 如果所有顧客一致提出有關建議, 那麼我們就需要作出一些調整 最重要的是, 我們必須持有開放態度, 好好聆聽顧客的意見 我們會與團隊成員共同討論, 團結一致解決問題 我樂於聽取所有人的意見 F: 你會如何描述你的管理模式? N: 不管在任何公司, 你需要協助員工成長 為此, 所有人需要知道自己的目標, 然後必須搜集資料, 計劃如何達致有關目標 我不能為所有員工籌備這些工作, 但假如我發現那位員工具有相關的潛質, 我會為他們提供機會 管理員工的工作極具挑戰性 自己動手烹煮菜式相當容易, 但要其他人根據同一指示煮出同樣的菜式, 就需要多花十倍的精力! FT: 你從這次的經驗學到了甚麼? N: 多位經驗豐富的人在開設餐廳時對我作出指導, 這經驗非常寶貴 我把握這個機會, 不會徒然錯過 這不只是關乎於一盤生意, 而是長遠的友誼 互相的尊重 這種關係絕對比生意重要 12

15 book talk Celebrating Italy 意式美食之頌歌 Giorgio Locatelli s Made in Italy has been heralded by Nigel Slater, one of the United Kingdom s best food writers, as Nothing short of a masterpiece puts everything else I have on my Italian shelf in the shade. Published in 2006, the book received the Best Food Book award at the Glenfiddich Food and Drink Awards in The tome, while over 600 pages in the softcover edition, is not exhaustive in its recipes, but covers in detail many staple products and flavour combinations that epitomise Italian cuisine. In his lengthy chapter introductions (antipasti, zuppa, risotto, pasta, pesce, carne and dolci), Locatelli provides a succinct overview of what these items are all across Italy. In the recipes, however, he appears to focus more on his home region Lombardia, in the north of Italy. Perhaps this was a strategic move, as this northern bias was rectified in his second book, Made in Sicily, published September Locatelli, now a well-known television personality in the United Kingdom, seems to prove through his writing that he is as charming as he is on screen. The writing in the book swings from emphatic personal essays to instructional formulae to cook pasta, all written with clear commitment and passion for Italian cuisine. The beautiful photography by Dan Lepard, of Italian landscapes, food, as well as the many chefs, friends and staff who have, or do work with him, are honest and compelling, and suit his writing style well. Aside from beginning each of the chapters with an introduction, he also writes in more detail about ingredients or combinations that he feels are central to Italian cuisine, from parsley and garlic, to porcini, to staples like pasta and olive oil, as well as items like cheese, which don t necessarily need to be cooked. The book is more than just a collection of recipes. Locatelli s prose, be it in his autobiographic sections, chapter introductions, or the instructions in his recipes, read like a romance novel, bringing alive his life and love for his nation s food, while extending his proverbial hand to invite us into the fold. Nigel Slater 被譽為英國最佳飲食作家之一, 他對 Giorgio Locatelli 的 意大利製造 (Made in Italy) 有以下的評價 : 這無疑是一大傑作 令所有其他有關意大利美食的著作亦為之失色 這本書於 2006 年出版, 在隨後一年的格蘭菲迪飲食大獎 (Glenfiddich Food and Drink Awards) 中獲頒最佳飲食著作的獎項 該書的平裝版共有逾 600 頁, 除了食譜外, 亦詳細介紹了意大利美食的多種基本產品及食材組合 在其前言 ( 前菜 湯 燴飯 意大利粉 魚類 肉類和甜品 ) 當中,Locatelli 言簡意賅地說明了意大利各地美食在這幾方面的差異 在食譜一章, 他似乎側重介紹其家鄉意大利北部倫巴第的菜式 但此舉可能是為了策略起見, 因為他在 2011 年 9 月出版的第二本著作 西西里製造 (Made in Sicily) 中, 改為討論更多意大利南部的菜式 Locatelli 現時是英國電視界一位家傳戶曉的人物, 他的著作與其演藝事業一樣非常精彩 這本書的寫作風格十分多元化, 由個人散文以至烹煮意大利粉的食譜, 全部都充份展示作者對意大利美食的無限熱情 此外, 由 Dan Lepard 拍攝的意大利風景及美食的精彩照片, 以及眾多與 Locatelli 共事的廚師 摯友和員工之經驗分享, 均大大提高了此書的可讀性, 和作者的優美行文可謂相得益彰 除每章開始時的簡介外,Locatelli 對於意大利美食的食材和配搭亦有詳細的描述, 包括香芹 大蒜 牛肝菌, 以至意大利和橄欖油等基本食材, 當然還包括芝士這種毋需烹調的美食 這本書並非單單是食譜大全 無論是自述部分 篇章介紹或食譜指引方面,Locatelli 的行文宛如一部浪漫小說, 盡顯其對意大利菜的無限愛意, 吸引我們一賞意式美食的精髓 13

16 talk fresh 是他使松露一舉成名 The Man Who Made Truffles Famous Truffles, the now highly-coveted gems hidden in the fertile earth of Italy s Langhe region, were once a bit of a national secret, largely unknown to the rest of the world, especially outside of Europe. Bringing Italian truffles to the world stage was Giacomo Morra, the founder of Tartufi Morra, one of the world s best-known truffle brands. To say that Giacomo devoted his life to the promotion of the truffles of Alba would be an understatement. 松露是深埋在意大利 Langhe 地區肥沃土地的無價之寶 今時今日, 老饕對其趨之若鶩 ; 但曾幾何時, 這種美食卻不為人所知, 特別是在歐洲以外的地區 事實上, 使意大利松露躍登世界舞台的推手是 Giacomo Morra 他是全球最著名松露品牌 Tartufi Morra 的創辦人 如果說 Giacomo 一生都在不遺餘力推廣 Alba 的松露, 實在一點也沒有誇張 Born into a farming family in La Morra in 1889, Giacomo Morra bought a restaurant, Albergo Ristorante Savona, in Alba in 1928, and that same year, created the very first Exhibition of the Fine Truffles of the Langhe. In 1930, the exhibition was renamed as simply Alba Truffle Fair. While he left the management of the fair to the city of Alba, Giacomo continued to work closely with the city on the promotion of truffles, from organising special trains from Turin to Milan for award ceremonies for the finest white truffles, to creating the first truffle-hunting-dog training school. For the latter project, he transformed a kennel at a castle in Roddi into a school, and held the first simulated truffle searches there. He also opened the school for visitors, thereby attracting tourists and journalists from around the world. Giacomo was also the man behind the idea of gifting an impressively-sized truffle to a celebrity of politician each year, again, drumming up press. This first took place in 1938, and the first recipient was Prince Umberto of Savoy. In 1941, it was King Vittorio Emanuele III. Suspended during World War II, the tradition was resumed in 1949 when an anonymous admirer of the American starlet Rita Hayworth requested that Morra send her the finest truffle. The news made headlines around the world. Having made his mark in the new world, in 1951, Giacomo amplified the effect by sending a 2½ kilogram truffle to the American President Harry Truman. Other recipients included Winston Churchill (1953), Marilyn Monroe (1954), Emperor Hailé Selassié of Ethiopia (1955) and the King of Saudi Arabia (1957). Giacomo Morra 在 1889 年出生於 La Morra 的務農家庭, 其後在 1928 年他購入了一間位於 Alba 名為 Albergo Ristorante Savona 的餐廳, 並於同年創辦首屆的 Langhe 優質松露展覽 在 1930 年, 該展覽會的名稱改為較簡單的 Alba 松露博覽會 其後,Alba 接手了盛會的統籌工作, 但 Giacomo 繼續與該市緊密合作推廣松露 例如, 他籌辦由都靈 (Turin) 前往米蘭 (Milan) 的特別火車班次, 使老饕能夠參加優質白松露頒獎典禮 此外, 他也創辦了首間松露獵犬的訓練學校 他將 Roddi 城堡的一間狗舍改裝成學校, 並在該地舉行了首次搜尋松露模擬活動 這間學校後來開放予遊客參觀, 吸引全球各地的記者與參觀者聞風而至 每年均有一位年度政治名人獲贈一隻巨型松露, 而提出此新穎想法的正是 Giacomo 傳媒對此當然大感興趣 1938 年的首位 得獎者 是 Savoy 的 Umberto 王子, 而 1941 年則是 Vittorio Emanuele 三世國王獲此殊榮 有關活動在二次世界大戰期間停辦 而在 1949 年重辦時, 一位對美國女星 Rita Hayworth 傾慕不已的匿名者要求 Morra 將當年最上等的松露贈予美人, 這成為了當時全球報章的頭條新聞 Giacomo 在美國這個新市場打響名氣後, 於 1951 年將 2.5 公斤重的松露贈予時任美國總統的杜魯門, 更是一時佳話 其他名貴松露的受賞者還包括 : 邱吉爾 (1953 年 ) 瑪利蓮. 夢露 (1954 年 ) 埃塞俄比亞的 Hailé Selassié 國王 (1955 年 ), 以及沙地阿拉伯國王 (1957 年 ) 名人效應持續發酵, 原因是 Giacomo 的著名餐廳 Albergo Ristorante Savona 吸引了不少國際巨星的光臨, 包括藝術家 演員及政商名人等等 14

17 talk fresh The celebrity streak continued as numerous international names, from artists, to actors, to political and commercial bigwigs passed through the doors of his restaurant Albergo Ristorante Savona. Aside from relentless work in promotions, Giacomo founded Tartufi Morra, a packaged foods company that would truly make Langhe s truffles available to even the farthest flung corners of the world. It was a family business right from the start, involving his wife Teresa and even the couple s three young sons: Mario, Giorgio and Francesco. Starting with only white truffles, the repertoire quickly grew to include black truffles, causing the international market to take notice of an extraordinarily high quality product, which up until then had been the domain of the French. Tartufi Morra s advertising boasted Le plus périgordin des truffes italièns (The most Perigord-esque of Italian truffles). He was the first to introduce white truffle cream in a tube, with shelf life of over a year. He also began bottling whole white truffles in brine, and preserving black truffles in sterile packaging. The truffles he buys from the trifulao are always of the highest quality whole truffles are always the freshest possible, and defect-free. In 1933 the The Times nicknamed Giacomo Morra the King of Truffles, a name that remained even after his death in He has been considered as such ever since, and today is still respected all over the world for his dedication to, and efforts towards promoting Langhe s unique gems. Giacomo Morra had a great love of nature and particularly for the land: God placed Alba in the middle of the Langhe, and the Langhe provided all things wonderful, he wrote. This farmer-cum-entrepreneur admired everyone, from farmers who work the land, to the trifulao who forage, and admired how they work tirelessly to draw sustenance from nature without ruining it. Today, his traditions and commitment to quality lives on. From fresh white and black truffles to preserved and frozen whole truffles, as well as truffle creams, sauces, oils and even sweets, Tartufi Morra extends the pleasure of the truffle well beyond its elusive season, ensuring gourmands are able to enjoy these delicate, elegant flavours year-round. 除了推廣松露不遺餘力外,Giacomo 也創辦了 Tartufi Morra 這間包裝食品公司, 使全球每個角落的人, 無論遠近, 都可以一嘗松露的真正美味 這間公司創辦時是一間家庭式企業, 除了其太太 Teresa 外, 三個幼子 Mario Giorgio 及 Francesco 也有參與其中 公司開始時只提供白松露, 後來迅即引入黑松露, 令世界各地市場都對意大利這種優質產品刮目相看, 不讓法國松露專美 Tartufi Morra 的廣告很自豪地宣佈 : 意大利松露的頂級之作 此外,Giacomo 也是首個引進管狀松露忌廉的人, 有關產品的保質期更超過一年 另一方面, 他亦開始以鹽水入樽儲存整個白松露, 以及用無菌包裝保存黑松露 Giacomo 購自松露獵人的松露均是最優質的, 整隻松露非常新鮮和完美 在 1933 年, 英國泰晤士報稱 Giacomo Morra 為 松露之王, 即使這位王者在 1963 年過身之後, 這個美名仍未有消減, 甚至有更盛之勢 至今, 全球各地對 Giacomo 致力推廣 Langhe 這種獨一無二的珍寶, 仍然非常欽佩 Giacomo Morra 酷愛大自然, 特別是土生之地 他曾說 : 上帝將 Alba 置於 Langhe 的中央, 世上美好之物盡在 Langhe 無論是農人 松露獵人, 都非常讚賞這位農家出生的松露管理奇才 而 Giacomo 對大自然取之有道, 並未有破壞其一草一木 時至今日,Giacomo 的傳統及對品質的堅持得以傳承下來 無論是新鮮黑白松露以至經保存的和急凍的松露, 甚至是松露忌廉 醬油 食油和糖果,Tartufi Morra 都使食家能在一年四季享受這種無以倫比的精緻美食 15

18 hot talk 黃金凝露 Native to the Mediterranean, olives not only provide a naturally savoury, flavour-packed fruit, but a luscious golden oil that is used all over the world. 橄欖原產於地中海, 不僅是味道豐富 容易入口的水果, 更可以製成甜美 金黃色的油, 深受全球各地的廚師和食家歡迎 The popularity of olive oil and the knowledge of its benefits have spread well beyond the Med, and numerous chefs, be they of Mediterranean origin or otherwise, have made it an essential part of their repertoire. With family roots in Naples, right on the Mediterranean Sea, Fabrizio Napolitano, executive chef at Italian restaurant Goccia, considers olive oil an essential ingredient in Neapolitan cuisine. Olive oil plays a central and defining role in the Mediterranean diet. High in fish, vegetables, grains and olive oil, and low in red meat and other fats, it has been hailed as the answer to maintaining low levels of cholesterol and preventing coronary diseases. Ironically, Spain and Italy, two of the largest nations in the Mediterranean, have reported a decline in popularity of the region s traditional diet, where economic and cultural pressures have pushed people towards cheaper, faster and more refined foods that are in direct opposition with their wholesome traditions. I believe [the Mediterranean diet] is the best, Napolitano says, it is the most balanced, and includes the use of raw ingredients like vegetables, with their skins on, olive oil, which has good cholesterol, seafood, etc. 橄欖油廣受歡迎, 其好處更是人所共知 無論地中海地區抑或是其他地方的廚師, 都覺得橄欖油是烹調藝術中不可或缺的一部分 Fabrizio Napolitano 是意大利餐廳 Goccia 的行政總廚, 其家族來自地中海的那不勒斯 他就認為橄欖油是 那不勒斯菜的真諦 橄欖油在地中海菜中起著關鍵的作用 地中海菜以魚 蔬菜 穀物和橄欖油為主, 紅肉和其他高脂肪食物並不多, 被喻為是維持低膽固醇和防止冠狀動脈疾病的膳食之選 但令人諷刺的是, 西班牙和意大利這兩個地中海最大的國家, 據稱卻有摒棄其飲食傳統的趨勢 由於經濟和文化壓力, 人們越益追求較便宜 較快速和較精緻的食物, 而這些新的飲食選擇往往有違地中海菜的健康傳統 Napolitano 指出 : 我認為地中海飲食是最好和最均衡的飲食選擇, 當中食材包括連皮的蔬菜 含大量 好 膽固醇的橄欖油和海鮮等 不久以前, 人們認為所有的脂肪和油都是對身體有害, 會引致心臟疾病 高膽固醇和其他各種現代健康的問題, 但很快人們就發現到橄欖油是一大例外 橄欖油主要是油酸, 這種單不飽和脂肪酸可以引發 Napolitano 所指的 好膽固醇 的產生 此外, 橄欖油還含有維生素 D 等抗氧化劑, 所以實在可以稱得上是一種 超級食品 西班牙餐前小吃酒吧 22 Ships 的主廚 Matt Bishop 補充 : 16

19 hot talk Not long ago, all fats and oils were seen to be harmful for the body the cause of heart disease, high cholesterol and a gamut of other modern health issues, but soon, olive oil emerged the anomalous hero. Consisting mostly of oleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid that triggers the production of the good cholesterol of which Napolitano speaks, olive oil also has antioxidants like Vitamin D, cementing its status as a super food. Matt Bishop, head chef at tapas bar 22 Ships, adds that olive oil makes [one] feel sated and tends to make you eat less and have fewer sugar cravings this naturally encourages individuals to have a healthy, balanced diet. Health, however, is not the only reason for which chefs use olive oil. One of the qualities of olive oil is that it s a very delicate ingredient, says Napolitano, it makes a dish complete. One of the easiest ways to finish up a dish with olive oil is by drizzling and dipping. Shane Osborn, head chef at modern European restaurant St Betty, likes to generously drizzle the oil over slices of ripe ox heart tomatoes sitting on top of warm toasted sour dough, sprinkled with sea salt and black pepper. It s one of the simplest things to make, but also the best. Similarly, Bishop s preferred eating method is bread with olive oil, so that the true taste of olive oil isn t affected by other ingredients. Of course, olive s golden nectar can go well beyond these humble uses. At St Betty, Osborn poach[es] Tasmanian sea trout in a very high quality extra virgin olive oil... Using this oil has two signification advantages: first, it has peppery citrus flavours which works perfectly with the fish and second, it keeps the fish very moist when cooking. Napolitano does it too: Artichokes for example, [poaching gives] a perfect consistency and a really flavourful vegetable. Nearly half the dishes at 22 Ships employ olive oil, including the popular dessert of olive oil brioche, chocolate ganache, sea salt and pistachio. 橄欖油能使人飽肚, 往往令你少吃一些, 攝入較少的糖份 這自然就能推動人們培養健康 均衡飲食的習慣 但是, 健康並不是廚師使用橄欖油的唯一原因 Napolitano 解釋 : 橄欖油的過人之處在於它是一種非常精緻的食材, 能為一道菜錦上添花 完成了一道菜後, 最簡單的點綴方法就是灑上幾滴橄欖油 Shane Osborn 是新派歐洲菜餐廳 St Betty 的主廚, 他喜歡在 幾片成熟牛心蕃茄和烤酸麵包上灑許多的橄欖油, 再撒以海鹽和黑胡椒, 這是最簡單卻又最美味的菜式之一 同樣地,Bishop 的最愛是 橄欖油麵包, 由此可見, 橄欖油的真味是不會受到其他食材所影響的 當然, 橄欖油還有一些更出人意表的用途 在 St Betty,Osborn 會 把塔斯曼尼亞海鱒魚浸在非常優質的特級初榨橄欖油當中 這樣做有兩個好處 : 首先, 其辛辣的柑橘口味與海鱒魚是完美的配搭 ; 其次, 當烹調時鱒魚仍能保持濕潤 Napolitano 也有自己的一套 : 例如, 把朝鮮薊浸在橄欖油中, 就能使蔬菜保持高度的一致性和鮮味 22 Ships 近一半的菜式 都會使用橄欖油, 其中包括廣受歡迎的甜點, 例如橄欖油布里歐修麵包 巧克力甘那許 海鹽和開心果 至於在一些創新菜式中, 廚師曾經嘗試過將橄欖油冷凍 Napolitano 就曾創製橄欖油雪糕, 或將橄欖油輕抹在生吞拿魚片上 ; 至於 Osborn, 則曾 在夏天時將橄欖油冷凍, 在製作冷番茄清湯時放在上面, 還試過製作 山莓開心果橄欖油雪糕 Osborn 甚至進一步 使用一款名為 Ab-Zorbit 的麥芽糊精製作橄欖油粉 這種澱粉可以吸收食物中的脂肪, 並創造出許多不同的粉末, 在前衛的美食實驗中使用 橄欖油的味道 質地和質量不盡相同 在選擇橄欖時,Napolitano 建議應先 嘗試瞭解用途是甚麼 海鮮需要較輕質的油, 你不會想其味道壓倒海鮮的鮮味 例如, 來自 Liguria 的橄欖油就太強了 較重身的油比較配合味道較重的菜式, 例如烤肉,Tuscany 或意大利南部的橄欖油就是不錯的選擇 In a more innovative spin, chefs have tried freezing the oil Napolitano has made olive oil-cream and shaved it over tuna carpaccio, while Osborn has frozen it and then shaved it over chilled tomato consommé in the summer, and made olive oil ice-cream for a mille feuille of raspberries and pistachios. Osborn pushes the envelope further and make[s] olive oil powder using a product called Ab-Zorbit, a maltodextrin, which is a food starch that absorbs fats, used to create many of the powders that one now sees in avantgarde gastronomy. 17

20 hot talk Olive oils vary in flavour, texture and quality. When choosing an olive oil, Napolitano suggests try[ing] to understand what the use of oil is. Seafood needs a gentle oil, you don t want to overpower the dish, an oil from Liguria [for example] is not too aggressive a robust oil will better suit a flavourful dish like grilled meat, such as oil from Tuscany or the south [of Italy]. For finishing seafoods and salads, he uses an extra virgin oil. When needed in larger quantities, such as panfrying, both Napolitano and Osborn have pomace oil handy. As Osborn explains, pomace oil is made from the pulp of the olives after the first and second pressing, and it s also cheaper, says Napolitano. In general, however, Napolitano says, olive oil is very gentle, not for hardcore prep it s good for emulsions (combining oil with another liquid) in order to get a perfect seasoning. Most chefs don t prefer using olive oil for harsher preparations like deep-frying, and many quote its lower smoke point. Interestingly, the Institute of Shortening and Edible Oils, a trade association representing the refiners of edible fats and oils in the United States, puts the smoke point of olive oil at 420 degrees Fahrenheit (around 215 degrees Celcius), which isn t any lower than most other cooking oils. While the jury s still out on that one, Osborn raises an important yet simple concern good olive oil is very expensive, which is reason enough for most to use it with care. Cooking methods aren t the only concern. Olive oil is a fresh product, says Osborn. Light, heat and oxygen are a delicate oil s worst enemies. Osborn suggests buying small bottles and keeping the lid on the bottle, to minimise oxidation. It should also be kept away from light and intense heat, such as in an opaque bottle or a cooler corner of the kitchen. Osborn adds, unlike wine, the flavour of olive oil does deteriorate over time. But like wine, the place of origin and variety of olive are important factors that affect the taste of the resulting oil. Napolitano is loyal to his native Italy, preferring a blend of taggiasche and leccine olives, I think that is perfect for seafood, it s gentle but at the same time has character. My favourite varieties of olive oils are made from Picholine olives in France or the Arbequina olives from Spain, says Osborn. Bishop uses Arbequina oil for everything as its relatively milder flavour means it won t overpower other ingredients. He considers it the best fruity, silky and it isn t greasy. 對於最後灑在海鮮和沙律上的油, 他會使用特級初榨橄欖油 而在煎東西時需大量的油,Napolitano 和 Osborn 會準備好橄欖果渣油 Osborn 解釋說 : 橄欖果渣油是用第一和第二次按壓時的橄欖果漿所製成的 ; 而 Napolitano 更補充說這種油比較便宜 然而, 在一般情況下,Napolitano 說 : 橄欖油是非常溫和的, 而不是一種很重口味的食材 橄欖油可以和另一些液體食材加以配搭, 成為完美的調味料 大多數廚師都不喜歡用橄欖油來進行油炸, 原因是其燃點較低 有趣的是, 酥油和食用油研究所 (Institute of Shortening and Edible Oils) 這個美國食用油脂煉油廠商會的研究指出, 橄欖油的燃點為 420 華氏 ( 約 215 攝氏 ), 比對其他大多數烹飪食油並不算低 雖然人們對此仍莫衷一是, 但 Osborn 提出了重要而簡單的原因 : 優質的橄欖油是非常昂貴的, 所以不應浪費 烹調方法並不是唯一的考慮點 Osborn 指出 : 橄欖油是新鮮的產品, 光 熱和氧氣是其最大的敵人, 所以他建議應 購買小瓶的, 並經常蓋上蓋子, 以盡量減少氧化 此外, 還應遠離光線和高熱 例如, 儲存於不透明的瓶子中或廚房的陰涼角落 Osborn 表示 : 與葡萄酒不同, 橄欖油的味道是會隨著時間變差的 但是與酒一樣, 橄欖的產地和種類也是重要的因素, 會影響到橄欖油的味道 Napolitano 鍾情於其祖家意大利的產品, 偏好以 的比例混合 taggiasche 和 leccine 橄欖 我認為這是海鮮的完美配搭, 既溫和, 且極具個性 Osborn 則說 : 我最喜歡由法國 Picholine 橄欖或西班牙 Arbequina 橄欖所製成的橄欖油 Bishop 則認為 Arbequina 橄欖油是 百搭, 由於其味道溫和, 所以不會搶去其他食材的鮮味 他認為 Arbequina 這種橄欖油是 最完美的, 有果香 輕滑又不油膩 Bishop 是橄欖油的真正擁躉, 除了用作煮食外, 在剃鬚時也會使用橄欖油, 並認為它非常貼服 舒適 A true devotee, Bishop uses of olive oil don t stop at cooking: sometimes I use it to get that clean, close, comfortable shave. 18

21 hot talk GRADES OF The International Olive Council provides standards and a platform for olive and olive oil producers and consumers worldwide. In the gradation and labelling of olive oil, the defining factors are percentage of oleic acid (fatty acids) and extraction method. Terms such as pure, cold-pressed and light have no significance in these official definitions, and are often recognised as mere marketing terminology. In particular, it s interesting to note that the popular term cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil is somewhat tautological, as any heat applied to the production process will damage the olive oil to the extent that it can no longer be defined as virgin. 橄欖油的等級 國際橄欖油理事會為橄欖和橄欖油生產商以至世界各地的消費者提供了一個標準和平台 在橄欖油的評級和標籤方面, 決定性因素是油酸 ( 脂肪酸 ) 的百分比和提取方法 在這些官方的定義中, 純正, 冷榨 和 輕質 等詞語其實並無意義, 它們通常被認為僅僅是營銷的術語而已 值得一提的是, 冷榨特級初榨橄欖油 的表達有所矛盾, 因為生產過程中使用的熱力會損壞橄欖油, 所以不能再被界定為初榨 Refined Olive Oil 精煉橄欖油 Virgin Olive Oil 初榨橄欖油 Includes extra virgin, virgin and ordinary virgin, extracted by physical (mechanical or manual) means that doesn t alter the oil (such as heat damage), and whose production processes consist only of washing, decantation, centrifugation and filtration. The oleic acid content ranges from 0.8% to 3.3%. 包括特級初榨 初榨和普通初榨 這些橄欖油使用的是物理 ( 機械或手工 ) 的方法, 並不會對油有任何改變 ( 例如熱損傷 ), 而其生產過程中只包括清洗, 傾析 離心和過濾提取 油酸的含量範圍是 0.8% 至 3.3% Olive Pomace Oil 橄欖果渣油 The extraction method is chemical rather than physical, and the oleic acid content is no more than 0.3%. 使用化學而非物理的提取方法, 油酸的含量不超過 0.3% Olive Oil 橄欖油 A combination of refined olive oil and virgin olive oil, with oleic acid content of no more than 1%. 精煉橄欖油和初榨橄欖油的混合油, 油酸含量不超過 1% Pomace is the ground flesh and pits of olives left after pressing. Pomace oil is the blend of refined (chemically extracted) olive pomace oil and virgin olive oil, with oleic acid content of no more than 1%. 果渣是按壓後所分離出來的果肉 果渣油是精煉 ( 化學提取 ) 橄欖果渣油和初榨橄欖油的混合油, 油酸含量不超過 1% 19

22 chef s talk Italian, served chilled 在水中尋靜的意藉廚師 With his boyish looks, you d hardly expect that Giuliano Berta is the Executive Chef of one of Kuala Lumpur s top Italian restaurants, Garibaldi Italian Restaurant and Bar. From Michelin-starred kitchens in Europe, to luxurious resorts in Bali, Berta shows that hard work and an incessant desire to learn always pays off. Giuliano Berta 的外表相當年青, 有點難以想像他是吉隆坡頂級意大利餐廳 Garibaldi Italian Restaurant and Bar 的行政總廚 Berta 無論是在歐洲的米芝蓮星級餐廳, 抑或是在印尼峇里的豪華度假村工作, 都展示了其不懈的努力, 而熱衷學習新事物的精神常常令他獲益良多 How did you become a chef? The main reason was because my mother was very good at cooking. With my brother, I used to play with food while she was cooking, observing her. My most adventurous dish, was bread spread with peach jam and covered with capers. It was horrible! My mother was busy with her friends so I made it myself. I was four years old. What would be your advice to young chefs? Never stop being curious. Always look for something that keeps you interested. The best way to learn or do anything is to like it. You need to be curious and adventurous. Afterwards, when you need to face a business, you need to be more careful because you need to serve guests, and not all of them might not be as adventurous [as you], but at least you need to put your heart, your passion in what you do. Going back to the classics is quite easy, you learn that in school or in the workplace, but the X-factor should come from you. 你是怎樣成為廚師的? 主要原因是我媽媽很會煮東西 小時候, 當她煮菜的時候, 我總會和哥哥在一旁, 一邊把玩食物 一邊看看她如何煮菜 有一次, 我想到了一道極具創意的小食 : 蜜桃果醬多士, 再把續隨子放在上面 簡直難吃極了! 當時因為媽媽十分忙碌, 要招呼許多朋友, 所以我就想出了這種 美食! 當年我只有四歲 對於年青的廚師, 你有甚麼忠告? 經常保持一顆好奇的心 經常發掘一些使你感到有趣的事物 你要愛上一種東西, 才能好好的學習它 你需要保持好奇心, 又敢於冒險 但當你創業之後, 就要比較謹慎, 因為你需要服務客人, 從他們的角度出發, 而並非所有客人都是 像你 一樣喜歡冒險的 但至少你需要投入其中, 熱愛烹飪 回歸基本並不困難, 因為你在烹飪學校或工作的餐廳中都學到了不少經典菜式, 但關鍵的元素其實是來自你自己 20

23 chef s talk Tell us about your role. I do many things. Since we opened, I was the chef of the restaurant, then I was also the operations manager, facing different aspects of the restaurant, including kitchen, floor, marketing. I m involved a little bit in everything. image: bensfoodtravel.blogspot.hk What is the most challenging thing about your job? The most challenging thing in my role is to run operations. The restaurant is big, it s actually two outlets one is casual, one is Italian fine dining. They are quite different and serve different clientele, yet they must communicate and work together. It s a big job, there are many staff to manage, many problems to face, but it s a lot of fun. Is it essential for chefs nowadays to have international exposure? Absolutely, yes. Today, the market is global. Sometimes people take the airplane two or three times a week! They want to experience things from all around the world. If you want to be complete, you need to know a little bit about every culture around the world, and also how to handle [guests from] different cultures. When you become responsible [for more aspects of a restaurant] you ll find that managing staff in England will be different from managing staff in Asia, or America. Culture and religion influence the mindset of people. How difficult is it to get Italian ingredients in Kuala Lumpur? Getting Italian ingredients in KL is not that difficult. Somehow, we are able to find what we want. In Malaysia, once you find the connection, you can get a bit of everything. How do you relax? Going on holidays. I like to go snorkelling, probably my next goal is scuba diving. Water is an element I find myself comfortable in, it gives me peace. What is one thing you must eat when you go back to Italy? My mama s dishes, but also something that might sound politically incorrect a steak of horse meat. Horse is midway between beef and game meats. I love the taste. In Italy, it s not that strange to eat horse, maybe it is with the younger generation! 請談一下你在餐廳中所扮演的角色 我負責很多東西 自從我們開業以來, 我都是擔任廚師, 後來我也曾經做過營運經理, 需要處理餐廳不同方面的事務, 包括廚房 樓面和市場推廣 事實上, 我每樣東西也參與其中 你工作最具挑戰的部分是甚麼? 最具挑戰是在營運方面 餐廳很大, 而事實上, 我們有兩個部份 一部分是普通用餐區, 而另一部分則提供高級意大利餐飲 它們是頗為不同的, 所服務的食客也有一定差異 但兩個區域需要緊密溝通, 衷誠合作 這項工作相當繁重, 我需要管理許多員工, 會發生不少問題 ; 但當中也充滿樂趣 在今時今日的餐飲業裡, 廚師是否必定要有國際經驗? 絕對需要 我們身處一個國際化的餐飲市場 有些人甚至一個星期需要乘搭兩 三次飛機! 他們往往希望感受全世界林林總總的東西 如果你想工作得全面的話, 就需要對各國文化都有一些認識, 以及知道怎樣服務來自不同文化的 食客 此外, 當你需要負責 餐廳裡的更多範疇 時, 就會發現管理英格蘭的員工, 和管理亞洲或美國的員工其實相當不同 事實上, 文化和宗教會對人們的想法有著很大的影響 在吉隆坡, 要取得意大利食材困難嗎? 在吉隆坡要找意大利食材並不是那麼困難 我們想要甚麼, 其實都可以拿到 在馬來西亞, 如果你有相關的聯繫, 幾乎是甚麼都可以辦到的 你閒時會做些甚麼? 去旅行 我很喜歡浮潛, 下一步我希望能夠參與水肺潛水 我在水中感到很自在, 心裡很平靜 你回到意大利時, 有甚麼東西是一定會吃的? 我媽媽煮的菜, 特別是馬肉扒 有些人可能感到不自在, 認為我們不應吃馬肉 馬肉的口感介乎牛肉及野味肉之間 我個人就非常喜歡 在意大利, 吃馬肉並不是甚麼稀奇古怪的事, 特別是對年輕一代而言! 21

24 slice of the past 不同形態的美味麵食 In Italy, the simple combination of flour, water and sometimes egg, comes in myriad renditions. Each region has its own native shapes, and with them, their own myths and legends. 在意大利, 只要簡單地將麵粉 水和雞蛋 ( 可有可無 ) 混合在一起, 就可以炮製出各種美味的麵食 意大利每個地區的麵食都有各自的形態, 並伴隨著神話和傳說 These flat, widestrips are said to originate from Emilia-Romagna and are attributed to Lucrezia Borgia, an Italian noblewoman who lived during the Renaissance. She was known to be a great beauty, with hazel eyes, long, flowing blonde hair and walked with infinite grace. The daughter of Pope Alexander VI, Lucrezia was married off three times, all to men of power, presumably for her family s political ambitions. Her third and final marriage was to Alfonso d Este, the Duke of Ferrara. It was at this wedding that one of the Duke s chefs noticed the Duchess-to-be s hair, arranged in a beautiful golden bun, and for the wedding banquet, created tagliatelle in her honour. 這種扁平 寬闊的麵條據稱是源自 Emilia-Romagna, 並與文藝復興時期意大利女貴族 Lucrezia Borgia 有關 她以美麗的容貌聞名, 擁有深褐色的眼睛, 長而輕柔的金髮, 言行舉止都散發著優雅的氣息 她是教皇亞歷山大六世的女兒, 結過三次婚, 夫婿皆為有權位之名士, 可能是覬覦女方家族的政治影響力 她的第三任亦是最後一任丈夫 Alfonso d Este 為 Ferrara 公爵 據說在兩人的婚禮當日, 公爵的一位廚師留意到, 即將成為女公爵的 Lucrezia Borgia 把閃閃生輝的金髮盤成一團, 所以他在晚宴期間創作了 Tagliatelle 向她致敬 Along the coast of Italy, little curled shells inspired chefs to create paguri. Later, some noticed that these shells also resembled the long skirts that the women of the Italian courts wore, and the name was changed to castellane, meaning castle dwellers. Traditionally, castellane pasta is served with a dairy-based or fish-based sauce. 意大利的海岸佈滿了彎彎的橢圓形貝殼, 而這些貝殼啟發了廚師製作 Paguri 後來, 有人留意到這些貝殼也有點像意大利宮廷仕女的長裙, 所以 Paguri 的名稱改為 Castellane, 意指 居住在城堡的人 傳統上,Castellane 是配以奶類或魚類為主的醬汁 22

25 slice of the past These little meat-filled dumplings are often associated with a medieval legend about the Roman goddess of love, Venus. After settling a war between Bologna and Modena, Venus, Mars and Bacchus stayed the night at an inn in the outskirts of Bologna. In the morning, while Venus was still sleeping, Mars and Bacchus left the inn to patrol the surrounding area. When she woke up, Venus thought her companions had abandoned her and went to enquire with the innkeeper. The innkeeper went to find out, then walked to Venus s room to inform her. However, when he stepped in he saw Venus was naked. The innkeeper was so shocked by her beauty that he ran away immediately, but he could not forget her perfect navel, and thus made a pasta to look just like it. 對於這種以肉類作為餡料的雲吞, 許多人認為其源自羅馬愛神維納斯 (Venus) 的神話 據稱, 在擺平了 Bologna 與 Modena 之間的戰爭後, 維納斯和其他兩位神祇 Mars 和 Bacchus 在 Bologna 近郊的旅館留宿 第二天清晨, 當維納斯仍在熟睡之際, 其他兩位神祇離開旅館到附近巡視 維納斯醒來時, 以為兩人離她而去, 便向旅館負責人查問 負責人外出查看後, 走到維納斯的房間向她匯報 他甫步入房間便看到維納斯一絲不掛躺在床上 維納斯的美貌令他驚惶失措得急步離去 他久久不能忘懷愛神的美貌, 所以創造了 Tortellini 以作紀念 With a rather morbid name meaning priest-strangler, this irregularly-shaped pasta comes with an equally nasty story. It is said that during the Renaissance, Romagna was under the rule of the Papal state. The region was already suffering from poverty, as most of the lands were swamps and food was scare. Nonetheless the Pope s rule was unsympathetic and oppressive, making lives extremely difficult for the local people. Anti-clerical sentiments were strong. At restaurants, clergymen even ate free of charge, and legend has it that the thick, ragged strings of strozzapreti were created in the hopes that priests would die from choking on the dish. 這種麵食有個頗為奇怪的名字, 意指 扼殺教士的東西 這種形狀不一的麵食的起源也有點齷齪 據稱在文藝復興時期,Romagna 受羅馬教皇所管治, 該地區相當貧窮, 原因是該地大部份皆為沼澤, 而且食物相當缺乏 但教皇的統治相當高壓, 而且不理人民的死活 當地人的生活極度艱苦, 反教廷的活動因而非常活躍 教士當時甚至可以到餐館免費大吃大喝, 據稱創造猶如繩子一樣粗糙的 Strozzapreti, 是希望教士在進食時會不小心嗆死 image: corzetti_babette-babettefz.blogspot.com Genoa and the region of Liguria probably has one of the most unusual pasta shapes: corzetti. This pasta resembles stamped coins and even displays family crests. In the early Middle Ages, serving corzetti with the crest was a display of wealth and status because designing and completing each piece required great deal of effort (from servants, of course). A handmade wooden stamp was used to emboss the dough. When cooked, the little divots created through embossing held the sauce. To this day, some shops in Genoa still sell the wooden stamps emblazoned with flowers, trees, and other designs. The earliest cookbooks of the 18th Century paired corzetti with meat sauce, but now there are recipes that call for Genoa s famed pesto. Genoa 及 Liguria 地區的 Corzetti 可能是形狀最奇怪的麵食之一 這種麵食像印有錢幣圖案一樣, 有時甚至會展示半身雕像 在中世紀初期, 印有半身雕像的 Corzetti 能顯示主人家的財富和地位, 原因是製作這種特色麵食需要大量人力 ( 當然是由僕人代勞 ) 麵團上的花紋是由人手製造的木印章所壓成 在煮食時, 花紋上的紋理可以沾上醬汁 時至今日,Genoa 部份店舖仍有售賣這些木印章, 刻有花朵 樹木及其他圖案 18 世紀的早期烹飪書建議 Corzetti 配以肉汁一起吃, 但現時的食譜則推薦使用 Genoa 著名的青醬汁 23

26 talk of the town Pie Party VOL Group, behind such concepts as Ultraviolet and Mr and Mrs Bund, continues its Shanghai expansion with 薄餅熱潮 Paul Bocuse 得意弟子 Gilles Reinhardt 將於 H One 亮相 Y2C2, a casual outlet serving modern European bites in a hip atmosphere. A New York pizza revolution Y2C2 紐約式薄餅新浪潮正悄悄席捲 is quietly taking over Hong 5/F, Bldg. 2, 579 Waima Lu 香江, 最新一波來自食家讚不 Kong. Newest on the block Shanghai, China 絕口的 Motorino, 這間薄餅店 is the critically acclaimed 被譽為紐約最佳薄餅店之一 Motorino, often touted as one of the Big Apple s best pizzas. Slightly delayed by issues with the custom-built oven, the Hong Kong branch has finally opened. Motorino 14 Shelley Street Central, HK hongkong Small is the new black Paul Bocuse s Protégé Gilles Reinhardt at H One From 25 April to 4 May, Gilles Reinhardt, the protégé of Paul Bocuse and the executive chef of Bocuse s three-michelin-starred restaurant L Auberge du Pont de Collonges, will be showcasing a splendid Lyoninspired menu at H one, ifc Central. H One Shop 4008, Podium Level 4, 雖然早前專人訂製的焗爐略有延誤, 但最後 Motorino 香港分店總算順利開業 Motorino 香港中環些利街 14 號 hongkong 小即是美 Yardbird 的成功經驗印證了一點 : 只要經營得宜, 獨立食店仍可在香港站穩陣腳 Yardbird 團隊的最新一員是 Ronin, 雖然面積較 Yardbird 4 月 25 日至 5 月 4 日,Paul Bocuse 得意弟子兼 Bocuse 旗下米芝蓮三星餐廳 L Auberge du Pont de Collonges 行政總廚 Gilles Reinhardt 將在中環國際金融中心 H One 一顯身手, 烹調精緻不凡的里昂法國菜 H One 香港中環金融街 8 號國際金融中心商場 4 樓 4008 號店 ifc Mall 8 Finance Street, Central, HK 更小, 但菜式卻更見心思, 而且提供訂座服務 Ronin HOFEX - 國際食品及飲料 酒店 餐廳及餐飲設備 供應及服務展覽會 HOFEX 香港中環安和里 8 號 This biannual food and The success of Hong Kong s Yardbird has shown that independent eateries can survive in the city if they do it right. The team s new joint, Ronin, is even smaller in size but has a more ambitious menu, and perhaps best of all, takes reservations. Ronin 8 On Wo Lane Central, HK hospitality trade show brings China and the rest of the Asia-Pacific region together with the rest of the world, with exhibitors showing hospitality equipment, supplies, services, technology, food and beverage. In addition, there will be sectors dedicated to wine and spirits, coffee and tea and hospitality IT. It will also host a number of competitions. 上海歐洲美食新成員 Paul Pairet 這位名廚兼餐飲業經營者多年來立足上海, 最近銳意大展拳腳, 其公司 VOL 集團繼 Ultraviolet 及 Mr and Mrs Bund 等概念餐廳後, 如今在上海開設悠閒式餐廳 Y2C2, 在時髦氣氛中提供新派歐洲美食 這個兩年一度的飲食酒店業展覽會匯集中國 亞太其他地區以至全球各地的業界人士 一眾參展商將會展出酒店業各類設備 用品 服務 科技 美食及飲品 此外場內亦設有美酒 茶和咖啡以及酒店業科技產品的專區, 並將舉行多項比賽 5 月 7 日至 10 日香港會議展覽中心 Shanghai Boom Long-time Shanghai-based chef and restaurateur Paul Pairet seems unstoppable 7-10 May Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre Y2C2 中國上海外馬路 579 號 2 棟 5 樓 these days. His company, 24

27 talk of the globe Burger Town World Street Food Congress 漢堡之王 全球街頭美食節 Legendary New York burger chain Shake Shack is set to open its first overseas outlet in London this summer. The highly coveted burgers have a cult following, and all foodie eyes are on whether Londoners will embrace this burger as Americans have. Shake Shack London Covent Garden, 24 Market Building, The Piazza London, England WC2E 8RD A bad week for restaurants KF Seetoh, the man behind Makansutra, Singapore s lauded street food guide, is putting street food under the spotlight in a X-day event in Singapore. Expect exhibitors from all across the world showing off their tasty, down-home fare. 31 May-9 June F1 Pit Building, Paddock 1 Republic Boulevard Singapore 紐約的傳奇漢堡連鎖店 Shake Shack 即將在倫敦開設首間海外分店, 其漢堡包向來有口皆碑, 深受擁躉喜愛 Shake Shack 能否在倫敦掀起媲美紐約的熱潮, 一眾食家將拭目以待 餐飲業不幸一週 KF Seetoh 是新加坡著名街頭美食指南 Makansutra 的出版人, 他將在 5 月 31 日至 6 月 9 日在新加坡舉行美食節, 集合形形色色的街頭美食 來自全球各地的參展商將聚首一堂, 帶來他們道地可口的街頭美食 International Coffee Expo & World Barista Championship 國際咖啡博覽暨全球咖啡師大賽 The first week of March was not a good one in the world of fine dining. First, news broke that Noma, the World s Number 1 restaurant (on the World s 50 Best rankings) caused sick tummies with a norovirus outbreak. Secondly, San Francisco slow food stalwart Chez Panisse sustained a devasting fire, which has caused the restaurant to close. A date for reopening has yet to be announced at time of publishing. The biggest coffee event of the year will be held in one of the world s most underrated coffee capitals, Melbourne. Professional baristas, roasters and other caffeine fiends and specialists will gather for the Championship as well as an array of the finest machinery and beans in the world right now May Melbourne Showgrounds Epsom Road, Ascot Vale VIC 3032, Australia 三月份首星期對高級餐飲業似乎不甚順利 首先全球 50 大最佳餐廳之首的 Noma 據報爆發諾如病毒事故, 多名食客用膳後不適 另外美國三藩市提倡慢食的名店 Chez Panisse 亦遭遇祝融之災, 餐廳被迫休業, 執筆之際仍未公佈何時重開 這是本年度最大型的咖啡盛事, 將於 5 月 23 至 26 日舉行, 地點更是墨爾本這個往往受人忽略的咖啡之都 屆時專業咖啡師 烘焙師和其他咖啡愛好者和專家將齊集角逐殊榮, 同場亦會展出各式各樣當今全球最頂級的咖啡器材和咖啡豆 25

28 sweet talk 甜美生活 LA DOLCE VITA From playing with pans in his mother s kitchen to the Olympics, to numerous Michelinstarred and highly acclaimed restaurants across Europe and Asia, and now the hip W Hotel, Andrea Bonaffini journey has taken him from one sweet spot to the next. He translates his love and passion into delicious and aesthetically considered edible art. Andrea Bonaffini 小時候最愛流連在媽媽的廚房把玩煮食用具, 長大後則為奧運會的運動員烹調美食, 足跡更遍及歐洲和亞洲多間米芝蓮星級餐廳, 而現時出掌 W Hotel 的糕點部 甜點是他成長經歷的主調 : 他將自己對糕點的喜愛和熱情化作色香味美的藝術品 Tell us a bit about yourself. I m from Turin. My family is from Sicily, and I studied hotel management and cooking school in Turin. My mum said that when I was young, I used to play with pans. My mum is also a really good cook, so I think I get the patience from her. Her cooking is very Italian. Did you always want to be a pastry chef? Actually, I started in the kitchen when I was 15. I worked there to make some extra money, you know, kids want to buy stuff. For the first year I was a commis, then later, they put me in pastry. It was more fun, I liked it a lot. The kitchen is already very rushed and busy, for pastry, you have more time to focus on one plate. You can take your time because it s the end of the meal, and people are more relaxed. I started to work on weekends in the small restaurant near my home, and then I worked seasons during school breaks. I m a very artistic person. I like to paint in fact, I paint in my free time. Pastry is quite artistic, sometimes I paint on the plates with chocolate or other ingredients. How did you arrive in Asia? After working at the Olympics in Turin, I had the opportunity to go to Japan. I was there for two years, and it was a beautiful experience. I think some of the highest quality pastries are made in Japan. They re really precise, they use good products, I was very impressed. Even if you go into a small shop [randomly] on the street, you d still be wowed. 請介紹一下自己 我來自意大利的都靈 我的家族一直住在西西里島, 而我則在都靈學習酒店管理和烹飪 媽媽說我自小最愛玩煮食用具 她也是一位優秀的廚師, 我的耐性理應是拜她所賜 她的菜式極具意大利色彩 你是否自少就夢想成為一名糕點廚師? 其實, 我 15 歲便開始在廚房裡工作 小孩子總是想賺多點來買東買西 第一年我是廚房助理, 後來才到糕點部工作 製作糕點很有趣, 我非常喜歡 在廚房工作總是非常趕忙, 但在糕點部則有更多時間專注製作糕點 廚師可以好好掌握自己的時間, 因為甜點是用餐完畢後才享用, 客人往往比較輕鬆 我先在週末時在家附近的小餐廳工作, 後來則在學校假期時才上班 我充滿藝術氣息, 閒時喜歡畫畫 製作糕點也是一門藝術, 我喜歡用巧克力和其他材料在碟上繪畫 你為甚麼會來到亞洲? 於都靈完成奧運會的工作後, 我有機會到訪日本, 在當地逗留了兩年 這兩年的經驗非常美好 日本在糕點製作方面擁有極高的水平 他們的要求十分嚴謹, 選料極其上乘, 令我印象深刻 你只要在街上隨意步入一間小店, 也會驚歎其水準之高 26

29 sweet talk Many say that pastries are the realm of the French and the Japanese. As an Italian, how would you respond to that? Italians have always had a lot of competition with the French, be it soccer, food, or whatever, but I think, honestly, in every region of Italy you go to, you ll find many different desserts. Perhaps the French are better than us at promoting themselves. Italians stay in Italy, and do their own thing, but the French are really good at promoting their products. Say with cheese when people think of cheese they think France, but Italy has great cheeses as well. Turin is famous for chocolate, gianduiotto, hazelnuts, Sicily has cassata, and so on, there are a million Italian desserts! I don t know how to explain it, maybe it s because in Italy it s always hard to find someone who speaks English! Do you go back to Italy often? My grandpa lives in Sicily, so every five years or so, I visit him for a week. My family lives in Turin, and I always go back once a year. I see my good friends there, and my mum of course she will kill me if I don t see her! I like going back to Italy, to just enjoy simple things like a simple tomato pasta made by my mama. She also makes tiramisu, it s just, whoah. 許多人說法國和日本是糕點王國 作為意大利人, 你對此有何看法? 無論是足球 美食或其他方面, 意大利人總是喜歡與法國人一較高下 事實上, 你可在意大利不同地區品嘗各類甜點 法國人可能比較擅長推銷產品, 意大利人往往只在國內埋首工作, 而法國人會到處推廣產品 舉例而言, 當人們談及芝士時, 便會想起法國, 但意大利的芝士也不錯 此外, 都靈以巧克力 gianduiotto 和榛子聞名, 而西西里則有 cassata 蛋糕 所以, 意大利的甜品種類繁多! 我不明白當中原因, 可能是因為意大利人不大願意說英語吧! 你是否經常返回意大利? 我的祖父住在西西里, 所以約五年便會放假一星期探望他 我的家人則住在都靈, 我通常一年會回去一次 我會探望住在當地的不少好友, 當然還有我媽媽 假如我不探望她, 我便死定了! 我喜歡返回意大利, 單單就為了享用媽媽烹調的番茄意粉, 還有她的 tiramisu 蛋糕, 真是美味極了! 你媽媽還會製作甚麼糕點? 享用早點時, 媽媽還會製作非常傳統的蛋糕, 例如是 ciambellone tortaparadiso 或 tortamargherita, 這些是入口軟綿的牛油蛋糕 我爸爸總愛把這些蛋糕浸在牛奶內 What else does your mum bake? My mum makes very traditional cakes that we eat at breakfast, like ciambellone, tortaparadiso, or tortamargherita. These are light spongy butter cakes. My dad likes to dip them in his milk. 27

30 recipe TOFU, GIANDUJA, SESAME, RASPBERRY 豆腐 GIANDUJA 芝麻及覆盆子的完美配搭 The dessert is a combination of flavour and texture, the main ingredients was the tofu. To be honest I m not a big expert of tofu, and so after a quick search I decided to combine two types of cultures and cuisines, the China where I work for the past several years and Italy my beloved country of birth. I create a typical Italian dessert the Panna Cotta, replacing the cream with the tofu and add roasted sesame, combined with a Gianduja cream ( is typical sweet from Piedmont obtained from a mixing between chocolate and hazelnuts), and then hazelnut crumble to have some crispy part in the dessert. But then I still need some sour flavours to balance all flavours together so I added a raspberry powder, made by dehydration of fresh raspberry and last touch was a freshly grated of fresh lime to give freshness. In the end when I try it was a successful work and was very exciting. The combination of flavour and texture was perfect. The cake will be promoted at Sing Yin Cantonese Dining of W Hotel Hong Kong throughout the month of August and September. 這甜品的味道和口感非常豐富, 主要材料是豆腐 坦白說, 我並不是烹調豆腐的專家, 經過一番思索後, 決定融合中國和意大利的文化和美食精髓, 前者是我過去幾年工作之地, 後者則是我所愛的故鄉 我創製的是傳統意大利甜品 Panna Cotta, 並以豆腐取代忌廉, 加入烘香芝麻和 Gianduja 忌廉 ( 這是 Piedmont 的獨有甜食, 是用巧克力和榛子混和而成 ), 然後加入榛子碎增加甜品的脆香口感 由於酸味有助平衡各種味道, 因此我加添覆盆子粉, 這是從新鮮覆盆子脫水得來 最後再撒些新鮮青檸絲, 有助提升鮮味 完成後, 我嘗了一口, 認為是一道成功的甜品, 味道 口感相當豐富, 令人甚有驚喜 這款甜品將會於 8 月和 9 月在香港 W Hotel 的星宴中餐廳進行推廣 Tofu Panna Cotta 豆腐意式奶凍 Crumble Powder 甘寶混合物 Sesame Milk Sugar Gelatin Tofu Glycerin 芝麻奶糖魚膠豆腐甘油 80 g 克 300 g 克 30 g 克 10 g 克 200 g 克 10 g 克 Flour Vanilla stick Brown sugar Salt Butter Hazelnut 麵粉呍呢嗱莢黑糖鹽牛油榛子 100 g 克 ½ stlk 條 90 g 克 40 g 克 80 g 克 58 g 克 Gianduja Soft Cream Gianduja 軟忌廉 Chocolate Glucose Callebaut Hazelnut Praline Paste Mascarpone Cheese 朱古力葡萄糖榛子醬 瑪斯卡邦芝士 100 g 克 50 g 克 50 g 克 50 g 克 Raspberry Powder 覆盆子混合物 Sosa Dehydrated Raspberry Crispy Egg white Brown sugar Vanilla 脫水覆盆子脆脆 蛋白黑糖呍呢嗱 40 g 克 100 g 克 175 g 克 12 g 克 Concentrate Tofu 濃豆腐 Tofu Brown sugar 豆腐黑糖 100 g 克 15 g 克 ** Recipe is created by Chef Andrea Bonaffini of W Hotel Hong Kong ** 食譜由 W Hotel Hong Kong 的大廚 Chef Andrea Bonaffini 提供 28

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32 Publisher: Angliss Food Service is proud to represent the following brands for Greater China markets. We have offices in Hong Kong, China, Macau, Malaysia and Singapore to serve all food service and retail customers. Hong Kong & China Partners: Hong Kong Partners: China Partners: Own Brands: